What is Manilla Pattern Card?
Ever heard of manilla pattern card and wondered what it is, and how it’s used in the sewing industry?
This special card is used extensively by industry professionals, pattern cutters, dressmakers & couture houses alike. It is specifically manufactured for making dressmaking pattern pieces and pattern cutting blocks more durable.
But why leave this amazing product for the professionals to benefit from when the home sewist can find so many uses for it?!
If you have a “Tried & Tested” dressmaking pattern you might want to consider investing in some Manila pattern card to preserve the life of your perfect pattern pieces, as well as making them easier for you to trace around.
If you are pattern cutting at home or tracing standard blocks, using this card means they can your pattern pieces be used over and again as a starting point for all basic garments.
Although we are focussing on dressmaking patterns here, this versatile card can be used for any of your sewing patterns… Think bag patterns, pouch patterns, bib patterns toy patterns… In fact, ANY pattern that you find yourself using time and time again would benefit from being traced on to this card.
In this guide we’ll not only give you the low down about this Pro-Product, but we’ll also walk you through two ways you can trace off and preserve one of your beloved patterns on to this useful card.
What is Manilla Pattern Making Card?
Used in garment making and pattern cutting, this card is thick & weighty enough to lay flat when cutting patterns. No pins are needed and minimal pattern weights are required, so it saves time in the long run.
Even though it’s durable, this card is also thin & lightweight enough to cut, fold, roll and store easily at home.
It is made by gluing 2 sheets of manilla card together once manufactured. This gives the card a smooth, firm and hard wearing surface and a clean tracing edge on pattern pieces & blocks.
What are the benefits of using pattern template card?
- Tracing patterns on to manilla card will preserve the longevity of your sewing patterns that can get easily damaged through repeated use
- Save time when tracing or cutting patterns as pins are not required
- You get a sharp edge on your pattern piece to trace around making it easier with a rotary cutter or fabric pen
How to preserve a dressmaking pattern
Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here
You Will Need:
- The pattern you want to preserve/copy
- Pattern Making Card
- Scissors
- Swedish Tracing Paper
- Mechanical pencil
- Tape Measure
- Ruler
- French curve
- Tape
- Eraser
- Glue stick or spray adhesive
New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post
How to Transfer a Pattern On To Pattern Card
Method 1: Use Pattern Weights
This method is particularly useful for preserving basic core pattern blocks, that will be traced around many times
1) Cut out your pattern piece on to pattern tracing paper, including any marks, dots and notches. Swedish Tracing Paper is ideal to use here
2) Lay the pattern piece flat on top of the card, using pattern weights. It needs to be completely flat so you may want to press it before proceeding.
3) Trace around all edges and markings of your pattern piece, using a long ruler or french curve to ensure you are creating accurate lines.
5) Remove the pattern piece, and cut around your new card pattern. Transfer any markings, such as notches and dots, using an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches.
Have you seen our Swedish Tracing Paper Guide? It’s pattern paper you can sew! Check out this post for more info
6) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.
Or you can trace around them to quickly create markings for your basic block on paper, which can then be adapted to make a new pattern design.
Use a hole punch to create a hole in the pattern piece, and you can store them on thread, string or a wire hook to hang them on a rail.
Method 2: use Glue
In this method you glue your pattern piece to the card and then cut round the edge. All of your pattern markings will already be visible for the original pattern piece
1) Using a glue stick (ideally a fairly ‘dry’ glue that isn’t too wet and won’t cause your pattern to wrinkle) or a spray adhesive stick your paper pattern to the pattern card.
You can either cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet, or do it piece by piece. You will get a neater result sticking the pattern down as a full sheet.
2) Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots. Use an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches.
3) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.
And you’re done!
We hope your found this product guide and tutorial on how to preserve a pattern on manilla card helpful
Never miss a guide or tutorial
Click to join our mailing list!
What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?
Swedish Tracing Paper is a type of dressmaking pattern tracing paper that is fairly translucent, drapeable and best of all – it’s pattern paper that is sewable! This makes it an incredible choice for making muslins or toiles whilst dressmaking.
In this guide we’re going to talk you through the product, as well as offer a tutorial on how to use this amazing dressmaking pattern paper & how using it can save you both time AND fabric!
What is Swedish Tracing Paper?
Unlike conventional pattern drafting paper that can tear or crumple easily, Swedish tracing paper can be used to
- Trace dressmaking patterns
- Alter patterns
- Sew pattern pieces traced on to Swedish Tracing Paper together to make a muslin & get an idea of fit
- Easily mark pattern alterations on to
It’s super useful and will save you time and fabric! You could easily skip making a muslin or toile from Calico fabric and use Swedish Tracing Paper instead.
Just a heads up! Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means we may earn a small commission - at no extra cost to you - if you make a purchase through them. It’s a little way you can support us and help keep all this awesome content free. Thanks for supporting us! Please read our full disclaimer here
What is Swedish Tracing Paper made from?
Swedish tracing paper is made from eco-friendly abaca fibres, making it compostable & environmentally friendly. The tightly packed, jumbled fibres make it more tear-resistant than regular pattern paper yet it’s still translucent enough to see through for tracing .
You can sew Swedish tracing paper in the same way you would sew regular ‘muslin’ fabrics using a universal needle and thread.
You can baste your traced pattern pieces together with a long stitch on your sewing machine. Once sewn you can easily mark any fit alterations on your pattern pieces in pencil. After that you can unpick the seams to adjust and retrace the pattern pieces!
Looking to expand your fabric knowledge?
Check out our Fabric Guides for tips on working with all types of fabric
How to use Swedish Tracing Paper to trace a pattern
You Will Need:
- The pattern you want to trace
- Scissors
- Swedish Tracing Paper
- Mechanical pencil
- Tape Measure
- Ruler
- French curve
- Sticky Tape
- An eraser
Make it even easier with…
1. First, lay the pattern pieces you want to trace on a flat surface.
You may wish to dry iron them first so they lay completely flat for the most accurate trace.
Place your Swedish Tracing Paper on top.
You do not need to use a light box or a window to trace through as Swedish Tracing Paper is translucent enough to see even fairly fine lines through.
2. You can use pattern weights or pins to hold the tracing paper over the pattern pieces as it can have a tendency to curl away slightly.
If you find your tracing paper gets a little crumpled or creased, iron it on a silk or cool setting and a pressing cloth.
3. To trace off a master copy of any pattern simply trace over your desired sizes, markings & labels on your pattern pieces.
Swedish tracing paper is easy to mark with pencil, pen or even chalk, but pencil is easiest to remark and remove if you make a mistake.
4. Next, cut around the edge of your pattern with paper scissors and mark with your awl all the markings (eg circle markings for bust points) & a pattern notcher for the notches, if you have one.
5. Either use your traced pattern straight away, or sew together using a basting stitch.
Once basted you can then try on your pattern for size!
Mark any adjustments you need to make & alter the pattern piece as required.
Retrace the pattern piece to try again.
6. You can use the pattern pieces you create from Swedish tracing paper as you would normal paper pattern pieces
Then, simply pin or use pattern weights when cutting out, but they are much more durable in use. For those of us who find the perfect pattern we want to make a time & time again – no more pin marked and destroyed paper pattern pieces!
Want More Sewing Know-How?
Sewing and Handling Tips
- Needle – Universal machine needles work well for running a simple tacking stitch
- Thread – A polyester thread works best for creating muslins, as it does not snap easily and is smooth for easy removal.
- Sewing – Use a long, basting stitch length.
We hope you found this product guide helpful…. Do let us know what you thought in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!
Sew Your Own Appliquéd Christmas Bunting Tutorial
9 Quick Homemade Gifts You Can Sew In Under 30 Minutes!
Create Your Own Pyjama Sewing Pattern: Part 1
We all have that perfect pair of pyjama bottoms – just the right combination of comfiness, cosiness & enough room to account for a mini tea & biscuit feast on an evening! You could try to find a sewing pattern to recreate them, or you can follow our tutorial to create your own pyjama sewing pattern to exactly replicate your favourite PJs!
And the best part is this tutorial can be used to make any size pyjama bottoms. Sewing these is straight forward and definitely possible for a beginner…
This is a two part tutorial
- This post will take you through how to create your pyjama sewing pattern
- The second post in this series will take your through the best pyjama fabric choices & a tutorial on how to sew the pyjama bottoms up
Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here
Skill level : Beginner
Approximate sewing time to draft sewing pattern for pyjama bottoms AND sew your pyjama bottoms : A long afternoon
To draft your pyjama bottom sewing pattern you will need
- Swedish Tracing Paper or other Pattern Paper or Pattern Card
- French Curve or ruler
- A pair of pyjama ‘bottoms’ (this could be shorts or trousers) that fit well, with an elastic waistband.
- A sharp pencil.
For fabric requirements & notions requirements are in the next post!
Creating your pyjama bottom pattern
Prepare to trace your pyjama bottoms
1.Turn the pyjama bottoms inside out.
2. Put your hand through the bottom hole of one leg, and take the bottom hole of the other leg, pulling it through so that one leg is inside the other.
3. Flatten and smooth out the trouser legs as much as possible, so that the bottom holes of each leg align.
Tracing the back leg for your pyjama sewing pattern
We’re going to create two pattern pieces for your pyjama bottom pattern – a front leg and a back leg.
4. Lay your pyjama bottoms as flat as possible on the paper, with the back leg of the pyjama bottoms on the paper. Make sure the long side seam is flat on the paper. You will be able to see the inner leg seam.
5. Trace along the bottom and the long side seam up to the waistband, marking the corner of the waistband when you reach it. Roll the fabric away from the long side seam, so that the inner seam is flat to the paper. You need to do this as the back leg is wider than the front leg and you need to get the full width.
6. Now trace along the inner seam. You may need to adjust the seam as you go. As you go up the leg towards the crotch it gets a lot wider, so you might need to roll the fabric and adjust more to make it lie flat to the paper.
7. With the fabric rolled away from the side seam, when you reach the crotch apex only trace a little up. Do not trace any further up to the waistband yet. Watch our video below to help
8. Line up the edge of the waistband with the corner of the waistband you drew earlier. Press down firmly with your fingers to hold it in place.
9. Stretch the waistband out so the fabric is flat against the paper, and not gathered. Hold the centre seam of the waistband in place on the opposite side where you have already marked a corner and trace the edge of the waistband.
10. Release the waistband. Line up the centre seam of your waistband with the line you just traced on the edge of the waistband and make a mark down the centre seam.
11. Line up the crotch of your pyjama bottoms on your traced line and finish tracing the curve from where you initially marked
12. Once you have traced around your pyjamas it is likely that your line will be a little wonky! If you have a French Curve, now’s the time to grab it. You are going to neaten up your drawn lines and smooth out your curves.
One side of the French Curve will be straight, and the other has a variable shaped curve which will fit most curves of any dressmaking pattern. It’s a useful tool to have in your sewing arsenal for pattern alterations – just move the curved edge up and down until you have a curve that best matches your drawn line.
If you don’t have a French Curve – just eye up smoothing out your curves and use your ruler on the straight edges.
Now label this piece ‘Back’ and don’t forget to add seam allowances before use. See the note on seam allowances further down the post
Never miss a guide or tutorial
Click to join our mailing list!
Tracing the front leg for your pyjama sewing pattern
Now we’re going to create a pattern piece for the front leg using the same method….
13. Turn the pyjama bottoms over and again lay them as flat as possible on the paper, but with the front leg of the pyjama bottoms on the paper. Make sure the long side seam is flat on the paper. Make sure the inner leg seam is hidden under the fabric of the leg.
14. Trace along the bottom and the long side seam up to the waistband.
15. Keeping the fabric in place with your hand, lift the folded fabric edge so that the inner side seam is showing. Trace along the inner side seam, adjusting a few cm at a time until you reach the crotch.
16. As with the back of the leg, line up the waistband with the corner you marked, and stretch the waistband out so the fabric is flat against the paper, and not gathered. Hold the centre seam of the waistband in place on the opposite side and trace down the edge of the waistband.
17. Release the waistband. Line up the centre seam of your waistband with the line you just traced on the edge of the waistband and make a mark down the centre seam.
18. Line up the crotch of your pyjama bottoms on your traced line, and finish tracing the curve from where you initially marked.
19. Label this piece ‘Front’ and don’t forget to add seam allowances before use. See the note on seam allowances further down the post
Creating the waistband
We are creating a casing style waistband – this is where you create a casing and thread the elastic through your casing channel:
You need to measure the width of the elastic, add 0.5cm / ¼” to create a generous casing, and add another 0.5cm / ¼” to fold under. In this case we are using 2cm / ¾” wide elastic. Draw a line parallel to, and 3cm / 1 ¼” from the top waist of your pattern.
Now we want to make the lines you’ve traced a bit clearer and smoother. Use your French curve or ruler to smooth out your traced line. Check out the seam allowance video below for how to use the French Curve.
Adding Seam Allowances To Your Pyjama Bottom Pattern
Measure the seam allowance on your original pyjama bottoms. You can either copy and apply this seam allowance, or use a standard 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance to keep things simple (this is what we did)
You need to apply your seam allowance to the side seams, inner leg seams and crotch curves.
Use your ruler or French Curve for this making little dashes or dots 1cm/ 3/8″ from your smoothed out traced line. Please note: In this video we got carried away adding 3/8″ seam allowance and added that on to the waist when we should have added the waistband (just in case you were wondering why yours was different!)
For the hem, you will need a deeper seam allowance. Decide how wide you would like your hem to be, and add another 0.5cm / ¼” to this measurement. For this sample we used a 1.5cm ⅝” hem, and added 0.5cm / ¼”, which will get folded under to enclose the raw edge. You need to add a line parallel to the hemline, 2cm / ¾” from the bottom leg.
Mark on your pattern pieces the same allowance and hem allowance
Cut around your pattern pieces on the drawn seam allowance line.
You should now have a front and back leg pattern pieces. Well done!
Now it’s time to sew up your pyjama bottoms… See the part 2 of this tutorial here for fabric choices & sewing info
Never miss a guide or tutorial
Click to join our mailing list!