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Understanding Different Types of Sewing Scissors

Understanding Different Types of Sewing Scissors

Have you ever tried to chop vegetables with a butter knife? Painful, right? Using the wrong sewing scissors for your project is just as maddening. The right pair of scissors can be the difference between a masterpiece and a fabric disaster From pinking shears to fabric scissors to embroidery scissors, each type serves a unique purpose in the sewing world. Using the right type of scissors can make a world of difference, not only in the outcome of your project but in the overall ease and enjoyment of the process. So, let’s dive into the world of scissors and get to know our trusty crafty cutting companions a little better….

Why the Right Sewing Scissors Matter

Imagine spending hours picking out the perfect fabric, carefully cutting your pattern, only to realise your scissors have chewed through the edges like a hungry squirrel. Heartbreaking, right? This is why sewing scissors matter. Each type is designed for a specific purpose, ensuring clean cuts, smooth edges, and no fraying.

But it’s not just about the aesthetics. Using the wrong scissors can lead to wasted fabric and even sore hands. For example, did you know that poorly maintained or inappropriate scissors can cause hand fatigue? A study from the Ergonomics Society of America found that using ergonomic scissors reduces muscle strain by up to 30%. Your hands will thank you.

Just a heads up! Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means we may earn a small commission - at no extra cost to you - if you make a purchase through them. It’s a little way you can support us and help keep all this awesome content free. Thanks for supporting us! Please read our full disclaimer here 

Types of Sewing Scissors

Fabric Scissors

Fabric scissors are the secret weapon of any sewist. These bad boys aren’t your average scissors that you might use to open a bag of frozen peas, or cut paper (heaven forbid!) No, no, NO!

These are the bread and butter of sewing scissors. Fabric shears are long-bladed, incredibly sharp, and perfect for cutting large pieces of fabric. They’re designed to glide through fabric effortlessly, giving you precise, straight edges.

  • Use Case: Cutting patterns, trimming fabric edges.
  • Pro Tip: Always use fabric shears exclusively for fabric. Cutting paper will dull the blades faster than you can say “seam allowance.”

These special scissors are designed specifically to cut through all kinds of materials, from delicate silk to tough denim. They’re sharp, they’re precise, and they’re just a little bit magical. Fabric scissors are designed with longer blades than regular scissors, which makes it easier to cut through multiple layers of fabric at once.  To keep them that way you need to ensure you cut fabric and ONLY fabric with them. But this you know, right?! Treat them well and these specially designed scissors will slice through fabric without fraying or snagging.

My personal favourite pair of fabric scissors and what we use in our fabric shop are these Fiskars Dressmaking Scissors. They are comfortable to use, have a long blade and last well between sharpens. They’re a classic for a reason…

5 Fun Facts about Scissors

Tips for maintaining fabric scissors

Maintaining your fabric scissors is essential to ensure you get the best out of them for years to come.

 

  • Only use your fabric scissors for cutting fabric and nothing else.
  • Keep them clean and dry
  • Avoid dropping them or leaving them open,
  • Store them in a safe place
  • Give them a drop of oil on the pivot point every now and then.
  • A quick wipe after each use will help keep them in tip-top shape
  • Sharpen with a scissor sharpener. Hands down my fave is this amazing sharpening tool from Fiskars

Want More Sewing Know-How?

Pinking Shears

 

Have you ever been sewing a beautiful piece of fabric and when you cut it, it frayed like crazy? That’s where pinking shears come in! Pinking shears are a versatile tool designed to prevent fabric from fraying or unravelling.

These funky-looking scissors have zigzag blades that create a serrated edge on your fabric. They’re perfect for finishing seams, creating decorative edges, or just adding a little bit of flair to your next sewing project.

 

Tips for using pinking shears effectively

  1. Don’t force the shears through the fabric. Let the blades do the work for you. If the fabric is too thick you might blunt your pinks.
  2. Make sure your fabric is flat and not bunched up before cutting.
  3. Clean your pinking shears regularly for optimal performance.

If you haven’t already added a pair of pinking shears to your crafting kit, they are a worthwhile investment. Don’t let frayed fabric put a snag in your handmade masterpieces; these shears offer a quick and easy solution that’ll make all the difference.

And slightly off the scissor topic, but whilst we’re talking about pinking… Did you realise you can get pinking blades for your rotary cutter too?

Embroidery Scissors

Embroidery scissors are a Seam-Star’s best friend. Think of these scissors as tiny, sharp little helpers that help you snip and trim intricate designs in your work. They’re perfect for those hard-to-reach areas that regular scissors just can’t handle.

Embroidery scissors are typically small and lightweight and come in a variety of styles, including straight and curved. Embroidery scissors may sound like just any ordinary cutting tool, but they are so much more. These little sewing mates are a must in my sewing kit and mine get more use snipping fabric than embroidery thread, despite the name.

When you use embroidery scissors in sewing you’ll minimise the possibility of snipping your stitches… if you’ve ever done this you’ll know how frustrating this is! It can even be terminal for your project if you take a snip too far. Safety first! Use embroidery scissors for intricate work.

Embroidery scissors are the tool you need when snipping back fabric close to stitching lines for turning, notching collars or reducing bulk in a seam and help you can get right up close to a stitch line in a way your big fabric scissors can’t, lessening the chance you’ll cut through your beautiful sewn seams… I also use them a lot for grading seams. These little touches help elevate the look of your creations from homemade to artisan so are a worthwhile investment.

Curved vs. straight embroidery scissors

So what’s the difference between curved and straight embroidery scissors?

Curved embroidery scissors have blades that are curved upward, which makes it easier to cut thread or fabric while holding the scissors at an angle. These scissors are particularly useful for cutting threads close to the surface of the fabric without accidentally cutting the fabric itself. They are also helpful when cutting intricate shapes, such as curves or circles, because the curve of the blades allows for more precise cutting.

On the other hand, straight embroidery scissors have blades that are straight and flat. These scissors are best suited for cutting straight lines, such as when trimming fabric or cutting large pieces of embroidery floss. They are also useful for making small, precise cuts, such as when snipping the ends of thread after tying knots, or snipping

I’ve tried a few pairs of embroidery scissors but these little fellas are my favourite kind. With unparalleled precision, there isn’t a project I sew without using them. Trust me, once you use these little gems, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without them!

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Tailor's Shears

Step aside, scissors, because there’s a new blade in town. Say hello to Tailor’s shears!

Fabric scissors and tailors shears are both used for cutting fabric, but what are their differences?

Some benefits of using tailor’s shears over fabric scissors are:

     

    1. Longer blades: Tailor’s shears typically have longer blades than fabric scissors, which can make it easier to cut through larger pieces of fabric with fewer strokes. This can save time and effort when cutting out large pattern pieces.
    1. Better leverage: The design of tailor’s shears, with their offset handles, allows for better leverage and control when cutting through multiple layers of fabric. This can make it easier to cut smoothly and accurately through thicker fabrics, such as wool or denim.
    1. Sharper edges: Tailor’s shears are often sharper than fabric scissors, which means they can make cleaner cuts through fabric. This is especially important when cutting delicate fabrics, such as silk or chiffon, where a jagged edge can ruin the fabric.
    1. Ergonomic design: Many tailor’s shears are designed with ergonomic handles that are more comfortable to hold and use for extended periods of time. This can reduce hand fatigue and strain, which is important for anyone who spends a lot of time cutting fabric.

    Overall, tailor’s shears can offer more control, leverage, and precision when cutting fabric, especially for larger or thicker pieces. However, they may not be the best choice for all types of fabrics or cutting tasks. Their larger size does have benefits, but also means they could be heavier than your regular fabric scissors.  It’s important to choose the right tool for the job, based on the type of fabric, the complexity of the project, and your personal preferences.

    General Purpose Scissors

    If you’re a sewing fanatic like me, there’s no doubt that you have a collection of scissors already. But have you got a pair general purpose scissors just for your sewing space? Guaranteed to save family feuds when the kids are after something to snip with, the versatility these scissors provide is perfect for all your cutting needs.

    These bad boys are the Swiss army knife of the scissor world (minus the toothpick, unfortunately). They’re perfect for cutting any weird and wonderful fabric like mesh, vinyl, PUL, laminates, and even leather.

    Their stainless steel construction ensures general-purpose scissors will last for years to come. If you’re missing these in your sewing supplies then investing in some general-purpose scissors designed for more materials will leave your fabric scissors on the throne they need.

    Hobby Scissors

    Hobby scissors are a general-purpose scissor and are the perfect antidote to ruined fabric scissors! Hobby scissors are here to save your day! They’re scissors designed specifically for cutting through different types of materials when working on craft projects.

    They tend to have a blunt tip for safety and their petite size makes hobby scissors perfect for cutting ribbon, paper, gift wrap, and basically, anything else you need sliced and diced, these little beauties are the answer to all of your crafting woes.

    These speciality scissors are perfect for hobbyists who need precise cuts to make their projects look just right.

    Children's Scissors

    So why am I talking about children’s scissors in a post about sewing scissors? Well… There are several benefits of having dedicated children’s scissors in your sewing room! Let me explain…

    1. Keep kids occupied: Children’s scissors can keep kids occupied and entertained while you work on your sewing project. This can be especially helpful if you have a child who is curious about sewing but not quite ready for the more advanced tools.
    1. Protect your fabric scissors: Let’s face it, fabric scissors can be expensive and it can be frustrating to have them ruined by a curious child. Giving your child their own set of scissors can help protect your fabric scissors and prevent any mishaps.
    1. Introduce kids to sewing: By giving your child their own set of scissors, you can introduce them to the world of sewing and crafting. They can practice cutting and using scissors safely while you work on your projects.
    1. Fun and colourful designs: Children’s scissors come in a variety of fun and colourful designs that can add a touch of whimsy to your sewing room. From animal-shaped handles to interesting blade designs, children’s scissors can be a fun addition to your collection of sewing tools.

    Overall, having children’s scissors in your sewing room can be a great way to keep kids entertained and protect your more expensive tools. Plus, it can be a fun way to introduce kids to the world of sewing and crafting. Win win!

     

    Snip, snip, hooray! We hope you found that useful and you can say goodbye to more struggles and frustration.

    With a wider variety of specialised scissors in your stash, you can craft just about any project without having to worry if the tools in your kit are up for the task. You can make your sewing time quicker, easier and more enjoyable as well as helping your projects look more professional.

    Do you have a secret scissor obsession? Spill the beans in the comments below! Share your go-to pair and helpful tips so fellow DIY enthusiasts can level up their crafting game. Together, we can conquer the world of sewing one snip at a time.

    9 Tips For Extending the Life of Rotary Cutter Blades

    9 Tips For Extending the Life of Rotary Cutter Blades

    It’s no secret that a good rotary cutter is an essential tool for any sewist or quilter. But as we all know, those blades can get dull pretty quickly if they’re not taken care of. Fortunately, there are some simple steps you can take to ensure your rotary cutter blades stay nice and sharp for as long as possible. Read on to find out nine tips that will extend the life of your rotary cutter blades saving you time, and money, whilst reducing waste!

    Just a heads up! Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means we may earn a small commission - at no extra cost to you - if you make a purchase through them. It’s a little way you can support us and help keep all this awesome content free. Thanks for supporting us! Please read our full disclaimer here 

     9 tips for extending the Life of your rotary cutter blades

    Tip #1: Use a Cutting Mat: Always use a cutting mat when cutting with a rotary cutter. This will protect your blades from dulling on hard surfaces like tables or countertops. If you keep your cutting mat in good condition, it will help reduce the wear and tear on both your fabric and your blades. Plus, using a cutting mat helps reduce the risk of cuts from slipping—which is always great news! Not only will this help preserve your rotary blades, but it’ll also keep your fabric looking lush and lovely for longer. Plus, no more slip-ups resulting in accidental nicks – thank goodness! Your blades (and fingertips) will thank you!

    Tip #2: Do Not Cut Over Pins: Avoid cutting over pins as this can damage the blade edge and cause it to become dull quickly. To prevent this, use a pin cushion or mat with a grid pattern on it. The pins should be placed along the grid lines to ensure that the blade does not come into contact with them. If you do accidentally cut over a pin, don’t worry – just take extra care when removing the fabric from your cutting surface so as not to further damage the blade. 

    Tip #3: Invest in high-quality rotary cutter blades: This is a smart move for any sewing enthusiast. Have you heard the saying “Buy cheap, buy twice”? Not all blades are created equal – some dull faster than others, and who has time for that? With a reliable set of blades, you can cut through fabric like a hot knife through butter (or cheese, if that’s your thing). Our recommendation would be to use OLFA blades as they are the best in breed. You’ll save money in the long run by not having to replace blades as often, and the OLFA Endurance Blades are second to none!

    Tip #4: Store Your Blades Safely: Rotary cutter blades are incredibly sharp and should be stored safely when not in use. One way to help extend your blade’s life & keep your blades sharp and in tip-top condition is to store them in a safe place where they won’t get jostled around or damaged. We’ve all been guilty of throwing our sewing supplies into a bag and hitting the road. However, if you take an extra second to properly store your rotary cutter, you could add months, or even years, to the life of your blades. Make sure to check the case regularly for any signs of damage or wear and replace it if needed.

    Tip #5: Avoid cutting through multiple layers of fabric: I know, I know, it can be tempting to just stack up those layers and power through, but hear me out. Putting too much strain on the blade like that can cause it to dull prematurely. Your blades will thank you, and so will your wallet! Keep those blades sharp and your projects will be smooth sailing.

    Tip #6: Keep Your Blades Clean: Want to keep your blades sharp and shiny for all your creative endeavours? Well, here’s a quick tip: keep ’em clean! After each project, show your blades some love by wiping them down with a soft cloth. No need for any lingering lint, fabric particles, or debris to dull your blade’s shine. Trust us, taking a little time to clean them regularly will pay off big time in the long run, just handle them carefully so you don’t nick yourself.

    Tip #7: Save old blades for paper & polyester: One way to extend your rotary cutter blade’s lifespan is by giving them a second chance. When your blades are no longer sharp enough for fabrics, don’t throw them out. Instead, save them for cutting paper or other materials that contain plastic. Polyester, vinyl, and other synthetic fabrics all fall under this category. By doing so, you’ll get more bang for your buck and make your rotary cutting experience that much smoother. I save old blades for cutting mesh, vinyl, PUL… anything I know is not a natural fibre really and it really does help keep them sharp.

    Tip #8: Choose the right size blade: You might be thinking, “What does size have to do with it?” But it’s all about reducing wear and tear on the blade. Using a small blade for thick fabrics can cause your blade to dull quickly, which means you’ll have to replace it more often. On the other hand, a large blade for delicate fabrics may cause unwanted frayed edges.

    Tip #9: Don’t cut too fast: When using a rotary cutter blade, it is important to keep in mind that it is not designed for speed. Don’t let your need for speed get the best of you – slow and steady cuts keep blades like these last longer. Take a breather, relish in the cutting process, and avoid overworking your trusty tool. You’ll reap the rewards of a clean, crisp cut every time! Take your time and cut at a moderate pace to ensure that the blade does not get overworked or slip around. This will help reduce wear and tear on the blade, allowing it to stay sharper for longer.

    Prolonging the life of your rotary cutter blades doesn’t have to be difficult – by following these nine simple tips you should find that they stay sharper for much longer than before! With these tips in mind, you can spend less time worrying about replacing blades and more time crafting your beautiful sewing and quilting projects with ease.

    If you have any more tips for extending the life of your rotary cutter blades then please share in the comments to help others in the sewing and quilting community!

    How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

    How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

    Welcome to post number 3 in our Care & Repair Series! Hand up if you love a pocket?! 🙋‍♀️ Pockets are a complete joy to dressmakers everywhere… but what if your pocket wears out? In this post we’re going to walk you through how to repair a pocket. This method can be used for trousers or skirts.

    You can also use this method to repair a pocket in a shop bought garment if the pockets are too small for your needs. The joys of sewing, eh?!

    Read on to learn how to repair a pocket… it’s easier than you think. We’ve even got a no sew option for you…

    Just a heads up! Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means we may earn a small commission - at no extra cost to you - if you make a purchase through them. It’s a little way you can support us and help keep all this awesome content free. Thanks for supporting us! Please read our full disclaimer here 

    Pockets are great for keeping all kinds of useful stuff…  from your phone, to loose change, even the occasional biscuit! Because pockets are so well used, they come under huge amounts of wear & tear.

    Pocket bags are usually made from a thinner fabric than the outer trousers or skirt and so holes can be commonplace. And instead of outing a garment and sending it to landfill just because your keys are falling through a pocket hole you can learn to replace the pockets instead. It’s a win for the planet!

    Soap box alert! When it comes to pockets in girls’ and women’s clothing. As a general rule of thumb, female fashions have sported pockets that are for purely fashion reasons rather than practical ones.

    This certainly annoys my daughter who feels the need to fill her pockets with stones and twigs at every given opportunity. So here I am repairing a hole in her jeans pocket but also extending the pocket bags for her.

    In this post we’re going to walk you though

    • How to replace a pocket bag using sewing
    • How to replace a pocket without sewing
    • Create larger pocket bags for your garments

    Tutorial: How To Replace A Trouser Pocket

    Skill level required: Beginner Friendly

    Some important notes about replacement pocket products

    • Replacement pockets come as whole pockets. You can cut them down to the size you require or use them to replace the whole pocket if needed.
    • We are concentrating on trouser pockets here but the same method, and replacement pockets, can be used to repair pockets in trousers, skirts, jeans, dresses, jackets and more. Just check the pocket sizes against your garment as each one differs.
    • In this post we are using two different products, a sew-in version and an iron-on version. It is up to you to choose which is the most suitable for your needs.
    • The sew in pockets are trickier to use and require some sewing knowledge but they will last a very long time.
    • The iron on pockets are far simpler to use and don’t require any sewing at all but the repair may not last as long as sewn in pockets.
    • These pockets are are suitable to replace cotton, nylon, or polyester pockets.

      How to replace a pocket : The Sew In Method

       

       

      • Identify where the hole is in your pocket.
        • Draw a line in a washable fabric pen just above the damage.
        • If the pocket flap is stitched into the side seam, cut along this edge 1cm.
      •  Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

      Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

      • To mark the new pocket:
        • Lay the replacement pocket underneath the original pocket, lining up the edges. 
        • Make sure the folded edge is lined up with the folded edge of the original pocket and the seamed edge with the side seam. 
        • Allow for as much additional pocket bag as you wish to add.
        • Pin the two pockets together
        • Using the fabric marker, trace the edge of the original pocket onto the replacement pocket. 
      • Turn the raw edges outwards and line them up so that the new pocket and original line up. 
      • Stitch along the circumference to join the two pockets together using a 1cm seam allowance. 
      • Finish the raw edges in your preferred way, either pinking, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, or overlocker, to prevent fraying. 
      • Press the seam
      • Top stitch the side edge back to the side seam of the trousers to finish your mending project.

      If you would like to repair your pocket by hand sewing then check out Hemline’s video here

      How to replace a pocket : The Iron On  Method

      • Start in the same way as you did with the sew in pocket. 
      • Mark a line above where the damage is and cut along this line. 
      • If your pocket is sewn into the side seam, cut along this edge approx. 1.5cm.

      1. Start in the same way as you did with the sew in pocket.
      • Mark a line above where the damage is and cut along this line.
      • If your pocket is sewn into the side seam, cut along this edge approx. 1.5cm.

       

      how to replace a pocket iron on method step 1

       

      how to replace a pocket iron on method
      1. Insert the bottom edge of the pocket into the replacement pocket, making sure the adhesive tape covers the pocket fabric.
      • Pin it in place.
      • Using a hot iron and a damp cloth press the adhesive tape pressing firmly

       

      replacing a pocket using the iron method - press the adhesive tape firmly

         

        1. Repeat the pressing on both sides of the pocket making sure to heat all of the tape.
        • Leave the pocket to cool for 10-20 minutes before moving it, allowing the adhesive to bond properly.
        allow the replacement pocket adhesive to bond properly
        pocket repair is complete using iron method

         

        Your pocket repair is complete!

        You can also check out Hemline’s video on how to use this product here

        We hope you found that helpful! Do let us know how you get on if you repair a pocket

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        How To Use Fold Over Elastic

        How To Use Fold Over Elastic

        Have you heard about fold over elastic? Ever wondered what this product is, where it can be used and how to apply fold over elastic?

        You’re in the right place! In this product guide we’re going to shine a light on all things fold over elastic so grab a cuppa and read on!

         

        Fold Over Elastic

         

        In this Fold Over Elastic product guide we will be covering:
        • What Is Fold Over Elastic
        • What Is Fold Over Elastic Used for?
        • How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

        What is Fold Over Elastic?

        Fold Over Elastic (or ‘FOE’ for short) is a thin, lightweight, flat elastic which has a crease down the centre of its length. The crease makes it easy to fold in half along the length, encasing the seam edge of your pattern piece.

         

        Fold over elastic or FOE - thin lightweight flat elastic with crease down its length
        Sometimes fold over elastic has a matte side & a shiny side – the shiny side is the ‘right’ side and the matte side is the ‘wrong’ side.

        Fold Over Elastic comes in a wide variety of colours & patterns – we have a great selection of printed options and almost every colour you can imagine!

        Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

        What is Fold Over Elastic Used for?

        Anywhere you need a stretchy binding in a funky colour or print really!

        Some popular project ideas for fold over elastic are:

        • Legs, waistbands and armholes on lingerie, underwear & swimwear
        • Edge finishes on shorts, vests and other undergarments
        • Edge finishes on sportswear/activewear
        • Cloth nappies
        • Edge finishes on expandable pouches and pockets on bags.
        • Simple knotted hair ties
        • Headbands
        • Face Masks

        It can be a nice way to add contrast accents or fun prints to your underwear, sportswear or knit/jersey fabric projects, whilst finishing the raw edges of your seams easily.

        It is usually used to finish armholes, leg holes, waistbands and necklines on garments that need a lot of recovery, and that stretch to stay close to the body with movement, like underwear and other undergarments like vests, tights and leggings.

        Fold over elastic can also be useful in bag making a lot in bag making too for pockets that would benefit from being taut to the bag like these

        Uses of fold over elastic - bag making

         

        From Lovelucie.org

        from Treasurie.com

        Fold Over Elastic can be sewn on a regular sewing machine, so no need to be wrestling with an overlocker or any fancy feet or accessories!

        Fold Over Elastic has a similar function to bias binding as it completely finishes a raw edge, but fold over elastic can stretch & recover so it keeps the edge close to the body, or it provides a taut edge for pockets on bags etc.

        Usually, the narrower the Fold Over Elastic, the more stretch it has, and the wider it is, the less it stretches. You can usually interchange different widths of Fold Over Elastic in your projects, but make sure you double-check you have the right length as differences in stretch means you will require different lengths, and account for the width in your seam allowances.

        Preparing and Cutting Fold Over Elastic

        Many patterns will call for you to cut your elastic to a specific length, but if no instructions are given, there is an easy way to figure out what length to cut your fold over elastic (or any elastic!) to.

        • Begin by measuring the lengths of the leg openings, waistband, or other pattern piece you are applying the elastic to.
        • Check the stretch of your elastic, if it’s really stretchy, you can get away with the elastic being a little shorter. If it’s quite hard to stretch, you will need the elastic to be a little longer.
        • The general rule is that elastic must be shorter than the length of the edge to which it is being applied to. Deduct 10% from the length of the edge, and this will give you your elastic length. You can also adjust this percentage up or down depending on the stretchiness of your elastic.

        e.g : 50cm is the length of the leg opening. 50-5cm =45cm. 

        45cm is the length of your elastic.

        Adjusting your pattern to use Fold Over Elastic

         

        Using Fold Over Elastic on the edge of your garment means that the edge is finished and enclosed at the width it is cut, so no fabric is removed due to a seam allowance, or folding under and hemming. If you want to use Fold Over Elastic on a project that requires a different finish (like regular elastic or picot trim elastic types), you will need to trim away the excess fabric before using the Elastic. Simply take your pattern piece and trim off the seam allowance width on the edges you want to apply the elastic to.

        If your pattern needs you to use Fold Over Elastic but you don’t have any to hand, and want to use a different finish on the edge, add the seam allowance or hem desired to the edges where the elastic or your other trim will be applied.

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        Sewing and Handling Tips for Fold Over Elastic

        • Needle – A jersey, stretch or ballpoint needle are the best choices, as these needles slide between the fibres rather than piercing them. You might be ok with a universal needle if that’s all you have – just make sure you test first.
        • Thread – Try to match the thread you use with the fibre that makes up the elastic. For most types of Fold Over Elastic a strong, polyester thread would work best, and would also help create strong stitches for any stretch or stress on the item you make. All-purpose Polyester thread is a good choice.
        • Stitch Type – Use either a medium zig zag or a 3 step zig-zag stitch. Set your machine to 2 wide with a stitch length of 2.5 to start then test. This is a good setting to start but stitch lengths/ widths will vary from project to project, so test first to see what works for you.
        • Sewing – Stretch the elastic a little when sewing to evenly distribute across the unfinished edge.
        • Sewing – Try to keep a slow steady pace whilst sewing, and avoid pulling the elastic or the fabric through the machine more than you need to. This will help you avoid gathers or puckers as you won’t stretch the fabric whilst sewing.
        • Sewing – Sew a sample swatch using a square of your final fabric and a length of Fold Over Elastic to help achieve the best tension. Playing around on your machine with a sample means you won’t spend time unpicking your final project if the tension is off. The best tension will vary significantly between different fabrics and elastics, even of the same composition or type.

        Have you read our Ultimate Guide To Sewing Needles post yet?

        How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

        Method 1 : The 2-step method

        This method is perfect for beginners as it secures the elastic and fabric in place before fully attaching the Fold Over Elastic. This means there is less chance of the elastic or fabric slipping out of place.

        The disadvantage of this method however, is that you can see the initial line of stitching from the wrong side of the garment once complete. 

        1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine. 

         

        fold over elastic method 1 step 1

        2. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

        This stitch line will only be visible from the wrong side of your finished garment, but secures the elastic in place on the back side of the fabric.

        fold over elastic method 1 step 2

        1. Carefully trim away the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
        2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place. 

         

        fold over elastic method 1 step 4
        1. Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch.

         

        fold over elastic method 1 step 5

         

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        Method 2 : The 1-step method

        This method creates the perfect enclosed edge, with a single line of stitching so it’s neater BUT it requires a little more patience and more pins.

        1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic.

        Line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place.

        To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine. 

        2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

         

        fold over elastic method 2 step 2
        1. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic. 

         

        fold over elastic method 2 step 3

        Method 3: The 1 step method (with a little help!)

        This is the same method as above, but with a little additional help that does not show on the final garment.

        1. Apply an adhesive, such as Quilters Tape,  Wundaweb or a regular glue pen (do not use runny glue or PVA) along the edge of the WS of the fabric. If the adhesive is wider than you FOE you can just trim it (or clean your iron after if you get in to trouble here!)
        2. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic & line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Press in place so the adhesive sticks to the back of the fabric and the Fold Over Elastic. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.
        3. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
        4. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

        Don’t worry about the garment edge being stiff, as both of these adhesives will dissolve after the first wash.

        Method 4: The 2 step method (with removable basting stitch)

        This is the same method as method 1, but with a basting stitch that can be removed easily.

        1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place if required. Hand stitch/baste in place by hand, using long, fairly loose stitches. Only secure with a knot at one end – this allows for easier removal.

        Fold over elastic hand baste method 1

         

        How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 2

        2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

         

        How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 3

         

        How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 4

        3. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic. 

        4. Flip over the elastic, and gently pull the basting stitch out of the fabric and elastic. If it is stuck, gently use a seam ripper or small pair of scissors to remove it.

        Sewing Fold Over Elastic in the round

        Sometimes you won’t be able to apply the Fold Over Elastic to a flat edge, where the seam is sewn after to join the two pieces. You will need to apply the Fold Over Elastic in the round on some patterns, on armholes, necklines and even some waistlines. 

        To do this, you need to sew together the ends of the Fold Over Elastic before you apply it to your garment. 

        There are two main methods;

        Method 1 – the straight join

        Simply sew across the ends of the Fold Over Elastic, once cut to the desired length, then pin and sew it to the rounded edge. You can use any of the above methods to apply it in one or two steps, but we recommend trimming away the excess fabric if using the two step method. 

        Method 2 – the mitred join

        A mitred or bias join is where the two ends of the Fold Over Elastic cross at a 90 degree angle instead of aligning as above. This allows you to ease the Fold Over Elastic into the round a little easier as there is ease on the bias as well as the stretch. You cross over the ends of the Fold Over Elastic at a 90 degree angle, then sew from point to point where the top end crosses the bottom end. Trim excess bulk from the seam and then apply as above.

         

         

         

         

        We hope you found this product guide helpful. Drop us a message with any comments or questions you have!

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        How To Use Waistband Extenders – No Sew!  Care & Repair Series #2

        How To Use Waistband Extenders – No Sew! Care & Repair Series #2

        Welcome to post number 2 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to a common problem – how to really quickly and easily extend a waistband… without any sewing! We’ll highlight this little wonder product and run you through why you might need them and how to use these waistband extenders.

        Let’s be real. The pandemic has meant that many of us have put on some extra pounds and clothes might have become a little snug!

        Or perhaps you’re in the early stages of pregnancy and could do with an extra bit of room before buying some maternity clothes?

        And let’s not forget – some days we’re just bigger than others… This can be due to our monthly cycles, or perhaps eating certain foods can make you bloat.

        You might need some extra comfort post-surgery, or just after a jolly good meal! Or perhaps something has shrunk in the wash (that old chestnut…!)

        Our bodies can even fluctuate in size from day to day so a quick temporary fix can help ease discomfort.

        We wanted to bring this little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!

        And as these nifty little extenders are a NO SEW temporary fix it means they can even be switched between garments to extend their life.

         

        How to use Waistband Extenders

        With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that are already in our wardrobes.

        300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK, making up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint, according to Wrap, the waste charity. There’s never been a more important tome to make do and mend.

        Being able to easily adjust the size of waistbands can help give them an extra lease of life and also improve their comfort by adding a little extra room. The wasit band extenders generally give you and extra will extend the waistline by approximately 2.5cm- 5cm on your waist band and are suitable for trousers, jeans or skirts.

        No need to replace perfectly good garments that haven’t worn out; this is better for our wallets and for the planet – win win!

        Extenders are not permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched out as required. Just make sure you remove them before laundering!

        The waist extenders come in a variety of options…. make sure you select the best match for your garment.

        You can also link multiple extenders together to achieve the level of fit you require – read to the end of this post to see this in action…

        How to use waist band extenders

          1. Select the Waist Band Extender product which best matches the fastening and colour of your garment. There are button, hooks and jean button products to choose from

        Waistband Expander

        2. Thread the existing fastening through one of the holes on the extender piece

        3. Thread the fastening on the extender through the garment hole

        Voila! Extra comfort at the waist in a jiffy!

        Check out Hemline’s video here to see how the hook product works

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        Linking Waistband Extenders Together

        Should you need even greater ease at the waistband, the extenders can be looped together to create a larger stretch like this.

        See how easy it is to prolong the life of your garment if it’s become a bit snug!

        What is Manilla Pattern Card?

        What is Manilla Pattern Card?

        Ever heard of manilla pattern card and wondered what it is, and how it’s used in the sewing industry?

        This special card is used extensively by industry professionals, pattern cutters, dressmakers & couture houses alike. It is specifically manufactured for making dressmaking pattern pieces and pattern cutting blocks more durable.

        But why leave this amazing product for the professionals to benefit from when the home sewist can find so many uses for it?!

        If you have a “Tried & Tested” dressmaking pattern you might want to consider investing in some Manila pattern card to preserve the life of your perfect pattern pieces, as well as making them easier for you to trace around.

        If you are pattern cutting at home or tracing standard blocks, using this card means they can your pattern pieces be used over and again as a starting point for all basic garments.

        Although we are focussing on dressmaking patterns here, this versatile card can be used for any of your sewing patterns… Think bag patterns, pouch patterns, bib patterns toy patterns… In fact, ANY pattern that you find yourself using time and time again would benefit from being traced on to this card.

        In this guide we’ll not only give you the low down about this Pro-Product, but we’ll also walk you through two ways you can trace off and preserve one of your beloved patterns on to this useful card.

        What is Manilla Pattern Making Card?

         

        Used in garment making and pattern cutting, this card is thick & weighty enough to lay flat when cutting patterns. No pins are needed and minimal pattern weights are required, so it saves time in the long run.

        Even though it’s durable, this card is also thin & lightweight enough to cut, fold, roll and store easily at home.

        It is made by gluing 2 sheets of manilla card together once manufactured. This gives the card a smooth, firm and hard wearing surface and a clean tracing edge on pattern pieces & blocks.

        What are the benefits of using pattern template card?

          • Tracing patterns on to manilla card will preserve the longevity of your sewing patterns that can get easily damaged through repeated use
          • Save time when tracing or cutting patterns as pins are not required
          • You get a sharp edge on your pattern piece to trace around making it easier with a rotary cutter or fabric pen

          How to preserve a dressmaking pattern

          How to preserve a dressmaking pattern

          Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

          You Will Need:

          New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post

          How to Transfer a Pattern On To Pattern Card

          Method 1: Use Pattern Weights

           

          This method is particularly useful for preserving basic core pattern blocks, that will be traced around many times

          1) Cut out your pattern piece on to pattern tracing paper, including any marks, dots and notches. Swedish Tracing Paper is ideal to use here

          2) Lay the pattern piece flat on top of the card, using pattern weights. It needs to be completely flat so you may want to press it before proceeding.

          3) Trace around all edges and markings of your pattern piece, using a long ruler or french curve to ensure you are creating accurate lines.

          5) Remove the pattern piece, and cut around your new card pattern. Transfer any markings, such as notches and dots, using an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

          Have you seen our Swedish Tracing Paper Guide? It’s pattern paper you can sew! Check out this post for more info

          6) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

          Or you can trace around them to quickly create markings for your basic block on paper, which can then be adapted to make a new pattern design.

          Use a hole punch to create a hole in the pattern piece, and you can store them on thread, string or a wire hook to hang them on a rail.

          Method 2: use Glue

           

          In this method you glue your pattern piece to the card and then cut round the edge. All of your pattern markings will already be visible for the original pattern piece

          1) Using a glue stick (ideally a fairly ‘dry’ glue that isn’t too wet and won’t cause your pattern to wrinkle) or a spray adhesive stick your paper pattern to the pattern card.

          You can either cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet, or do it piece by piece. You will get a neater result sticking the pattern down as a full sheet. 

          Cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet

          2) Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots. Use an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

          Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots.

          3) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

          And you’re done!

          We hope your found this product guide and tutorial on how to preserve a pattern on manilla card helpful


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