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Tutorial – Make a 5 Minute Wristlet Key Fob!

Tutorial – Make a 5 Minute Wristlet Key Fob!

by | Jun 22, 2021 | My Makes

We are super excited to have in stock this brilliant key fob hardware! We have quick and super simple tutorials. These are TWO WAYS to make a 5-minute wristlet key fob. These gorgeous stylish key fobs are AMAZING scrap busters!

We have a great selection of key fob hardware to choose from in ALL the colours! We’ve also got a brilliant bundle for you where you grab a pair of pliers and 12 assorted key fobs at a discount!

We show you how to make these key fobs in two ways:


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A Beginner’s Guide To Dressmaking Patterns

A Beginner’s Guide To Dressmaking Patterns

by | Jun 14, 2021 | My Makes, Product Guides, Tutorials

Are you intimidated by patterns? Not sure how to read a sewing pattern?

Confused by the back of the envelope? Not sure what the symbols mean?

We’ve got you covered!

Grab a cuppa, read on & let us demystify how to read a sewing pattern!

 

How to read a dressmaking pattern

How To Read A Sewing Pattern

 

To the uninitiated, a first glance at a sewing pattern can be daunting. Have a read through our top tips & feel more confident having a go!

 

How to read the back of a sewing pattern envelope

 

The back of the pattern envelope should be your first port of call.

It contains lots of essential information you will need to make your garment.

You’ll find fabric suggestions that will suit the pattern style, the amount of fabric you will need & all the required notions such as zips & buttons.

How to read the back of a pattern envelope

Inside the pattern envelope

 

Inside you’ll find various sheets of paper – these will you be your pattern pieces, your sewing instructions & also the pattern layout information to help you cut out your pattern pieces correctly.

 

Tips On Choosing Fabric

 

Choose a fabric that is mentioned in the “suggested fabrics” section on the outside of the pattern envelope.

If your chosen fabric has a pattern “direction” make sure you place your pattern pieces the correct way up or your fabric motif will appear upside down on your garment!

 

A Tip For Stripes – Make sure the stripes run the way you want them to in your finished garment when laying out your pattern pieces.

Motif Sizes – Ensure your fabric has appropriately sized motifs for your garment. For example, a child’s dress might look strange in a large statement floral fabric.

ALWAYS Pre-wash Your Fabric – Some fabrics will shrink. It is better to launder your fabrics first to save tears later! Wash your fabric how you intend to wash the finished garment.

 

Understand Sewing Pattern Symbols

 

 

Understanding Fabric Grain

 

Sewing patterns - The cutting line symbol

 

Sewing patterns - The fold line symbol

Understanding Sewing Pattern Symbols

Sewing patterns - The notches symbol
Sewing patterns - The Stitch line symbol
Sewing patterns - The Centre Front Line symbol
Sewing patterns - Darts symbol
Sewing patterns - Dots, squares, stars & triangle symbol

Understanding Sewing Pattern Symbols

Sewing patterns - Hip and Bust Point symbol
Sewing patterns - Adjustment Line symbol
Sewing patterns - Button Hole Marking symbol
Sewing patterns - Zip Marking symbol

Pattern Piece Layout

 

Your pattern will have a diagram similar to this which is showing you how to lay out your pattern pieces on your fabric.

Following this diagram will usually be the most economical layout when cutting your fabric.

 

There will usually be two layout guides – one for 44″ wide fabric & another for 60″ wide fabric.

Follow the appropriate layout for your chosen fabric’s width. There may also be a layout guide for your interfacing pieces.

Looking more closely at the diagram above you will see that pattern piece (2) needs to be cut twice as it appears twice on the cutting diagram. Once the pattern piece is cut with the right side facing up, the second time it is cut with the pattern piece facing down.

Can you see where this pattern piece is shaded by the dots? This indicates the pattern piece should be laid face down on your fabric. The unshaded pieces indicates your pattern piece is face up.

Pattern piece (1) is placed on the fabric fold – we will end up with 1 pattern piece double the size of the paper pattern piece.

Pattern piece (4) indicates only one thickness of fabric – can you see how the selvedges aren’t aligned? Again – pattern piece (4) is cut twice – once with the pattern piece is right side up and then once with the pattern piece right side down – remember the dots?

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How To Use Bondaweb

How To Use Bondaweb

by | Jun 9, 2021 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, My Makes, Product Guides, Tutorials

Imagine Bondaweb as the superhero of fabric glue, not your average, garden-variety adhesive. This bad boy is like double-sided sticky tape’s cooler, tougher cousin, ready to weld your fabrics together with the finesse of a seasoned blacksmith.

Let’s talk perks of Bondaweb, shall we?

  • This wonder adhesive plays it cool, literally. It won’t get clingy until you bring the heat.
  • Toss it in the wash at up to 60 degrees or give it a spa day with a dry clean. Bondaweb can handle it.
  • Dreaming of flawless appliqué? Bondaweb’s got your back. But hey, if appliqué’s not your jam, we’ve got a Pinwheel project that might just tickle your fancy.
  • Snip and clip those appliqué designs with the precision of a ninja, all thanks to Bondaweb’s stabilizing mojo.
  • That backing paper? It’s not just for show. Sketch your heart out, trace like a pro, and plot your world domination in pencil.

Words of Wisdom Before You Dive In:

  • Do a test run on some fabric scraps. Trust us, it’s better than a “whoops” moment on the real deal.

  • Pay attention, folks. Misuse Bondaweb and you’ll have a sticky mess with your iron and ironing board.

  • Your fabric needs to take the heat. If it can’t handle iron setting 3, it’s not the stage for Bondaweb’s talents.

Gather Your Arsenal:

  • Bondaweb

  • Cotton fabric

  • Thread

  • Pencil

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. For appliqué: Trace or draw around your design onto the smooth side of the Bondaweb using a pencil.

Important Note: Trace as a mirror image or the finished design will end up the wrong way round.

2. For appliqué: Rough cut around each shape, leaving a small border.

3. Spread a smooth-surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over an ironing board.

4. Lay the fabric wrong side up on the ironing board.

5. Place the Bondaweb on top of the fabric rough side down. For appliqué: align the object with the grain.

6. Lay a smooth-surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top and press for roughly 5 seconds, heat setting 2, no steam.

Then wait at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

7. Cut out the shape/ fabric accurately, cutting small details is easier with fine scissors or a small rotary cutter and cutting mat.

8. Peel off the backing paper and position the shape/ fabric onto the mount/ backing fabric.

9. Place right side up on a covered ironing board. Lay a smooth surfaced tea towel/ spare length of cotton over the top.

10. Dampen the cover fabric using the iron’s spray setting and press for roughly 10 seconds, heat setting 3.

Allow at least 30 minutes for the Bondaweb to cool and the glue to set.

11. For Appliqué: Sew around the edge of the shape and around any cut out elements (for example the centre of letters), 2mm from the edge.

(Hand sewn blanket stitch or machine zig zag stitch overlapping the edge of the letter and the surrounding fabric can also be used (length 0.5 to 1, width 3 to 4 depending on the finish required).

Trouble Shooting Tips For Bondaweb

If you find things aren’t going as smoothly as you’d hoped with Bondaweb here are some trouble shooting tips that might help:

  1. The Sticky Situation: If Bondaweb isn’t adhering properly, it’s probably playing hard to get. Solution: Check your iron’s heat setting. Bondaweb likes it hot, but not too hot. Ensure it’s on the correct setting (usually medium or as the Bondaweb instructions specify). Give it a little more time under the iron, but don’t get too steamy; moisture is not our friend here.
  2. Paper Won’t Peel Off: So, the backing paper decided it’s too attached to leave? Solution: Let it cool down more. If it’s still being clingy, gently score the edge with a pin to get the peeling started. Sometimes, all it needs is a little nudge.
  3. Bubbles and Wrinkles: Ended up with a Bondaweb masterpiece that looks more like a prune? Solution: This is usually a sign of too much heat or too much enthusiasm with the iron. Next time, use a gentle touch and ensure even heat. To fix, gently reheat the area and smooth out the wrinkles with the back of a spoon or re-iron with a protective cloth.
  4. It Stuck to the Iron/Ironing Board: Oops, went a bit rogue and missed the protective layer? Solution: Unplug the iron and let it cool. For the iron, use a dedicated iron cleaner or a soft cloth with vinegar (once it’s cool, of course). For the ironing board, gently scrape off what you can and cover the area with a cloth when ironing in the future.
  5. Fabric Discoloration: Your fabric lost its glow-up after Bondawebbing? Solution: This can happen with too much heat or incompatible fabric. Always test on a scrap first. If disaster strikes, consider covering the spot with an appliqué or decorative element. Remember, it’s not a mistake; it’s a creative opportunity.
  6. The Fabric Won’t Stick Together: If your fabrics are social distancing despite the Bondaweb, Solution: Check if you’ve applied it to the correct side and that you’ve used enough heat. Some fabrics are more stubborn than a cat in a bath. If it’s still not sticking, double-check that your Bondaweb isn’t past its prime. Yes, even adhesives have a shelf life.
  7. Changed Your Mind? If you’ve bonded something and then decided it’s all wrong, Solution: Bondaweb is pretty much a ’til death do us part’ situation once it’s set. However, you can sometimes gently reheat and carefully separate the fabrics. Be warned, it’s a delicate operation and might not always work. Consider this a lesson in commitment.

Remember, crafting is about the journey, not just crossing the finish line. Every misstep is a step towards mastering your craft! Embrace the chaos, learn from the Bondaweb battles, and keep on creating…

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3 Project Ideas Using Beguiled by Libs Elliott

3 Project Ideas Using Beguiled by Libs Elliott

by | Jun 1, 2021 | My Makes, Product Guides, Project Ideas, Tutorials, Zips

Libs Elliott's Beguiled fabric collection offers vibrant and unique designs, perfect for a variety of sewing projects. In this post, we showcase three creative ideas to inspire your next creation: a clear PVC vinyl zipper pouch, an eye mask, and the spacious Ella pouch. Each project includes detailed tutorials to guide you through the process. Dive into these fun and functional projects and add a touch of Beguiled to your handmade collection.

This post will be updated soon, please check back shortly

Sew Your Own: Half Circle Skirt

by | May 28, 2021 | Fabric, Interfacing and Interlining, My Makes, Project Ideas, Tutorials

If you are venturing into the world of dressmaking and feel ready to challenge yourself a bit further, a half circle skirt is a great next step. There are super useful skills and techniques to be learnt here, and step by step you will find yourself with something new to wear.

If you want to grow your confidence a little more 1st, why not try our quick elasticated waistband skirt tutorial. Whichever option you choose, you will be making something to measure and gaining valuable experience (as well as a nice outfit!).

A sewing project for adventurous beginners

 

You will learn:

    • How to use pattern template card
    • How to draft a pattern
    • How to insert an invisible zip
    • How to use waist shaper interfacing

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You will need:

Pattern template card

Cotton lawn fabric* (We used: Regency cotton lawn – Floral sprays on blue)

8” Invisible zip (we used: 8” Navy invisible zip)

Waist shaper* (we used: White waist shaper)

15mm seam tape (we used: white seam tape)

Thread (we used: Gutermann colour 759)

*see step 6 for required quantity. There is a guide on using Cotton Lawn here.

 

What is pattern template card?

 

There are some patterns that once made, will be revisited time and time again. Especially a wardrobe staple; a made to measure half circle template has functionality beyond a standalone skirt, combined with a bodice pattern it will also work in various other projects.

Not forgetting utility sewing projects, for favourite tutorials, a pre-drafted template speeds up the process when making more. While pattern paper can suffice, it’s delicate nature does limit its life as a template.

Benefits of pattern template card

 

  • It makes durable sewing pattern pieces/ templates
  • Long lasting
  • Has a strong edge for cutting/ marking clean lines
  • Doesn’t lose shape
  • Thick enough to sit flat and hold it’s shape
  • Thin enough to cut, mark and fold or roll
  • Easy to draw on
  • Can be ironed at a low heat

Additional information:

·         Pattern card will have crease marks when stored folded. Ideally store flat/ hung: Use a clip coat hanger, pattern hook or make holes with a hole punch and thread cord through for hanging pieces together. For quick future reference add a pattern card to the pattern when storing with details of size, any potential adjustments/ additional items needed, examples of projects the pattern was used on etc

What is Waist Shaper?

 

Vlieseline / Vilene Waist Shaper is a durable easy to use product that can save lots of time. It is a fusible interfacing strip, with 3 lines of cut out markings that work as a guide for pressing. In terms of texture/ drape, it has the feel of light to medium weight interfacing.

Benefits of Waist shaper

 

  • Makes cutting a length of fabric quicker and more accurate
  • Speeds up pressing
  • Fusible
  • Reduces measuring/ marking time
  • Easy to use
  •  Adds structure
  • Gives a crisp edge
  • Machine washable up to 95 degrees
  • Can be dry cleaned
  • 2 colour options

Uses for Waist shaper

  • Waistbands
  • Bag straps
  • Wrist loops
  • Keyrings
  • Handles

Additional information

Best suited for medium to heavy fabrics

 

Important notes

1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.

Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice.

 

1. Measure the following:

Waist

Required length

If measuring isn’t possible, online size guides for clothing retailers may provide the information required

 

How to calculate the measurements for a half circle skirt

 

2. Work out the maths! For the skirt the following needs to be calculated:

  •  Measure your waist size and then multiply by 2. This will give your waist circumference

For example: If your waist measure 71cm: 71cm x 2 = 142cm

  • Measure how long you wish your skirt to be (eg waist to your knee) Take your measurement and + 2cm

For example: I wish my skirt length to be 56cm

56cm + 2 = 58cm

3. Using your waist circumference measurement calculate the radius & note it down:

i) Waist circumference measurement / 3.141

For example:

142cm / 3.141 = 45.2cm (diameter)

ii) Then divide the answer by 2

For example 45.2 / 2 = 22.6 Inner Radius                                           

If the calculations are tricky, try this online calculator, enter the waist circumference calculated in step 3, check the units are cm, then make a note of the radius

 

4. Add the inner radius and total length:

For example:

22.6 + 58 = 80.6 Total radius

Calculate how much fabric is needed

 

5. With these figures, the fabric requirements can be calculated:

  • The total width of fabric needed is the total radius measurement.
  • The total length of fabric needed will be double the total radius measurement (for example, 80.6cm = 161.2cm).
  • Depending on the fabric width/ pattern the waistband piece will either fit beside the skirt or fabric will need adding on to the length.

Always allow slightly more, for shrinkage etc. and consider the pattern direction; the fabric in a half circle skirt pans around so directional prints aren’t always suitable, though with careful planning, can make a bold statement.

How to draft the pattern template

 

6. For the waistband mark a template that measures: your waist size + 2cm x 7cm

To make the piece more economical and easier to store, the length can be halved and the pattern piece labelled ‘cut on fold’ along one of the short edges.

 

7. Straighten up the short edge on the pattern template card, ensuring the corners are square

 

8. Position the end of a tape measure in one of the corners. From that point, measure up along one of the sides and make a mark at the inner radius measurement (for example, 22.6cm)

9. With the end of the tape always in the corner, pivot the other end of the tape 2cm away from the 1st mark and make another mark at the same measurement. Continue to make marks at 2cm intervals until the tape lies along the other folded edge, forming a ¼ circle

 

10. From the same corner, repeat steps 8. and 9. marking the total radius measurement (for example, 80.6)

 

11. Draw 2 lines joining each series of markings to form two ¼ circles, one small and one larger

12. Mark a ‘cut on fold’ label along one of the straight edges between the two ¼ circles

 

13. Label both templates half circle skirt, include the waist measurement and length (step 1) and cut it out

 

How to sew a half circle skirt

 

14. Starting with the skirt piece; Fold the fabric with an overlap long enough to accommodate the whole template.

The fold line will form the centre front of the skirt; consider the positioning, especially with directional prints

 

15. Position the template on the fabric with one straight edge along the fold. The other edge needs a minimum 1cm fabric overhang

 

16. Cut around the template, through both layers of fabric, adding an extra 1cm of fabric along the edge that isn’t folded for the seam allowance

How to apply the Vlieseline waist shaper

 

17. Using the waistband template, cut the waist shaper to length

 

18. Position the Waist shaper on the remaining fabric

Consider the position; the centre of the waistband’s length will end up as the top edge of the finished waistband. Fold the waist trainer in half lengthways, if needed, to help planning. The centre widthways will be the finished centre front of the skirt

 

19. Iron the waist shaper onto the fabric, using heat setting 2, no steam. Pressing each area for 8 seconds

 

20. Allow 30 minutes for the waist shaper to cool and the adhesive to cure

 

21. Cut out the waistband

22. Using the markings as a guide, fold the waistband in half lengthways and press

 

23. Fold in and press the 2 outer rows of markings, tucking in the raw edges

 

 

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How to attach the waistband

 

24. Find the quarter points around the top of the skirt and waistband and mark:

On the skirt, bring the 2 straight edges together and smooth the fabric out to the side, where the fabric folds along the smallest curved edge make a mark. Fold it in half again and mark where the 2 creases form

On the waistband, align the 2 short edges and fold the waistband in half, make a mark where it folds. Fold it in half again and mark where 2 the creases form

 

25. Sew a loose gather stitch around the top edge of the skirt 5mm from the edge. The purpose of this is to help with ease (fitting the skirt to the waistband), not to gather

 

26. Open out the waist band and line up the ¼ points with those on the skirt, right sides together, edges aligned and pin

 

27. Pin the fabric between the ¼ points

There often appears to be an excess of fabric here, distribute it evenly between the markings using the gather stitches to avoid puckers forming

 

28. Sew the waistband and skirt together easing the fabric as it runs through the machine to prevent puckering

 

29. Press the seam allowance toward the waistband

How to insert a concealed zip

 

30. Cut two 18cm lengths of seam tape

 

31. Apply the tape to the wrong side of the skirt just below the waistband following the 2 straight edges

 

 

32. Tidy the 2 straight edges of the skirt, using either zig zag stitch (length 2, width 3, tying the ends to secure) or an overlocker

 

 

33. Test the zip

 

34. With the zip open, carefully press the teeth over towards the opening, taking care not to melt the teeth

 

35. With the open zip right side down and skirt right side up. Line up the outer edge (no teeth) of the zipper tape along the straight edge of the skirt, the top zip stop butting up to the central fold in the waistband

 

36. Pin the zip tape to the skirt, ensuring the waistband seam allowance is upwards

 

37. Pull the zip slider upwards to check it doesn’t exceed the fold in the waistband when closed

 

38. Open the zip and sew in place using a concealed zipper foot. The zip teeth should tuck into the groove in the foot and the needle will sew tight to them (check manufacturers advice for the foot being used)

A concealed zipper foot lifts the teeth so the stitch line runs tight to them. Sew up to the zipper pull and back stitch. Unlike sewing a zip with a standard zipper foot, moving the pull to sew the end of the tape cannot be achieved with a concealed zipper foot so the end remains unsewn and unused in the finished opening

Once sewn the stitch line is invisible from the inside of the garment as it is tucked under the teeth. A normal zipper foot can be used with the needle set as far across as possible, though it is difficult to lift the teeth and sew the stitch line under them using this method. The finished result is less concealed zip

39. Bring the 2 sides of the skirt right sides together and fasten the zip

 

40.  Ensure the waistband of the skirt lines up on both sides of the zip and the tape isn’t twisted, and pin

41. Repeat step 38. for the pinned side of the zip

Sewing the centre back seam

 

42. Pin the 2 straight edges together and sew up to the zip stitch lines to form the centre back seam

Take care when sewing near the end of the zip. Tuck the zip end up to avoid catching it in the seam. Using a standard zipper foot makes it easier to sew alongside the end of the zip and meet the zip stitch lines

 

43. Press the seam allowances open

Finish sewing the waistband

 

44. Fold over and pin the waistband so the edge on the inside of the skirt slightly overhangs the edge on the outside

45. At each end of the waistband fold back the ends a little more than the front to prevent them obstructing the zip pull

46. From the right side of the waistband either top stitch 2mm from the bottom edge or stitch in a ditch. Both methods will secure the inside of the waistband

 

Sew a rolled hem

 

47. Starting next to the centre back seam, fold over approx. 2mm of the hem, fold it again to form a thin hemline and pin

 

48. Repeat step 47., at the seam ends, tucking the edges of the seam allowance into the folds

 

49. Starting at the centre back seam, position the hem under the presser foot right side down. Either use a rolled hem foot or form the rolled hem manually: sew close to the inner fold, folding and sewing around the bottom edge of the skirt until the start point is reached. Take care to not stretch the fabric as it approaches the needle

 

 

 

 

50. Turn the skirt out the right way and press

And you’re finished, well done!

Pin for later!

 

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below!

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