Our "Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial" provides a detailed, step-by-step guide to sewing a comfortable cushion featuring a convenient pocket for your book and a handle for easy transport. Designed for adventurous beginners, this project requires basic sewing materials, including quilting cotton, fusible interfacing, continuous zipper tape, and polypropylene webbing. The tutorial includes clear instructions on fabric cutting, assembling the cushion back panel with a zipper, and constructing the pocket and handle. By following this guide, you'll create a functional and cozy reading cushion, perfect for book lovers of all ages.
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Boring Legal Bit:If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewedhere
You have probably noticed our slight obsession with fusiblewoven interfacing, we use it in lots of our tutorial projects. But it’s easy to see why: check out the ‘spring’ in the fabrics in the photo above – the fabric with interlining sits higher and rolls into a smoother curve.
In this guide, we’re going to talk you through the benefits of woven interfacing and why we love it SO much, give you some project inspiration and walk you through the correct way to apply woven interlining to your fabrics.
What is Fusible Woven Interfacing?
Fusible woven interfacingis actually a “normal” piece of fabric with warp & weft threads that are woven together in the traditional way. A layer of adhesive glue is applied to one side which will adhere to other fabric once an iron is applied.
Woven interfacing(or interlining) is a great way to give your projects a little more structure, making fabrics easier to work with and it’s super simple to apply. Medium weights are great for quilting cottons in projects like cushions; they will sit better but still feel “squishably” soft and it can help non-padded little bags and pencil cases hold their shape.
Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.
The benefits of using woven interfacing
Elevates quilt cotton weight fabric to a canvas weight fabric
Negates the need for a lining in some projects – saves you money & time!
The interlining fabric is made of natural cotton fibres rather than polyester (plastic) so it’s more eco-friendly
It’s breathable as it’s a natural fibre
It adds structure
It adds a luxury feel to your project
Machine washable up to 60 degrees
Helps reduce the need for ironing on some projects as it retains shape
Works with light to medium weight fabrics (the fabric must withstand being ironed at heat setting 3)
Gives fabrics a heavier feel
Reduces drape
Excellent for adding body to quilt cottons to be used in bag making or home dec projects
In-house at Plush Addict we LOVE woven interfacing for bag making, zipper pouches & cushion covers. It gives a really professional finish to your projects.
Using this interfacing for cushion covers can negate the need for a lining so it saves fabric and makes it easier – especially if you are adding a zipper! It’s also great to use for external pockets – again no lining is required!
A note on using woven interfacing in dressmaking projects
The general rule of thumb regarding using any kind of interfacing in dressmaking is that the interfacing should not be heavier than your fashion fabric. Woven interfacing is great when sewing coats, shirts etc, but it as it does reduce the drape of your fashion fabric it’s not best suited for times you wish your fabric to have a good drape.
Test interlining on a 2″ test square of the fabric to check suitability
Method
1. Cut your fabric: Fabrics can be cut to size/ shape before or after applying interfacing.
2. Smooth out the interlining adhesive side up (it feels slightly rough). Lay the fabric on top right side up with the grain lines aligned.
3. Cut the interfacing to the same size as the piece of fabric.
4. Place the fabric right side down on an ironing board.
5. Smooth the interfacing on top of the fabric, coated side down. Trim any interlining that exceeds the size of the fabric to prevent damage to the ironing surface, or lay on some scrap calico/ fabric
6. Cover with a smooth surfaced cloth; a tea towel or spare cotton are ideal.
7. Lightly dampen the cover using the iron’s spray setting.
8. Adjust the iron to heat setting 3 – cotton, no steam.
9. Starting at one corner work the iron across the cover to lightly adhere the materials together, smoothing out any lumps or ridges as the iron moves across.
10. Lift the cover and check for any bumps. The fabric and interfacing may need peeling apart a little. Recover and lightly press.
11. Once the interfacing is smooth, dampen the cover again.
12. Press, spending 12 seconds on each area to achieve good adhesion.
13. Place the coated fabric somewhere flat to cool fully and set the adhesive.
And you’re done!
(Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.)
Want to try woven interning in the wild? Here are some interlining projects you could try:
Have you ever sewn a centred zip? It’s a great zip for beginners to start off with and it’s really not that hard so we’ve put together this Centered Zip Tutorial for you.
If you’re sewing a centred zipper for the first time or want to gain confidence in inserting them, this great tutorial contains a few tips and tricks to help you sew a centred zip.
Once you’ve mastered lining up the zipper tape, which can be the trickiest part, you’ll be able to insert a zipper with confidence and experiment with different types.
Zips! The most frequent task we are asked for help with. And something many get nervous about. With practice and a few surprising tools to hand they aren’t as tricky as you think.
What is a Centred Zip?
A centred zip is a type of zipper insertion in which the zip teeth are centred between the fabric. The fabric covers the sides of the zipper equally meeting in the middle and you are able to see the stitch on either side of the zip.
Top Tip: While getting the hang of zips, insert them as the first step of your project; it’s far easier to work with flat fabric and it takes the pressure off any potential ‘whoops’ moments.
Boring Legal Bit:If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewedhere
Step 1:
Apply a strip of interfacing to each side of the zip opening*. The 2 strips need to be the full length and width of the zip, not exceeding the length of the fabric.
Step 2:
Tidy the raw edges of the zip opening. Use a non-bulky method; zig zag stitch or overlocking are ideal.
Step 3:
Clip the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.
Step 4:
Baste along the zip opening with a 1.5cm seam allowance and contrasting thread.
Step 5:
Press the seam open.
*interfacing is not needed for heavier weight fabrics unless they are loosely woven.
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Step 6:
Align the zipper teeth along the seam line. Position the zip pull side down zip bar at the bottom of the project, pull overhanging the top.
Step 7:
Tape the zip in place.
Step 8:
Starting at the top of the project nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a 2.5 straight stitch length and a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip. If the zip has a metal bar be careful near the bottom.
Step 9:
Stop sewing just below the bottom bar. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully. Backstitch for added strength.
Step 10:
Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch
Step 11:
Turn the project over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.
To sew the centered zip into the project, vertically pin the opening end of the zip in place then unzip it by 3cm or more before sewing. Carefully backstitch when sewing over the zipper teeth. Excess zip tape can then be cut off.
Zip tips
The edge of the zip foot should run alongside the zipper teeth with the needle on the side closest to the teeth.
Start sewing on the side that has the least bulk under the sewing machine arm.
To keep the zip tape/ seam aligned, sew slowly, keep the edge of the zip tape at the same depth along the seam allowance, the edge or the seam tidying can provide a guideline. Use the presser foot as a guide for keeping the seamline straight; part of it may align with the zipper teeth or part of the zip tape.
If alignment is still proving tricky, try sewing from the right side of the fabric, mark just above the bottom bar with a pin to mark where to stop.
We hope you found this centered zip tutorial useful!
Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂
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These cute little fabric trays are a great beginner project. They stitch up quickly and are a very handy cute little item to have dotted around your sewing room. Use them to catch threads or keep your little sewing notions tidy and easy to grab. Perfect as a quick gift, scrap buster and a short satisfying sew…
Aren’t they just the sweetest little things?
You will need:
An old pair of jeans
1 FQ Quilting cotton
Heavy Iron-on Interfacing or a woven interfacing. Vliseline G700 is great for this
Decide which sized tray you are going to make. Cut your fabrics as per the the table :
Cut the following based on the table above:
1 x square Denim Outer Fabrics
1 x square Inner quilting cotton
2 x squares Interfacing Squares
Step 2: Iron on interfacing squares to the reverse side of both the denim outer & the quilt cotton fabric inner.
Step 3: With RST pin the outer and inner fabrics together
Step 4: Sew round the edge leaving a turning gap of approx 3-5 inches (depending on which sized tray you are making)
Step 5: Trim the fabric on each corner diagonally to reduce bulk, taking care not to snip through your stitches
Step 6: Turn to the right side making sure your corners are crisp (Use a sturdy pin to dig out the excess fabric in the corners helps here)
Pro Tip: The tool pictured above are Needle Grippersand they are SO helpful for turning out projects
Step 7: Press & pin the turning gap closed.
Step 8: Top Stitch all the way around the edge using a 3mm stitch approximately 1/8″ from the fabric edge , closing the turning gap.
Step 9: On both sides of every corner make a mark with a temporary fabric marker the distance from the corner as listed in the table below
Step 9: Match up the 2 marks on each corner so the lining fabric is touching. Over stitch catching both sides of the tray. Repeat for all 4 corners.
Congratulations! You’re done!
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Gardening can be a muddy business so let’s bring a splash of colour to the potting shed with this apron.
This sturdy companion, with a trio of generously sized pockets and easy release belt, will keep tools on hand and provide a safe space for harvested goodies.
We’ve also added some complementary accessories with wrist straps; they are the work of moments and a super handy for those most used tools.
Get comfortable sewing with canvas and learn how to sew mitred corners by making this project.
If you would like some tips on sewing canvas fabric then check out ourGuide To Canvas Fabricoverhere
Boring Legal Bit:If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewedhere
Step 1: Cut your fabrics
Cut out the following using the measurements above:
1 apron piece
1 pocket piece*
For fabrics with a directional pattern, please note that the 29cm measurement will run top to bottom on the finished apron.
* For colour blocked pockets: cut 2 side pocket pieces 15.5x29cm and a middle pocket piece 26x29cm. Join using a 1cm seam allowance.
Add the Ribbon Detail
Step 1:Make marks on the central pocket piece 10cm and 15cm from the bottom right corner working along the bottom edge (26cm) and up the side (29cm).
Draw diagonal lines joining the 10cm and 15cm points
Pin the wider ribbon along the 15cm line and the narrower along the 10cm line.
Sew the ribbon in place then trim the ends so they align with the edge of the pocket piece.
Step 2:Assemble the pocket
Align one of the side pocket pieces with one side of the central pocket piece and pin.
Repeat with the other side pocket piece then sew them both with a 1cm seam allowance.
Tidy the seam allowance; zig zag stitch or overlocking are ideal.
Mitre the corners
The following steps apply to the bottom 2 corners (3 sides) of the apron piece and all 4 corners of the pocket piece:
Step 3:With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side and press.
Step 4:Fold the raw edges under to the crease and press forming a 1cm border.
Step 5:Starting at one corner open out the 2cm hem on both sides, keeping the 1cm creases folded.
Step 6:Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the napkin.
Step 7:Finger press along the crease.
Step 8:Unfold the corner and mark out the fold line.
Step 9:Fold the corner in half bringing the 2 right sides together.
Step 10:Pin and sew along the marked line.
Step 11:Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and clip the end.
Step 12:Turn out the corner, use a turner to shape the point.
Step 13:On the apron, press then sew all the borders with a 1cm seam allowance, on the pocket only sew the top border.
Step 14: Sew the apron
Fold over to the back and press the top 1cm of fabric on the apron piece.
Step 15:Fold over another 4.5cm and press.
Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!
Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.
Boring Legal Bit:If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewedhere
Step 16:Sew a line of stitching along the bottom edge to form the belt casing.
Step 17: Add the pocket
On the pocket piece, press pairs of 1cm wide concertina folds 10cm from each short edge of the pocket piece.
Step 18:Fold the apron and pocket pieces in half and hand press along the creases.
Step 19:Measure and mark a line 4cm up from the bottom of the apron.
Step 20:Align the bottom of pocket piece with the 4cm line matching up the 2 central creases.
Step 21:Position and pin the concertina folds so the centre of them is 13.5cm from the outer edge of the apron.
Step 22:Sew 2 lines of stitching, 5mm apart, along the centre of the concertina folds.
Step 23:Position and pin the edge of the side pockets 3.5cm from the edge of the apron.
Step 24:Sew 2 lines of stitching,1cm apart, along the edge of the side pockets.
Step 25:Sew 2 lines of stitching, 1cm apart, along the bottom edge of the pocket piece. Ensuring the folds are sewn in place.
Step 26: Finishing touches
Thread the webbing through the belt casing by folding the webbing lengthways.
Step 27:Release the Delrin buckle and add a piece to each end of the webbing. Secure the female end with 2 lines of stitching.
Step 28: The wrist strap
Cut and seal a 40cm length of 25mm webbing.
Step 29:Align the 2 ends and fold the webbing in half.
Step 30:Insert the ends into the fob clasp and press with keyring pliers.
And tadaaah!All finished 🙂
Well done seam-star!
Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!
Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.
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