If you are venturing into the world of dressmaking and feel ready to challenge yourself a bit further, a half circle skirt is a great next step. There are super useful skills and techniques to be learnt here, and step by step you will find yourself with something new to wear.
If you want to grow your confidence a little more 1st, why not try our quick elasticated waistband skirt tutorial. Whichever option you choose, you will be making something to measure and gaining valuable experience (as well as a nice outfit!).
A sewing project for adventurous beginners
You will learn:
- How to use pattern template card
- How to draft a pattern
- How to insert an invisible zip
- How to use waist shaper interfacing
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You will need:
Cotton lawn fabric* (We used: Regency cotton lawn – Floral sprays on blue)
8” Invisible zip (we used: 8” Navy invisible zip)
Waist shaper* (we used: White waist shaper)
15mm seam tape (we used: white seam tape)
Thread (we used: Gutermann colour 759)
*see step 6 for required quantity. There is a guide on using Cotton Lawn here.
What is pattern template card?
There are some patterns that once made, will be revisited time and time again. Especially a wardrobe staple; a made to measure half circle template has functionality beyond a standalone skirt, combined with a bodice pattern it will also work in various other projects.
Not forgetting utility sewing projects, for favourite tutorials, a pre-drafted template speeds up the process when making more. While pattern paper can suffice, it’s delicate nature does limit its life as a template.
Benefits of pattern template card
- It makes durable sewing pattern pieces/ templates
- Long lasting
- Has a strong edge for cutting/ marking clean lines
- Doesn’t lose shape
- Thick enough to sit flat and hold it’s shape
- Thin enough to cut, mark and fold or roll
- Easy to draw on
- Can be ironed at a low heat
Additional information:
· Pattern card will have crease marks when stored folded. Ideally store flat/ hung: Use a clip coat hanger, pattern hook or make holes with a hole punch and thread cord through for hanging pieces together. For quick future reference add a pattern card to the pattern when storing with details of size, any potential adjustments/ additional items needed, examples of projects the pattern was used on etc
What is Waist Shaper?
Vlieseline / Vilene Waist Shaper is a durable easy to use product that can save lots of time. It is a fusible interfacing strip, with 3 lines of cut out markings that work as a guide for pressing. In terms of texture/ drape, it has the feel of light to medium weight interfacing.
Benefits of Waist shaper
- Makes cutting a length of fabric quicker and more accurate
- Speeds up pressing
- Fusible
- Reduces measuring/ marking time
- Easy to use
- Adds structure
- Gives a crisp edge
- Machine washable up to 95 degrees
- Can be dry cleaned
- 2 colour options
Uses for Waist shaper
- Waistbands
- Bag straps
- Wrist loops
- Keyrings
- Handles
Additional information
Best suited for medium to heavy fabrics
Important notes
1cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturers care advice.
1. Measure the following:
Waist
Required length
If measuring isn’t possible, online size guides for clothing retailers may provide the information required
How to calculate the measurements for a half circle skirt
2. Work out the maths! For the skirt the following needs to be calculated:
- Measure your waist size and then multiply by 2. This will give your waist circumference
For example: If your waist measure 71cm: 71cm x 2 = 142cm
- Measure how long you wish your skirt to be (eg waist to your knee) Take your measurement and + 2cm
For example: I wish my skirt length to be 56cm
56cm + 2 = 58cm
3. Using your waist circumference measurement calculate the radius & note it down:
i) Waist circumference measurement / 3.141
For example:
142cm / 3.141 = 45.2cm (diameter)
ii) Then divide the answer by 2
For example 45.2 / 2 = 22.6 Inner Radius
If the calculations are tricky, try this online calculator, enter the waist circumference calculated in step 3, check the units are cm, then make a note of the radius
4. Add the inner radius and total length:
For example:
22.6 + 58 = 80.6 Total radius
Calculate how much fabric is needed
5. With these figures, the fabric requirements can be calculated:
- The total width of fabric needed is the total radius measurement.
- The total length of fabric needed will be double the total radius measurement (for example, 80.6cm = 161.2cm).
- Depending on the fabric width/ pattern the waistband piece will either fit beside the skirt or fabric will need adding on to the length.
Always allow slightly more, for shrinkage etc. and consider the pattern direction; the fabric in a half circle skirt pans around so directional prints aren’t always suitable, though with careful planning, can make a bold statement.
How to draft the pattern template
6. For the waistband mark a template that measures: your waist size + 2cm x 7cm
To make the piece more economical and easier to store, the length can be halved and the pattern piece labelled ‘cut on fold’ along one of the short edges.
7. Straighten up the short edge on the pattern template card, ensuring the corners are square
8. Position the end of a tape measure in one of the corners. From that point, measure up along one of the sides and make a mark at the inner radius measurement (for example, 22.6cm)
9. With the end of the tape always in the corner, pivot the other end of the tape 2cm away from the 1st mark and make another mark at the same measurement. Continue to make marks at 2cm intervals until the tape lies along the other folded edge, forming a ¼ circle
10. From the same corner, repeat steps 8. and 9. marking the total radius measurement (for example, 80.6)
11. Draw 2 lines joining each series of markings to form two ¼ circles, one small and one larger
12. Mark a ‘cut on fold’ label along one of the straight edges between the two ¼ circles
13. Label both templates half circle skirt, include the waist measurement and length (step 1) and cut it out
How to sew a half circle skirt
14. Starting with the skirt piece; Fold the fabric with an overlap long enough to accommodate the whole template.
The fold line will form the centre front of the skirt; consider the positioning, especially with directional prints
15. Position the template on the fabric with one straight edge along the fold. The other edge needs a minimum 1cm fabric overhang
16. Cut around the template, through both layers of fabric, adding an extra 1cm of fabric along the edge that isn’t folded for the seam allowance
How to apply the Vlieseline waist shaper
17. Using the waistband template, cut the waist shaper to length
18. Position the Waist shaper on the remaining fabric
Consider the position; the centre of the waistband’s length will end up as the top edge of the finished waistband. Fold the waist trainer in half lengthways, if needed, to help planning. The centre widthways will be the finished centre front of the skirt
19. Iron the waist shaper onto the fabric, using heat setting 2, no steam. Pressing each area for 8 seconds
20. Allow 30 minutes for the waist shaper to cool and the adhesive to cure
21. Cut out the waistband
22. Using the markings as a guide, fold the waistband in half lengthways and press
23. Fold in and press the 2 outer rows of markings, tucking in the raw edges
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How to attach the waistband
24. Find the quarter points around the top of the skirt and waistband and mark:
On the skirt, bring the 2 straight edges together and smooth the fabric out to the side, where the fabric folds along the smallest curved edge make a mark. Fold it in half again and mark where the 2 creases form
On the waistband, align the 2 short edges and fold the waistband in half, make a mark where it folds. Fold it in half again and mark where 2 the creases form
25. Sew a loose gather stitch around the top edge of the skirt 5mm from the edge. The purpose of this is to help with ease (fitting the skirt to the waistband), not to gather
26. Open out the waist band and line up the ¼ points with those on the skirt, right sides together, edges aligned and pin
27. Pin the fabric between the ¼ points
There often appears to be an excess of fabric here, distribute it evenly between the markings using the gather stitches to avoid puckers forming
28. Sew the waistband and skirt together easing the fabric as it runs through the machine to prevent puckering
29. Press the seam allowance toward the waistband
How to insert a concealed zip
30. Cut two 18cm lengths of seam tape
31. Apply the tape to the wrong side of the skirt just below the waistband following the 2 straight edges
32. Tidy the 2 straight edges of the skirt, using either zig zag stitch (length 2, width 3, tying the ends to secure) or an overlocker
33. Test the zip
34. With the zip open, carefully press the teeth over towards the opening, taking care not to melt the teeth
35. With the open zip right side down and skirt right side up. Line up the outer edge (no teeth) of the zipper tape along the straight edge of the skirt, the top zip stop butting up to the central fold in the waistband
36. Pin the zip tape to the skirt, ensuring the waistband seam allowance is upwards
37. Pull the zip slider upwards to check it doesn’t exceed the fold in the waistband when closed
38. Open the zip and sew in place using a concealed zipper foot. The zip teeth should tuck into the groove in the foot and the needle will sew tight to them (check manufacturers advice for the foot being used)
A concealed zipper foot lifts the teeth so the stitch line runs tight to them. Sew up to the zipper pull and back stitch. Unlike sewing a zip with a standard zipper foot, moving the pull to sew the end of the tape cannot be achieved with a concealed zipper foot so the end remains unsewn and unused in the finished opening
Once sewn the stitch line is invisible from the inside of the garment as it is tucked under the teeth. A normal zipper foot can be used with the needle set as far across as possible, though it is difficult to lift the teeth and sew the stitch line under them using this method. The finished result is less concealed zip
39. Bring the 2 sides of the skirt right sides together and fasten the zip
40. Ensure the waistband of the skirt lines up on both sides of the zip and the tape isn’t twisted, and pin
41. Repeat step 38. for the pinned side of the zip
Sewing the centre back seam
42. Pin the 2 straight edges together and sew up to the zip stitch lines to form the centre back seam
Take care when sewing near the end of the zip. Tuck the zip end up to avoid catching it in the seam. Using a standard zipper foot makes it easier to sew alongside the end of the zip and meet the zip stitch lines
43. Press the seam allowances open
Finish sewing the waistband
44. Fold over and pin the waistband so the edge on the inside of the skirt slightly overhangs the edge on the outside
45. At each end of the waistband fold back the ends a little more than the front to prevent them obstructing the zip pull
46. From the right side of the waistband either top stitch 2mm from the bottom edge or stitch in a ditch. Both methods will secure the inside of the waistband
Sew a rolled hem
47. Starting next to the centre back seam, fold over approx. 2mm of the hem, fold it again to form a thin hemline and pin
48. Repeat step 47., at the seam ends, tucking the edges of the seam allowance into the folds
49. Starting at the centre back seam, position the hem under the presser foot right side down. Either use a rolled hem foot or form the rolled hem manually: sew close to the inner fold, folding and sewing around the bottom edge of the skirt until the start point is reached. Take care to not stretch the fabric as it approaches the needle
50. Turn the skirt out the right way and press
And you’re finished, well done!
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We hope you found this tutorial useful!
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