What is Manilla Pattern Card?

What is Manilla Pattern Card?

Ever heard of manilla pattern card and wondered what it is, and how it’s used in the sewing industry?

This special card is used extensively by industry professionals, pattern cutters, dressmakers & couture houses alike. It is specifically manufactured for making dressmaking pattern pieces and pattern cutting blocks more durable.

But why leave this amazing product for the professionals to benefit from when the home sewist can find so many uses for it?!

If you have a “Tried & Tested” dressmaking pattern you might want to consider investing in some Manila pattern card to preserve the life of your perfect pattern pieces, as well as making them easier for you to trace around.

If you are pattern cutting at home or tracing standard blocks, using this card means they can your pattern pieces be used over and again as a starting point for all basic garments.

Although we are focussing on dressmaking patterns here, this versatile card can be used for any of your sewing patterns… Think bag patterns, pouch patterns, bib patterns toy patterns… In fact, ANY pattern that you find yourself using time and time again would benefit from being traced on to this card.

In this guide we’ll not only give you the low down about this Pro-Product, but we’ll also walk you through two ways you can trace off and preserve one of your beloved patterns on to this useful card.

What is Manilla Pattern Making Card?

Used in garment making and pattern cutting, this card is thick & weighty enough to lay flat when cutting patterns. No pins are needed and minimal pattern weights are required, so it saves time in the long run.

Even though it’s durable, this card is also thin & lightweight enough to cut, fold, roll and store easily at home.

It is made by gluing 2 sheets of manilla card together once manufactured. This gives the card a smooth, firm and hard wearing surface and a clean tracing edge on pattern pieces & blocks.

What are the benefits of using pattern template card?

    • Tracing patterns on to manilla card will preserve the longevity of your sewing patterns that can get easily damaged through repeated use

    • Save time when tracing or cutting patterns as pins are not required

    • You get a sharp edge on your pattern piece to trace around making it easier with a rotary cutter or fabric pen

How to preserve a dressmaking pattern

How to preserve a dressmaking pattern

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

You Will Need:

New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post

How to Transfer a Pattern On To Pattern Card

Method 1: Use Pattern Weights

 

This method is particularly useful for preserving basic core pattern blocks, that will be traced around many times

1) Cut out your pattern piece on to pattern tracing paper, including any marks, dots and notches. Swedish Tracing Paper is ideal to use here

2) Lay the pattern piece flat on top of the card, using pattern weights. It needs to be completely flat so you may want to press it before proceeding.

3) Trace around all edges and markings of your pattern piece, using a long ruler or french curve to ensure you are creating accurate lines.

5) Remove the pattern piece, and cut around your new card pattern. Transfer any markings, such as notches and dots, using an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

Have you seen our Swedish Tracing Paper Guide? It’s pattern paper you can sew! Check out this post for more info

6) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

Or you can trace around them to quickly create markings for your basic block on paper, which can then be adapted to make a new pattern design.

Use a hole punch to create a hole in the pattern piece, and you can store them on thread, string or a wire hook to hang them on a rail.

Method 2: use Glue

 

In this method you glue your pattern piece to the card and then cut round the edge. All of your pattern markings will already be visible for the original pattern piece

1) Using a glue stick (ideally a fairly ‘dry’ glue that isn’t too wet and won’t cause your pattern to wrinkle) or a spray adhesive stick your paper pattern to the pattern card.

You can either cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet, or do it piece by piece. You will get a neater result sticking the pattern down as a full sheet. 

Cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet

2) Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots. Use an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots.

3) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

And you’re done!

We hope your found this product guide and tutorial on how to preserve a pattern on manilla card helpful


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What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?

What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?

Swedish Tracing Paper is a type of dressmaking pattern tracing paper that is fairly translucent, drapeable and best of all – it’s pattern paper that is sewable! This makes it an incredible choice for making muslins or toiles whilst dressmaking.

In this guide we’re going to talk you through the product, as well as offer a tutorial on how to use this amazing dressmaking pattern paper & how using it can save you both time AND fabric!

What is Swedish Tracing Paper?

 

Unlike conventional pattern drafting paper that can tear or crumple easily, Swedish tracing paper can be used to

  • Trace dressmaking patterns
  • Alter patterns
  • Sew pattern pieces traced on to Swedish Tracing Paper together to make a muslin & get an idea of fit
  • Easily mark pattern alterations on to

It’s super useful and will save you time and fabric! You could easily skip making a muslin or toile from Calico fabric and use Swedish Tracing Paper instead.

New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post

What is Swedish Tracing Paper made from?

Swedish tracing paper is made from eco-friendly abaca fibres, making it compostable & environmentally friendly. The tightly packed, jumbled fibres make it more tear-resistant than regular pattern paper yet it’s still translucent enough to see through for tracing . 

You can sew Swedish tracing paper in the same way you would sew regular ‘muslin’ fabrics using a universal needle and thread.

You can baste your traced pattern pieces together with a long stitch on your sewing machine. Once sewn you can easily mark any fit alterations on your pattern pieces in pencil. After that you can unpick the seams to adjust and retrace the pattern pieces!

 

What is Swedish Tracing Paper

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

How to use Swedish Tracing Paper to trace a pattern

You Will Need:

Make it even easier with…

1. First, lay the pattern pieces you want to trace on a flat surface.

You may wish to dry iron them first so they lay completely flat for the most accurate trace.

Place your Swedish Tracing Paper on top.

You do not need to use a light box or a window to trace through as Swedish Tracing Paper is translucent enough to see even fairly fine lines through. 

2. You can use pattern weights or pins to hold the tracing paper over the pattern pieces as it can have a tendency to curl away slightly.

If you find your tracing paper gets a little crumpled or creased, iron it on a silk or cool setting and a pressing cloth. 

3. To trace off a master copy of any pattern simply trace over your desired sizes, markings & labels on your pattern pieces.

Swedish tracing paper is easy to mark with pencil, pen or even chalk, but pencil is easiest to remark and remove if you make a mistake.

4. Next, cut around the edge of your pattern with paper scissors and mark with your awl all the markings (eg circle markings for bust points) & a pattern notcher for the notches, if you have one.

5. Either use your traced pattern straight away, or sew together using a basting stitch.

Once basted you can then try on your pattern for size!

Mark any adjustments you need to make & alter the pattern piece as required.

Retrace the pattern piece to try again.  

6. You can use the pattern pieces you create from Swedish tracing paper as you would normal paper pattern pieces

Then, simply pin or use pattern weights when cutting out, but they are much more durable in use. For those of us who find the perfect pattern we want to make a time & time again – no more pin marked and destroyed paper pattern pieces!

Sewing and Handling Tips

 

  • Needle – Universal machine needles work well for running a simple tacking stitch
  • Thread – A polyester thread works best for creating muslins, as it does not snap easily and is smooth for easy removal.
  • Sewing – Use a long, basting stitch length.

 

We hope you found this product guide helpful…. Do let us know what you thought in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!

9 Quick Homemade Gifts You Can Sew In Under 30 Minutes!

9 Quick Homemade Gifts You Can Sew In Under 30 Minutes!

If you’re anything like me, you’ll have decided you want to make some last-minute gifts & you’re on the lookout for some quick homemade gifts

Am I right?!

I’m going to help you out here….

This is a round-up of some of our quickest & easiest sewing tutorials so you CAN whip up some homemade presents in a flash!

Nothing says I love you like handmade… right?

Read on for 9 Quick homemade gifts you can sew in around 30 minutes!

9 Quick homemade gifts you can sew in around 30 minutes!

Check out our round-up of some of our speediest sews that make quick handmade gifts ⤵️

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

9 homemade gifts you can sew in around 30 minutes


Make a notebook cover in around 30 minutes
!

 

A5 notebook cover tutorial

It’s the way to personalise any notebook

Check out the tutorial


Learn to make a key fob

Sew a Keyfob tutorial

These key fobs are SUPER SPEEDY to make! 

Whip one up in just 5 minutes No Joke!


Make some reusable makeup pads in a jiffy!

 

Reusable Makeup Pads Tutorial

Reusable make up pads are a speedy sew AND help with being a little bit more sustainable…  Win Win!


 


Sew some quick napkins

 

15 Minute Napkin Tutorial

Napkins are for life, not just for Christmas!

Use this method using some cotton lawn to make some handkerchiefs

Another eco-conscious quick gift idea!


Sew a 30 minute skirt in any size

 

Sew an elasticated Skirt in 30 minutes

Is it really possible to sew a skirt in 30 minutes?

Make a skirt of any size too!

Oh yes!


Sew some 15-minute Fabric Trays

 

Speedy & thrifty! These fabric trays are a great little scrap buster…

Our 15-minute fabrics trays are super useful & make a great gift


Sew Baby A Dribble Bib

 

Free dribble bib pattern

These quick & simple bibs are a speedy sew…

Any tired new mum will be glad of the general clothes laundry save these dribble bibs will bring!


Make a quick eye mask

 

Free Eye mask pattern and tutorial

 

Gift the gift of a good night’s sleep!

Our FREE pattern & eye mask tutorial will be a popular gift


Sew some quick coasters

 

Sew Christmas Coasters - free tutorial


C
oasters to match any decor

This a fab scrap buster project that can showcase two of your favourite fabrics….


Please do let us know in the comments if you make any of our tutorials, we’d love to hear!

Happy sewing…

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How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

Make your own Pyjama Bottoms Tutorial Part 2 Banner

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Hello Seam-Stars! Thanks for joining me again for the second post in our “Make your own Pyjama Bottoms” series

Yesterday’s post gave you instructions on how to make your pyjama bottom pattern. If you’ve not done that yet – you need to hop over and make your pattern pieces – otherwise this post won’t make any sense at all!

Don’t be daunted… there are videos and everything!

In this post we’re going to talk about the fabrics you can use to make your own pyjama bottoms, as well as a sewing tutorial on how to sew them up once you have created your pattern

 

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

Supplies you will need:

 

Sewing Kit You Will Need:

Choosing fabric to make pyjama bottoms

 

You can use a number of different fabrics to make PJs… In our sewing tutorial we’ve used flannel fabric – and for good reason… It’s a perfect fabric choice! But not the only one…

Firstly, think about the fabric weight you’d like – you can both use lightweight or slightly heavier weight fabrics when making pyjamas – the season will determine the best choice for your garment.

We would definitely recommend natural, breathable fabrics over manmade fabrics for PJS. The exception here is manmade fleece which would be a good choice in very cold weather.

 

Choosing fabric to make pyjamas
Here are our top picks for fabrics suitable for pyjamas

 

  1. Flannel fabric: We LOVE flannel fabric for making pyjamas… It would be our first choice. It’s soft, warm, cosy, an easy sew & breathable – perfect for PJs! If you’re not really sure what flannel fabric is then check out our Fabric Guide To Flannel for the full low down
  2. Quilting cotton: There’s a mind boggling choice of funky designs available in quilting cotton so you can make a garment that’s really bespoke & individual. It’s easy & stable to sew, as well as being breathable. The only downer might be the drape with some quilt cottons – some brands can be a little stiff.
  3. Jersey – Really comfy for PJ bottoms as they stretch when you do… if you know what I mean 😉 Natural fibre jersey is the best choice. Stretch fabric does require a little special handling and a stretch or ballpoint needle is required.
  4. Cotton lawn : Cotton lawn would make a great fabric choice for PJs – it’s lighter weight than regular quilting cotton & better suited for summer PJs. Soft, stable, better drape & breathable. Read our Guide To Cotton Lawn for more info about this fave fabric.
  5. Viscose: if you’re after something that has loads of drape & will result in a floaty pair of PJs then viscose is a good choice BUT viscose is rather slippery to sew. If you’re a beginner Seam-Star you would be best off trying one of the other fabric choices first to save swear words. Read our viscose tips and you can decide if it’s for you…
  6. Fleece: The season has to be right for fleece fabric pyjamas. Most (but not all) fleece is made from polyester and if you wear fleece in bed when it’s too warm you’re going to end up “glowing” in your new bottoms! Read all about fleece fabric here

DisclaimerA note on sleepwear for children – We don’t advise making children’s nightwear, unless you source specially treated, fire resistant textiles. Many fabrics do not meet the fire retardancy requirements to be safe for children’s nightwear required under UK law

So once you’ve decided what fabric you’d like, you need to make sure you have all the supplies!

Sewing your pyjama bottoms

Important Notes:

  • 1cm /  ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • We have used an overlocker to finish the seams & prevent fraying, but you can refer to this post if you do not have an overlocker for alternative seam finishing methods.
  • RST = Right Sides Together.
  • WST = Wrong Sides Together.
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting.

Cutting Your fabrics & notions

Cut out your prepared paper pattern, including the seam allowances.

You may wish to transfer the paper pattern to manilla template card for easier tracing or if you think you will make multiple pairs of pyjamas.

Alternatively trace the final pattern pieces more neatly & boldly on a fresh piece of pattern paper if your original pattern is a little scruffy.

Cutting Out:

From The Flannel Fabric Cut: 

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser fronts from your prepared pattern

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser backs from your prepared pattern

1 x Length of elastic that fits your waist measurement

Sewing together the pyjama bottoms

  1. Place one front leg & one back leg RST . Pin down the long outer edge & sew. Overlock/ seam finish as desired (check out our post here for more info on seam finishing without an overlocker).
Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

2. Then, with RST, pin down the lower inner leg, not including the crotch & sew this together. Overlock/finish as desired.

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

You should now have two legs sewn at the side seams

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

3. Line up the trousers along the crotch RST. Match the centre seams and pin in place all along the crotch seam.

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4. Sew along the crotch seam, and overlock/finish as desired.

5. Press up the hem allowance first 0.5cm, then 1.5cm

Press up the hem allowance

6. Hem by hand or by machine using a straight stitch. Repeat for both legs.

7. Press the waistband casing over by 0.5cm, then 2.5cm

Press the waistband casing over by 0.5cm then 2.5cm

 

8. Pin and stitch in place, leaving a 5cm gap to insert your elastic.

9. Insert your elastic, guiding it using the safety pin secured to one end.

Insert your elastic

 

10. Zig zag stitch the two ends of the elastic together, and slip this joined end into the elastic casing.

11. Sew the remainder of the casing channel closed, being careful not to catch the elastic.

12. If you want to add a decorative bow, cut a length of ribbon approximately 60/70cm long. Fold over the ends and stitch in place.

13. Mark the midpoint. Pin this to the centre front seam on your waistband. Stitch in place.

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms Step 13 - Mark the midpoint

14. Tie in a bow!

 

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms Step 14 - Tie in a bow

And you’re finished, well done!

If you make a pair of trousers please let us know if the comments!


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Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms Pin

Create Your Own Pyjama Sewing Pattern: Part 1

Create Your Own Pyjama Sewing Pattern: Part 1

We all have that perfect pair of pyjama bottoms – just the right combination of comfiness, cosiness & enough room to account for a mini tea & biscuit feast on an evening! You could try to find a sewing pattern to recreate them, or you can follow our tutorial to create your own pyjama sewing pattern to exactly replicate your favourite PJs!

And the best part is this tutorial can be used to make any size pyjama bottoms. Sewing these is straight forward and definitely possible for a beginner…

Create your own pyjama sewing pattern

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This is a two part tutorial

  • This post will take you through how to create your pyjama sewing pattern
  • The second post in this series will take your through the best pyjama fabric choices & a tutorial on how to sew the pyjama bottoms up
Make your own pyjama bottoms

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Skill level : Beginner

Approximate sewing time to draft sewing pattern for pyjama bottoms AND sew your pyjama bottoms : A long afternoon

Sew your own pyjama bottoms

To draft your pyjama bottom sewing pattern you will need

 

For fabric requirements & notions requirements are in the next post!

Creating your pyjama bottom pattern

 

Prepare to trace your pyjama bottoms

1.Turn the pyjama bottoms inside out. 

2. Put your hand through the bottom hole of one leg, and take the bottom hole of the other leg, pulling it through so that one leg is inside the other.

Prepare to trace your pyjama bottoms

3. Flatten and smooth out the trouser legs as much as possible, so that the bottom holes of each leg align.

Tracing the back leg for your pyjama sewing pattern

 

We’re going to create two pattern pieces for your pyjama bottom pattern – a front leg and a back leg.

4. Lay your pyjama bottoms as flat as possible on the paper, with the back leg of the pyjama bottoms on the paper. Make sure the long side seam is flat on the paper. You will be able to see the inner leg seam.

5. Trace along the bottom and the long side seam up to the waistband, marking the corner of the waistband when you reach it. Roll the fabric away from the long side seam, so that the inner seam is flat to the paper. You need to do this as the back leg is wider than the front leg and you need to get the full width.

6. Now trace along the inner seam. You may need to adjust the seam as you go. As you go up the leg towards the crotch it gets a lot wider, so you might need to roll the fabric and adjust more to make it lie flat to the paper.

7. With the fabric rolled away from the side seam, when you reach the crotch apex only trace a little up. Do not trace any further up to the waistband yet. Watch our video below to help

8. Line up the edge of the waistband with the corner of the waistband you drew earlier. Press down firmly with your fingers to hold it in place. 

9. Stretch the waistband out so the fabric is flat against the paper, and not gathered. Hold the centre seam of the waistband in place on the opposite side where you have already marked a corner and trace the edge of the waistband.

10. Release the waistband. Line up the centre seam of your waistband with the line you just traced on the edge of the waistband and make a mark down the centre seam.

11. Line up the crotch of your pyjama bottoms on your traced line and finish tracing the curve from where you initially marked

12. Once you have traced around your pyjamas it is likely that your line will be a little wonky! If you have a French Curve, now’s the time to grab it. You are going to neaten up your drawn lines and smooth out your curves.

One side of the French Curve will be straight, and the other has a variable shaped curve which will fit most curves of any dressmaking pattern. It’s a useful tool to have in your sewing arsenal for pattern alterations – just move the curved edge up and down until you have a curve that best matches your drawn line.

If you don’t have a French Curve – just eye up smoothing out your curves and use your ruler on the straight edges.

Now label this piece ‘Back’ and don’t forget to add seam allowances before use. See the note on seam allowances further down the post


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Tracing the front leg for your pyjama sewing pattern

 

Now we’re going to create a pattern piece for the front leg using the same method….

13. Turn the pyjama bottoms over and again lay them as flat as possible on the paper, but with the front leg of the pyjama bottoms on the paper. Make sure the long side seam is flat on the paper. Make sure the inner leg seam is hidden under the fabric of the leg. 

14. Trace along the bottom and the long side seam up to the waistband.

15. Keeping the fabric in place with your hand, lift the folded fabric edge so that the inner side seam is showing. Trace along the inner side seam, adjusting a few cm at a time until you reach the crotch.

16. As with the back of the leg, line up the waistband with the corner you marked, and stretch the waistband out so the fabric is flat against the paper, and not gathered. Hold the centre seam of the waistband in place on the opposite side and trace down the edge of the waistband.

17. Release the waistband. Line up the centre seam of your waistband with the line you just traced on the edge of the waistband and make a mark down the centre seam. 

18. Line up the crotch of your pyjama bottoms on your traced line, and finish tracing the curve from where you initially marked.

19. Label this piece ‘Front’ and don’t forget to add seam allowances before use. See the note on seam allowances further down the post

Creating the waistband

We are creating a casing style waistband – this is where you create a casing and thread the elastic through your casing channel:

You need to measure the width of the elastic, add 0.5cm / ¼” to create a generous casing,  and add another 0.5cm / ¼” to fold under. In this case we are using 2cm / ¾” wide elastic. Draw a line parallel to, and 3cm / 1 ¼” from the top waist of your pattern.

Now we want to make the lines you’ve traced a bit clearer and smoother. Use your French curve or ruler to smooth out your traced line. Check out the seam allowance video below for how to use the French Curve.

Adding Seam Allowances To Your Pyjama Bottom Pattern

Measure the seam allowance on your original pyjama bottoms. You can either copy and apply this seam allowance, or use a standard 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance to keep things simple (this is what we did)

You need to apply your seam allowance to the side seams, inner leg seams and crotch curves. 

Use your ruler or French Curve for this making little dashes or dots 1cm/ 3/8″ from your smoothed out traced line. Please note: In this video we got carried away adding 3/8″ seam allowance and added that on to the waist when we should have added the waistband (just in case you were wondering why yours was different!)

For the hem, you will need a deeper seam allowance. Decide how wide you would like your hem to be, and add another 0.5cm / ¼” to this measurement. For this sample we used a 1.5cm ⅝” hem, and added 0.5cm / ¼”, which will get folded under to enclose the raw edge. You need to add a line parallel to the hemline, 2cm / ¾” from the bottom leg.

Mark on your pattern pieces the same allowance and hem allowance

Cut around your pattern pieces on the drawn seam allowance line.

Mark on your pattern pieces the same allowance and hem allowance

 

You should now have a front and back leg pattern pieces. Well done!

Now it’s time to sew up your pyjama bottoms… See the part 2 of this tutorial here for fabric choices & sewing info

Make your own pyjama bottoms tutorial part 2

Check out the next post in this series!


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Create your own pyjama sewing pattern

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