Corduroy, once reserved for the halls of academia and the closets of the artistically inclined, this ribbed sensation is proving it’s not just for the elite. It’s for anyone bold enough to make a statement!

History of Corduroy: From Royal Robes to Runway

Unraveling Corduroy’s Name: A Nod to French Royalty

How’s that for a royal endorsement?!

This moniker harks back to an era when corduroy wasn’t just fabric; it was a symbol of service and loyalty, woven into the very uniforms of French royal servants during the opulent 17th and 18th centuries.

Today, the notion that corduroy once dressed the servants of French royals adds a layer of historical intrigue to our modern appreciation of the fabric. It’s a testament to corduroy’s versatility and enduring popularity.

Decoding the Mystery of Wale: Corduroy’s Signature Move

Wale 101: The Basics

A wale count refers to the number of ribs per inch. High wale counts mean finer, denser ribs (think sleek and sophisticated), while lower counts are all about that bold, textured look (hello, statement piece!). Choosing the right wale is like choosing the right accessory for an outfit—it can make or break your look.

Choosing Your Wale: A Style Statement

For those of you daring to make a splash in the fashion pond, a lower wale count screams boldness and texture. It’s the perfect choice for a standout jacket or a chic pair of trews. On the flip side, a higher wale count lends a subtle elegance, ideal for dresses or shirts where you’re aiming for a refined vibe… or for children’s clothing.

Sewing with Corduroy: Mastering the Nap

The nap is not just something you crave after a long day, but in this context, the nap is the direction in which those cozy little ridges lie. And here’s the kicker: treat it right, and it’ll make your piece a masterpiece. Ignore it, and well… let’s just say your project could end up feeling a bit against the grain.

Why the Nap Matters

When sewing with corduroy, aligning the nap is crucial. It affects the colour and sheen of your garment. Light hits those ridges differently depending on their direction, giving your piece that lush, velvety look.

Here’s some sewing tips when handling corduroy

1. Cut in One Direction: Always cut your pattern pieces in the same direction. Consistency is key to avoiding a mismatched, patchwork appearance.
2. Cut with Care: Corduroy demands precision in cutting. Those wales are vertical lines and it will be so obvious if you cut your fabric on the wonk. Lay your fabric flat, ensuring all pieces are aligned in the same direction, and measure the grain line arrow parallel to the selvage edge – make sure it’s even, ok?!
3. Mark the Nap Direction: Before you cut, take a moment to mark the direction of the nap on the back of your fabric. A simple arrow with tailor’s chalk can save you a world of confusion later.
4. Pinning and Marking: Use fine, sharp pins to avoid marking the fabric’s surface. Consider using tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker for any markings.
5. The Right Needle and Thread: An 80/20 needle is a safe bet with a stitch length of 2.3-3mm. Paired with a strong, high-quality thread, will help you stitch through corduroy’s ridges. You may wish to loosen your top tension or use a walking foot if you find the fabric is travelling a little – the nap might cause this to happen.
6. Stitches and Seams: Opt for slightly longer stitches to accommodate the fabric’s thickness and texture. When it comes to seams, pressing open and trimming or grading seam allowances will reduce bulk and maintain the garment’s silhouette.
7. Pressing Matters: Pressing corduroy requires a gentle touch. Use a press cloth to protect the nap from becoming crushed or shiny. Steam and a lifting motion, rather than dragging the iron, will keep the fabric’s texture intact. Think of it as grooming a thoroughbred; finesse is key.
8. Handling Stretch Corduroy: If you’re venturing into the realm of stretch corduroy, remember to use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch setting on your machine.
9. Finishing Touches: Consider serging or using a zigzag stitch on raw edges to prevent fraying. For a truly noble finish, adding a lining can elevate your garment, providing both comfort and a glimpse of luxury befitting its royal roots.
10. Embrace the Nap for Texture: Feeling adventurous? Use the nap to add texture and depth to your design. A pocket or collar against the nap can add a subtle contrast, making your piece pop. Be warned though – a little goes a long way.

Join the Corduroy Appreciation Club

Love this dive into corduroy’s storied past? Subscribe for more textile tales, and don’t forget to ❤️ and share your thoughts below. Feel free to spill your ‘corduroy confessions’ in the comments – I’d really appreciate it!