Fabric Information Guide - Plush Addict Blog

The Corduroy Comeback: More Than Just a Fabric, It’s a Statement!

by admin | Nov 4, 2024 | Corduroy, Fabric, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide

Corduroy, once reserved for the halls of academia and the closets of the artistically inclined, this ribbed sensation is proving it’s not just for the elite. It’s for anyone bold enough to make a statement!

History of Corduroy: From Royal Robes to Runway

Ah, corduroy, the fabric that’s lived a thousand lives, from the cloisters of kings to the closets of college students and beyond. Its journey through the annals of fashion history is as rich and textured as the fabric itself. So, how did this ribbed marvel become the beloved material we know and sew today?

Unraveling Corduroy’s Name: A Nod to French Royalty

Dive a little deeper into the etymology of our beloved fabric, and you’ll find that “Corduroy,” believe it or not, tips its hat to the French phrase *cord du roi*, translating to “cloth of the king.”

How’s that for a royal endorsement?!

This moniker harks back to an era when corduroy wasn’t just fabric; it was a symbol of service and loyalty, woven into the very uniforms of French royal servants during the opulent 17th and 18th centuries.

Today, the notion that corduroy once dressed the servants of French royals adds a layer of historical intrigue to our modern appreciation of the fabric. It’s a testament to corduroy’s versatility and enduring popularity.

Decoding the Mystery of Wale: Corduroy’s Signature Move

What’s in a wale? Wale, in corduroy terms, refers to those distinctive vertical ribs or cords that give the fabric its personality and texture. But here’s where it gets interesting: the size of the wale can completely transform the look and feel of your garment.

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Wale 101: The Basics

A wale count refers to the number of ribs per inch. High wale counts mean finer, denser ribs (think sleek and sophisticated), while lower counts are all about that bold, textured look (hello, statement piece!). Choosing the right wale is like choosing the right accessory for an outfit—it can make or break your look.

Choosing Your Wale: A Style Statement

For those of you daring to make a splash in the fashion pond, a lower wale count screams boldness and texture. It’s the perfect choice for a standout jacket or a chic pair of trews. On the flip side, a higher wale count lends a subtle elegance, ideal for dresses or shirts where you’re aiming for a refined vibe… or for children’s clothing.

Sewing with Corduroy: Mastering the Nap

Corduroy, with its unique texture and depth, can be a sewist’s dream or nightmare. Why? It’s all in the nap.

The nap is not just something you crave after a long day, but in this context, the nap is the direction in which those cozy little ridges lie. And here’s the kicker: treat it right, and it’ll make your piece a masterpiece. Ignore it, and well… let’s just say your project could end up feeling a bit against the grain.

Why the Nap Matters

When sewing with corduroy, aligning the nap is crucial. It affects the colour and sheen of your garment. Light hits those ridges differently depending on their direction, giving your piece that lush, velvety look.

Here’s some sewing tips when handling corduroy

Cut in One Direction: Always cut your pattern pieces in the same direction. Consistency is key to avoiding a mismatched, patchwork appearance.
Cut with Care: Corduroy demands precision in cutting. Those wales are vertical lines and it will be so obvious if you cut your fabric on the wonk. Lay your fabric flat, ensuring all pieces are aligned in the same direction, and measure the grain line arrow parallel to the selvage edge – make sure it’s even, ok?!
Mark the Nap Direction: Before you cut, take a moment to mark the direction of the nap on the back of your fabric. A simple arrow with tailor’s chalk can save you a world of confusion later.
Pinning and Marking: Use fine, sharp pins to avoid marking the fabric’s surface. Consider using tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker for any markings.
The Right Needle and Thread: An 80/20 needle is a safe bet with a stitch length of 2.3-3mm. Paired with a strong, high-quality thread, will help you stitch through corduroy’s ridges. You may wish to loosen your top tension or use a walking foot if you find the fabric is travelling a little – the nap might cause this to happen.
Stitches and Seams: Opt for slightly longer stitches to accommodate the fabric’s thickness and texture. When it comes to seams, pressing open and trimming or grading seam allowances will reduce bulk and maintain the garment’s silhouette.
Pressing Matters: Pressing corduroy requires a gentle touch. Use a press cloth to protect the nap from becoming crushed or shiny. Steam and a lifting motion, rather than dragging the iron, will keep the fabric’s texture intact. Think of it as grooming a thoroughbred; finesse is key.
Handling Stretch Corduroy: If you’re venturing into the realm of stretch corduroy, remember to use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch setting on your machine.
Finishing Touches: Consider serging or using a zigzag stitch on raw edges to prevent fraying. For a truly noble finish, adding a lining can elevate your garment, providing both comfort and a glimpse of luxury befitting its royal roots.
Embrace the Nap for Texture: Feeling adventurous? Use the nap to add texture and depth to your design. A pocket or collar against the nap can add a subtle contrast, making your piece pop. Be warned though – a little goes a long way.

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Join the Corduroy Appreciation Club

What’s your take on corduroy? Is it a fashion yes, or a hard no?

Love this dive into corduroy’s storied past? Subscribe for more textile tales, and don’t forget to ❤️ and share your thoughts below. Feel free to spill your ‘corduroy confessions’ in the comments – I’d really appreciate it!

How to Enlarge A Collar With A Collar Expander – No Sew! Care & Repair Series #4

by Kellie Rose | Aug 21, 2022 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Welcome to post number 4 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to an annoying problem – how to enlarge a collar that is too tight… without any sewing! We’re going to be talking about how to use use a collar expander in this quick product guide.

We wanted to bring these little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!

These nifty little extenders are NO SEW and a great little temporary fix that can even be switched between garments.

With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus all sorts of different ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that we already own.

A shocking 300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK. according to Wrap, the waste charity, this is up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint. And small things like this can really add up.

Being able to adjust the size of a collar that’s snug can help give a shirt a longer life. These collar expanders can also be used on skirt or trouser waistbands too!

Expanders aren’t permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched between different shirts – just make sure you take them out before your shirt goes in the wash!

The collar expanders come in a variety of sizes and finishes…. make sure you select the best match for your garment, although it’s unlikely you will see it if you’re wearing a tie, you do need to make sure the collar expander will fit through your garment’s existing buttonhole

These plastic collar extenders will increase the neck size of a shirt by half a collar size and do not stretch.

The other metal extenders do stretch and come in a variety of sizes

How to Enlarge A Collar With A Collar Expander

Choose the collar extender that best matches your garment

Take the white disc in your fingers and feed the loop through the buttonhole.

Collar Extenders Step 2 - Feed the loop through the buttonhole

Loop the band over the existing button on the collar.

Collar Extenders Step 3 - Loop the band over the existing button

Alternatively you can start by looping the loop around the existing button and then feeding the white disc through the buttonhole.

5. This is what the collar extenders look like when used correctly.

6. The larger collar extenders can also be used for waistbands. You need to match the size of the disc on the Expanders as closely as possible to the original button.

And that’s it! It really couldn’t be more simple, could it?

Check out Hemline’s video for a demo of the metal variety, which are stretchy, rather than fixed like this one

Thank you for supporting our online shop with your sewing shopping… It means the world to us & enables us to keep putting out FREE content like this for you to make & create ❤️

Linking Collar or Waist Expanders Together

Should you need greater ease at the waistband or collar, the expanders can be looped together to create a larger stretch like this.

So you can see how easy it is to prolong the life of your garment if it’s become a bit snug.

Stay tuned for more posts in our Care & Repair series

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How To Use Fold Over Elastic

by Kellie Rose | May 3, 2022 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guide, Product Guides, Tutorials

Have you heard about fold over elastic? Ever wondered what this product is, where it can be used and how to apply fold over elastic?

You’re in the right place! In this product guide we’re going to shine a light on all things fold over elastic so grab a cuppa and read on!

In this Fold Over Elastic product guide we will be covering:

What Is Fold Over Elastic
What Is Fold Over Elastic Used for?
How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

What is Fold Over Elastic?

Fold Over Elastic (or ‘FOE’ for short) is a thin, lightweight, flat elastic which has a crease down the centre of its length. The crease makes it easy to fold in half along the length, encasing the seam edge of your pattern piece.

Fold over elastic or FOE - thin lightweight flat elastic with crease down its length

Sometimes fold over elastic has a matte side & a shiny side – the shiny side is the ‘right’ side and the matte side is the ‘wrong’ side.

Fold Over Elastic comes in a wide variety of colours & patterns – we have a great selection of printed options and almost every colour you can imagine!

CHECK OUT OUR FOLD OVER ELASTIC RANGE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

What is Fold Over Elastic Used for?

Anywhere you need a stretchy binding in a funky colour or print really!

Some popular project ideas for fold over elastic are:

Legs, waistbands and armholes on lingerie, underwear & swimwear
Edge finishes on shorts, vests and other undergarments
Edge finishes on sportswear/activewear
Cloth nappies
Edge finishes on expandable pouches and pockets on bags.
Simple knotted hair ties
Headbands
Face Masks

It can be a nice way to add contrast accents or fun prints to your underwear, sportswear or knit/jersey fabric projects, whilst finishing the raw edges of your seams easily.

It is usually used to finish armholes, leg holes, waistbands and necklines on garments that need a lot of recovery, and that stretch to stay close to the body with movement, like underwear and other undergarments like vests, tights and leggings.

Fold over elastic can also be useful in bag making a lot in bag making too for pockets that would benefit from being taut to the bag like these

Uses of fold over elastic - bag making — From Lovelucie.org

READ OUR 11 TIPS FOR SEWING MESH FABRIC

Fold Over Elastic can be sewn on a regular sewing machine, so no need to be wrestling with an overlocker or any fancy feet or accessories!

Fold Over Elastic has a similar function to bias binding as it completely finishes a raw edge, but fold over elastic can stretch & recover so it keeps the edge close to the body, or it provides a taut edge for pockets on bags etc.

Usually, the narrower the Fold Over Elastic, the more stretch it has, and the wider it is, the less it stretches. You can usually interchange different widths of Fold Over Elastic in your projects, but make sure you double-check you have the right length as differences in stretch means you will require different lengths, and account for the width in your seam allowances.

Preparing and Cutting Fold Over Elastic

Many patterns will call for you to cut your elastic to a specific length, but if no instructions are given, there is an easy way to figure out what length to cut your fold over elastic (or any elastic!) to.

Begin by measuring the lengths of the leg openings, waistband, or other pattern piece you are applying the elastic to.
Check the stretch of your elastic, if it’s really stretchy, you can get away with the elastic being a little shorter. If it’s quite hard to stretch, you will need the elastic to be a little longer.
The general rule is that elastic must be shorter than the length of the edge to which it is being applied to. Deduct 10% from the length of the edge, and this will give you your elastic length. You can also adjust this percentage up or down depending on the stretchiness of your elastic.

e.g : 50cm is the length of the leg opening. 50-5cm =45cm.

45cm is the length of your elastic.

Adjusting your pattern to use Fold Over Elastic

Using Fold Over Elastic on the edge of your garment means that the edge is finished and enclosed at the width it is cut, so no fabric is removed due to a seam allowance, or folding under and hemming. If you want to use Fold Over Elastic on a project that requires a different finish (like regular elastic or picot trim elastic types), you will need to trim away the excess fabric before using the Elastic. Simply take your pattern piece and trim off the seam allowance width on the edges you want to apply the elastic to.

If your pattern needs you to use Fold Over Elastic but you don’t have any to hand, and want to use a different finish on the edge, add the seam allowance or hem desired to the edges where the elastic or your other trim will be applied.

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Sewing and Handling Tips for Fold Over Elastic

Needle – A jersey, stretch or ballpoint needle are the best choices, as these needles slide between the fibres rather than piercing them. You might be ok with a universal needle if that’s all you have – just make sure you test first.
Thread – Try to match the thread you use with the fibre that makes up the elastic. For most types of Fold Over Elastic a strong, polyester thread would work best, and would also help create strong stitches for any stretch or stress on the item you make. All-purpose Polyester thread is a good choice.
Stitch Type – Use either a medium zig zag or a 3 step zig-zag stitch. Set your machine to 2 wide with a stitch length of 2.5 to start then test. This is a good setting to start but stitch lengths/ widths will vary from project to project, so test first to see what works for you.
Sewing – Stretch the elastic a little when sewing to evenly distribute across the unfinished edge.
Sewing – Try to keep a slow steady pace whilst sewing, and avoid pulling the elastic or the fabric through the machine more than you need to. This will help you avoid gathers or puckers as you won’t stretch the fabric whilst sewing.
Sewing – Sew a sample swatch using a square of your final fabric and a length of Fold Over Elastic to help achieve the best tension. Playing around on your machine with a sample means you won’t spend time unpicking your final project if the tension is off. The best tension will vary significantly between different fabrics and elastics, even of the same composition or type.

Have you read our Ultimate Guide To Sewing Needles post yet?

How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

Method 1 : The 2-step method

This method is perfect for beginners as it secures the elastic and fabric in place before fully attaching the Fold Over Elastic. This means there is less chance of the elastic or fabric slipping out of place.

The disadvantage of this method however, is that you can see the initial line of stitching from the wrong side of the garment once complete.

Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.

2. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

This stitch line will only be visible from the wrong side of your finished garment, but secures the elastic in place on the back side of the fabric.

Carefully trim away the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place.

Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch.

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Method 2 : The 1-step method

This method creates the perfect enclosed edge, with a single line of stitching so it’s neater BUT it requires a little more patience and more pins.

Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic.

Line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place.

To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.

2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

Method 3: The 1 step method (with a little help!)

This is the same method as above, but with a little additional help that does not show on the final garment.

Apply an adhesive, such as Quilters Tape, Wundaweb or a regular glue pen (do not use runny glue or PVA) along the edge of the WS of the fabric. If the adhesive is wider than you FOE you can just trim it (or clean your iron after if you get in to trouble here!)
Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic & line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Press in place so the adhesive sticks to the back of the fabric and the Fold Over Elastic. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.
Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

Don’t worry about the garment edge being stiff, as both of these adhesives will dissolve after the first wash.

Method 4: The 2 step method (with removable basting stitch)

This is the same method as method 1, but with a basting stitch that can be removed easily.

Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place if required. Hand stitch/baste in place by hand, using long, fairly loose stitches. Only secure with a knot at one end – this allows for easier removal.

How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 2

2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 3

How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 4

3. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

4. Flip over the elastic, and gently pull the basting stitch out of the fabric and elastic. If it is stuck, gently use a seam ripper or small pair of scissors to remove it.

Sewing Fold Over Elastic in the round

Sometimes you won’t be able to apply the Fold Over Elastic to a flat edge, where the seam is sewn after to join the two pieces. You will need to apply the Fold Over Elastic in the round on some patterns, on armholes, necklines and even some waistlines.

To do this, you need to sew together the ends of the Fold Over Elastic before you apply it to your garment.

There are two main methods;

Method 1 – the straight join

Simply sew across the ends of the Fold Over Elastic, once cut to the desired length, then pin and sew it to the rounded edge. You can use any of the above methods to apply it in one or two steps, but we recommend trimming away the excess fabric if using the two step method.

fold over elastic straight join method 1

Method 2 – the mitred join

A mitred or bias join is where the two ends of the Fold Over Elastic cross at a 90 degree angle instead of aligning as above. This allows you to ease the Fold Over Elastic into the round a little easier as there is ease on the bias as well as the stretch. You cross over the ends of the Fold Over Elastic at a 90 degree angle, then sew from point to point where the top end crosses the bottom end. Trim excess bulk from the seam and then apply as above.

We hope you found this product guide helpful. Drop us a message with any comments or questions you have!

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How To Use Waistband Extenders – No Sew! Care & Repair Series #2

by Kellie Rose | Apr 27, 2022 | Care and Repair, Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing

Welcome to post number 2 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to a common problem – how to really quickly and easily extend a waistband… without any sewing! We’ll highlight this little wonder product and run you through why you might need them and how to use these waistband extenders.

Let’s be real. The pandemic has meant that many of us have put on some extra pounds and clothes might have become a little snug!

Or perhaps you’re in the early stages of pregnancy and could do with an extra bit of room before buying some maternity clothes?

And let’s not forget – some days we’re just bigger than others… This can be due to our monthly cycles, or perhaps eating certain foods can make you bloat.

You might need some extra comfort post-surgery, or just after a jolly good meal! Or perhaps something has shrunk in the wash (that old chestnut…!)

Our bodies can even fluctuate in size from day to day so a quick temporary fix can help ease discomfort.

We wanted to bring this little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!

And as these nifty little extenders are a NO SEW temporary fix it means they can even be switched between garments to extend their life.

With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that are already in our wardrobes.

300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK, making up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint, according to Wrap, the waste charity. There’s never been a more important tome to make do and mend.

Being able to easily adjust the size of waistbands can help give them an extra lease of life and also improve their comfort by adding a little extra room. The wasit band extenders generally give you and extra will extend the waistline by approximately 2.5cm- 5cm on your waist band and are suitable for trousers, jeans or skirts.

No need to replace perfectly good garments that haven’t worn out; this is better for our wallets and for the planet – win win!

Extenders are not permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched out as required. Just make sure you remove them before laundering!

The waist extenders come in a variety of options…. make sure you select the best match for your garment.

You can also link multiple extenders together to achieve the level of fit you require – read to the end of this post to see this in action…

How to use waist band extenders

Select the Waist Band Extender product which best matches the fastening and colour of your garment. There are button, hooks and jean button products to choose from

Waistband Expander

2. Thread the existing fastening through one of the holes on the extender piece

3. Thread the fastening on the extender through the garment hole

Voila! Extra comfort at the waist in a jiffy!

Check out Hemline’s video here to see how the hook product works

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Linking Waistband Extenders Together

Should you need even greater ease at the waistband, the extenders can be looped together to create a larger stretch like this.

See how easy it is to prolong the life of your garment if it’s become a bit snug!

What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?

by Kellie Rose | Dec 29, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Haberdashery Guide, My Makes, Product Guides, Project Ideas, Tutorials

Swedish Tracing Paper is a type of dressmaking pattern tracing paper that is fairly translucent, drapeable and best of all – it’s pattern paper that is sewable! This makes it an incredible choice for making muslins or toiles whilst dressmaking.

In this guide we’re going to talk you through the product, as well as offer a tutorial on how to use this amazing dressmaking pattern paper & how using it can save you both time AND fabric!

What is Swedish Tracing Paper?

Unlike conventional pattern drafting paper that can tear or crumple easily, Swedish tracing paper can be used to

Trace dressmaking patterns
Alter patterns
Sew pattern pieces traced on to Swedish Tracing Paper together to make a muslin & get an idea of fit
Easily mark pattern alterations on to

It’s super useful and will save you time and fabric! You could easily skip making a muslin or toile from Calico fabric and use Swedish Tracing Paper instead.

New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post

What is Swedish Tracing Paper made from?

Swedish tracing paper is made from eco-friendly abaca fibres, making it compostable & environmentally friendly. The tightly packed, jumbled fibres make it more tear-resistant than regular pattern paper yet it’s still translucent enough to see through for tracing .

You can sew Swedish tracing paper in the same way you would sew regular ‘muslin’ fabrics using a universal needle and thread.

You can baste your traced pattern pieces together with a long stitch on your sewing machine. Once sewn you can easily mark any fit alterations on your pattern pieces in pencil. After that you can unpick the seams to adjust and retrace the pattern pieces!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

How to use Swedish Tracing Paper to trace a pattern

You Will Need:

The pattern you want to trace
Scissors
Swedish Tracing Paper
Mechanical pencil
Tape Measure
Ruler
French curve
Sticky Tape
An eraser

Make it even easier with…

A pattern notcher
An awl

1. First, lay the pattern pieces you want to trace on a flat surface.

You may wish to dry iron them first so they lay completely flat for the most accurate trace.

Place your Swedish Tracing Paper on top.

You do not need to use a light box or a window to trace through as Swedish Tracing Paper is translucent enough to see even fairly fine lines through.

2. You can use pattern weights or pins to hold the tracing paper over the pattern pieces as it can have a tendency to curl away slightly.

If you find your tracing paper gets a little crumpled or creased, iron it on a silk or cool setting and a pressing cloth.

3. To trace off a master copy of any pattern simply trace over your desired sizes, markings & labels on your pattern pieces.

Swedish tracing paper is easy to mark with pencil, pen or even chalk, but pencil is easiest to remark and remove if you make a mistake.

4. Next, cut around the edge of your pattern with paper scissors and mark with your awl all the markings (eg circle markings for bust points) & a pattern notcher for the notches, if you have one.

5. Either use your traced pattern straight away, or sew together using a basting stitch.

Once basted you can then try on your pattern for size!

Mark any adjustments you need to make & alter the pattern piece as required.

Retrace the pattern piece to try again.

6. You can use the pattern pieces you create from Swedish tracing paper as you would normal paper pattern pieces

Then, simply pin or use pattern weights when cutting out, but they are much more durable in use. For those of us who find the perfect pattern we want to make a time & time again – no more pin marked and destroyed paper pattern pieces!

Sewing and Handling Tips

Needle – Universal machine needles work well for running a simple tacking stitch
Thread – A polyester thread works best for creating muslins, as it does not snap easily and is smooth for easy removal.
Sewing – Use a long, basting stitch length.

We hope you found this product guide helpful…. Do let us know what you thought in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!

How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

by Kellie Rose | Dec 2, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, My Makes, Tutorials

Make your own Pyjama Bottoms Tutorial Part 2 Banner

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Hello Seam-Stars! Thanks for joining me again for the second post in our “Make your own Pyjama Bottoms” series

Yesterday’s post gave you instructions on how to make your pyjama bottom pattern. If you’ve not done that yet – you need to hop over and make your pattern pieces – otherwise this post won’t make any sense at all!

Don’t be daunted… there are videos and everything!

In this post we’re going to talk about the fabrics you can use to make your own pyjama bottoms, as well as a sewing tutorial on how to sew them up once you have created your pattern…

Supplies you will need:

Your pattern drafted from this post
2.5-3m of your chosen pyjama fabric, pre-washed (see below for options) We totally recommend using flannel fabric. (the amount required will on the size & more importantly length of your trousers – our sample is a standard UK 14/16. Once you have drafted your pattern you can work this out exactly – usually it’s waist-to-ankle measurement x 2 plus seam allowances) [We used A E Nathan – Comfy Flannel – Pink Camo]
1m of 2cm Wide Elastic [We used Hemline White Woven Ribbed Elastic 20mm]
1m of 2cm (or wider) ribbon [ Berisfords Shocking Pink Velvet Ribbon 22mm ]

Sewing Kit You Will Need:

Sewing machine
Fabric Scissors OR rotary cutter, mat & ruler
Tape Measure or ruler
Pins or Clips
Pinking Shears or rotary cutter pinking blade
Hand Sewing Needle
Basic Sewing Kit
Safety pin

Choosing fabric to make pyjama bottoms

You can use a number of different fabrics to make PJs… In our sewing tutorial we’ve used flannel fabric – and for good reason… It’s a perfect fabric choice! But not the only one…

Firstly, think about the fabric weight you’d like – you can both use lightweight or slightly heavier weight fabrics when making pyjamas – the season will determine the best choice for your garment.

We would definitely recommend natural, breathable fabrics over manmade fabrics for PJS. The exception here is manmade fleece which would be a good choice in very cold weather.

Here are our top picks for fabrics suitable for pyjamas

Flannel fabric: We LOVE flannel fabric for making pyjamas… It would be our first choice. It’s soft, warm, cosy, an easy sew & breathable – perfect for PJs! If you’re not really sure what flannel fabric is then check out our Fabric Guide To Flannel for the full low down
Quilting cotton: There’s a mind boggling choice of funky designs available in quilting cotton so you can make a garment that’s really bespoke & individual. It’s easy & stable to sew, as well as being breathable. The only downer might be the drape with some quilt cottons – some brands can be a little stiff.
Jersey – Really comfy for PJ bottoms as they stretch when you do… if you know what I mean 😉 Natural fibre jersey is the best choice. Stretch fabric does require a little special handling and a stretch or ballpoint needle is required.
Cotton lawn : Cotton lawn would make a great fabric choice for PJs – it’s lighter weight than regular quilting cotton & better suited for summer PJs. Soft, stable, better drape & breathable. Read our Guide To Cotton Lawn for more info about this fave fabric.
Viscose: if you’re after something that has loads of drape & will result in a floaty pair of PJs then viscose is a good choice BUT viscose is rather slippery to sew. If you’re a beginner Seam-Star you would be best off trying one of the other fabric choices first to save swear words. Read our viscose tips and you can decide if it’s for you…
Fleece: The season has to be right for fleece fabric pyjamas. Most (but not all) fleece is made from polyester and if you wear fleece in bed when it’s too warm you’re going to end up “glowing” in your new bottoms! Read all about fleece fabric here

Disclaimer: A note on sleepwear for children – We don’t advise making children’s nightwear, unless you source specially treated, fire resistant textiles. Many fabrics do not meet the fire retardancy requirements to be safe for children’s nightwear required under UK law

So once you’ve decided what fabric you’d like, you need to make sure you have all the supplies!

Sewing your pyjama bottoms

Important Notes:

1cm / ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice.
For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
We have used an overlocker to finish the seams & prevent fraying, but you can refer to this post if you do not have an overlocker for alternative seam finishing methods.
RST = Right Sides Together.
WST = Wrong Sides Together.
Read through the instructions fully before starting.

Cutting Your fabrics & notions

Cut out your prepared paper pattern, including the seam allowances.

You may wish to transfer the paper pattern to manilla template card for easier tracing or if you think you will make multiple pairs of pyjamas.

Alternatively trace the final pattern pieces more neatly & boldly on a fresh piece of pattern paper if your original pattern is a little scruffy.

Cutting Out:

From The Flannel Fabric Cut:

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser fronts from your prepared pattern

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser backs from your prepared pattern

1 x Length of elastic that fits your waist measurement

Sewing together the pyjama bottoms

Place one front leg & one back leg RST . Pin down the long outer edge & sew. Overlock/ seam finish as desired (check out our post here for more info on seam finishing without an overlocker).