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A Plush Addict Guide To: Quilt Wadding (Batting)

A Plush Addict Guide To: Quilt Wadding (Batting)

This Guide Has Moved & Been Improved.

See the Updated Guide Here

Whether you’re new to quilting or a dab hand in that area, choosing which wadding you’ll need for your quilt can be a tricky business.

Not only are there loads to choose from, but there are so many words and phrases associated with wadding that just go straight over your head, am I correct?

Well we’re here to help answer all the questions you’ve never had answered, teach you the basic lingo and hopefully put your mind at ease for the next time you need to purchase wadding or attach wadding to your quilt project.

Wadding, or ‘batting’ as it is known in the US, is the layer of material in between your quilt top and backing fabric, and the type of wadding you choose will determine the way your sewed quilt will look and feel.

The first thing you need to consider is how thick you want your finished quilt to look. This is where the ‘high loft’ and ‘low loft’ come into play.

Loft

A high loft means the wadding is thick with more apparent quilting lines and will ‘puff out’ more, whereas a low loft is thin and better for a flatter finish and for showing off your piecing rather than the actual quilt lines.

Most quilters prefer to use a low loft as it’s easier to machine or hand quilt and a high loft can be difficult in this area due to too much bulk.

The good news is that low loft waddings are just as warm and cosy!

Composition

The composition is the next factor you need to bear in mind when choosing your wadding.

There are various benefits for all types of wadding, whether it be their great quality, durability or economical value.

Take a look at a few examples of wadding compositions along with their pros and cons and how you can better understand them.

Cotton

Cotton is a soft, breathable, natural fibre and a popular choice for many quilters. Cotton wadding tends to shrink if not pre-shrunk, creating a classic, wrinkly ‘lived in’ look, and whilst it’s usually a low loft, this can vary, so there are more options when choosing a wadding suitable for your project.

Some cotton waddings are needle-punched, giving them extra stability, making them a good choice for wall hangings or items that will be heavily machine stitched. For those who prefer hand quilting, you’d be better off looking for a cotton wadding without needlepunching or scrim. It is one of the more expensive waddings available, but with the price does come quality.

Polyester

Polyester is a popular choice which of wadding which has been used by quilters for years as it comes in a variety of lofts, is very durable and is less costly than all other commercial waddings.  

It is light, doesn’t shrink and maintains its shape, but it isn’t as breathable and doesn’t drape (how it feels after being quilted) as well as cotton or bamboo waddings.

As it is one of the cheaper waddings available, it can have a tendency to beard after a while, which is more evident if your fabrics are dark coloured.

Bamboo

Bamboo is an increasingly popular choice because it’s a more sustainable plant than cotton.

This wadding benefits from being environmentally friendly and its naturally low lofts gives it a good drape. Plus, it’s soft, cosy and great quality!

It’s suitable for both machine and hand quilting.

You can find out more about bamboo by taking a peek here at our Absorbent Fabrics Guide.

Blends (poly-cotton/bamboo-cotton)

These combine the ‘best of both worlds’, and are designed to make quilts loftier and lighter while still providing the benefits of natural fibres.

Blends are easy to work with, a good choice for quilters who are unsure which wadding would be best for their quilt and also benefit from being cheaper than pure bamboo or cotton.

Colour

It might not seem like a big thing to bear in mind when choosing your wadding, but the colour you pick can affect your finished quilt.

Waddings generally come in three colours: white, natural and black.

Whilst white is the most commercially available and arguably the most popular, black wadding is a much better choice for quilting projects using darker fabrics as it won’t show through.

So before you buy, make sure you think about which fabrics you’ll be using for your quilt and which colour wadding would be most beneficial to you.

Should I pre-wash wadding?

We are constantly being asked whether you should wash your wadding and whilst many wadding brands will state that pre-washing is recommended – we don’t think it’s necessary.

Pre-washing your wadding DOES help to reduce shrinkage as well as take out any oils & resins, but as most wadding has already been washed during the manufacturing process we don’t see this as an issue.

But what about shrinkage?

There might be a small amount of shrinkage, but usually it’s not very much at at all – maybe 3%? And personally, we LOVE the slightly wrinkled effect on a washed quilt – it feels kinda vintage!

However, if you don’t like this look and want to pre-wash then it’s best to do it in the bath! Just pop your wadding in a bathtub full of hot water and leave it for a bit. Be warned – your wadding will be pretty darn sopping when you get it out, so it’ll be very heavy. Watch your back !

As you lift it, you’re probably going to stretch the wadding which may make it thinner in some places – this isn’t ideal.

You might try a delicates cycle or handwash in your washing machine but you run also the risk of it distorting your wadding.

If you do pre-wash then dry your wadding as flat as possible to avoid further stretching.

How much will I need?

It all depends on the size of your quilt.

Simply measure up the size of your quilt and buy as much as you need for your sewing project!

Most waddings are available by the cut half metre and they can also come pre-packaged in standard sizes for crib, twin, double and king, so you’ll be ready for the project that you wish to make from the get go.

And that should be most things covered!

If you’re still unsure about some of the words or phrases used throughout the guide, take a look below at the handy glossary.

Wadding Glossary

Batting: general term used for wadding in various countries including the USA

Drape: How a quilt feels after being quilted. Good quality wadding will allow your quilt to drape around you comfortably without being too stiff.

Loft: the weight and thickness of wadding. A high loft means it’s thick, a low loft means it’s thin.

Bearding: When fibres separate and push through the top layer of the quilt. Often happens with cheaper wadding

Needle-punched: mechanically felted together by punching them with hundreds of needles, causing the fibres to intertwine and bond together, making it denser

Scrim: a thin grid of polyester/synthetic stabiliser which is needle punched into the wadding to stabilise the cotton fibres and prevent them from bearding. Also adds strength and stops the wadding from distorting and stretching.

No scrim: With no scrim, the stitches must be quilted closer together to keep the fibres separating. Waddings with no scrim are a good choice for hand quiltin

We stock a variety of different wadding for all your quilting needs! Hop on over to the website and browse the world of wadding!

I hope that you’ve found this guide useful and that when you next need to buy wadding it will cause you less of a headache!

Happy quilting!

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Cloth Nappy Fabrics 101 Part 6: Stay Dry Fabrics

Cloth Nappy Fabrics 101 Part 6: Stay Dry Fabrics

Hello! And welcome to the last part of my nappy making fabrics guide. Last up we’re going to talk about “Stay Dry” fabrics which are often used as the inner layer of a nappy. We have up to 20% off all fabrics in our “Stay Dry” section and all orders placed over this week that you’ve asked us to hang on to will be dispatched today. We also have 20% off nappy making kits all week long.

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Denim Jean Fabric: A Guide And Sewing Tips

Denim Jean Fabric: A Guide And Sewing Tips

There’s nothing quite like a good pair of denim jeans, is there? It’s such a versatile fabric which only improves with age and wear. We have the French to thank for denim, originally woven in the town of Nîmes for overalls and sailcloth it was known as “serge de Nîmes” which got shortened to  “de Nîmes” and the name was born. Denim is a strong and durable twill woven fabric made from 100% cotton. Traditionally the warp yarns are dyed an indigo colour and the weft yarn is left undyed which is why true denim fabric is different colours on either side (for real fabric geeks, if your denim is the same colour on both sides it’s actually jean fabric, not denim!) We have recently started stocking denim, you can see our collection here and we carry a wide range of weights (including fat quarters) and colours. We also have stretch denim which is particularly great for clothing makes. DSC_0409

Uses for Denim Jean Fabric

Denim is super versatile. As it’s 100% cotton it’s great for casual wear clothing such as jeans, skirts, jackets, shorts, children’s clothes, workwear overalls and protective clothing. As denim is very hardwearing it would also be great for home wear items such as oven gloves, cushions, decorative upholstery and bags.

A Guide to Denim Weights

Denim comes in a vast array of weights and one of our most frequently asked questions is whether a denim classes as light, medium or heavy weight.
  1. Lightweight – or under 12 Oz.
  2. Mid-weight – or from 12 Oz. – 16 Oz.
  3. Heavyweight – anything above 16 Oz.
The rule is the heavier the denim, the better it will age and fade *but* heavier weight denim will be very stiff to start off with and take time to wear in and soften. The most common denims used, and the easiest to handle, are the light and medium weight.

Sewing With Denim

Denim is a rough and tough fabric and the main problem is poses for sewing is the thickness of the fabric,  as such you need to right kit for the job to ensure success. 1) Use a denim needle which are stronger than “normal” needles and have a sharper point both of which will help you sew through a heavier fabric. 2) Use denim thread, it’s stronger and especially important on stress seams. 3) Go slowly! Those layers of denim might leave your machine struggling, if that’s the case then slow down and use your hand wheel. 4) Reduce bulk. Some machines will glide through layers of denim with no issues, others might not have the wellie needed to cope. If this is the case then reduce bulk where you can by pressing seams out flat or by using thinner fabrics as facings of linings which is not only practical, but will also add some pretty design features to your work. You can also trim seams right back to your stitching line (being careful not to cut your stitches of course) 5) Use a longer stitch length, about 3-3.5 should do it. Have you made anything lately with denim? I’d love to see photos if you have! FB-denim
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