9 Quick Homemade Gifts You Can Sew In Under 30 Minutes!

by Kellie Rose | Dec 4, 2021 | My Makes

Pressed for time but want to create meaningful handmade gifts? Explore our curated list of 9 sewing projects that you can complete in under 30 minutes. From personalized notebook covers to reusable makeup pads, these tutorials are designed for speed and simplicity, making them ideal for last-minute gifting. Each project includes step-by-step instructions to guide you through the process.

This post will be updated soon, please check back shortly

How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

by Kellie Rose | Dec 2, 2021 | Tutorials

Make your own Pyjama Bottoms Tutorial Part 2 Banner

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Hello Seam-Stars! Thanks for joining me again for the second post in our “Make your own Pyjama Bottoms” series

Yesterday’s post gave you instructions on how to make your pyjama bottom pattern. If you’ve not done that yet – you need to hop over and make your pattern pieces – otherwise this post won’t make any sense at all!

Don’t be daunted… there are videos and everything!

In this post we’re going to talk about the fabrics you can use to make your own pyjama bottoms, as well as a sewing tutorial on how to sew them up once you have created your pattern…

Supplies you will need:

Your pattern drafted from this post
2.5-3m of your chosen pyjama fabric, pre-washed (see below for options) We totally recommend using flannel fabric. (the amount required will on the size & more importantly length of your trousers – our sample is a standard UK 14/16. Once you have drafted your pattern you can work this out exactly – usually it’s waist-to-ankle measurement x 2 plus seam allowances) [We used A E Nathan – Comfy Flannel – Pink Camo]
1m of 2cm Wide Elastic [We used Hemline White Woven Ribbed Elastic 20mm]
1m of 2cm (or wider) ribbon [ Berisfords Shocking Pink Velvet Ribbon 22mm ]

Sewing Kit You Will Need:

Sewing machine
Fabric Scissors OR rotary cutter, mat & ruler
Tape Measure or ruler
Pins or Clips
Pinking Shears or rotary cutter pinking blade
Hand Sewing Needle
Basic Sewing Kit
Safety pin

Choosing fabric to make pyjama bottoms

You can use a number of different fabrics to make PJs… In our sewing tutorial we’ve used flannel fabric – and for good reason… It’s a perfect fabric choice! But not the only one…

Firstly, think about the fabric weight you’d like – you can both use lightweight or slightly heavier weight fabrics when making pyjamas – the season will determine the best choice for your garment.

We would definitely recommend natural, breathable fabrics over manmade fabrics for PJS. The exception here is manmade fleece which would be a good choice in very cold weather.

Here are our top picks for fabrics suitable for pyjamas

Flannel fabric: We LOVE flannel fabric for making pyjamas… It would be our first choice. It’s soft, warm, cosy, an easy sew & breathable – perfect for PJs! If you’re not really sure what flannel fabric is then check out our Fabric Guide To Flannel for the full low down
Quilting cotton: There’s a mind boggling choice of funky designs available in quilting cotton so you can make a garment that’s really bespoke & individual. It’s easy & stable to sew, as well as being breathable. The only downer might be the drape with some quilt cottons – some brands can be a little stiff.
Jersey – Really comfy for PJ bottoms as they stretch when you do… if you know what I mean 😉 Natural fibre jersey is the best choice. Stretch fabric does require a little special handling and a stretch or ballpoint needle is required.
Cotton lawn : Cotton lawn would make a great fabric choice for PJs – it’s lighter weight than regular quilting cotton & better suited for summer PJs. Soft, stable, better drape & breathable. Read our Guide To Cotton Lawn for more info about this fave fabric.
Viscose: if you’re after something that has loads of drape & will result in a floaty pair of PJs then viscose is a good choice BUT viscose is rather slippery to sew. If you’re a beginner Seam-Star you would be best off trying one of the other fabric choices first to save swear words. Read our viscose tips and you can decide if it’s for you…
Fleece: The season has to be right for fleece fabric pyjamas. Most (but not all) fleece is made from polyester and if you wear fleece in bed when it’s too warm you’re going to end up “glowing” in your new bottoms! Read all about fleece fabric here

Disclaimer: A note on sleepwear for children – We don’t advise making children’s nightwear, unless you source specially treated, fire resistant textiles. Many fabrics do not meet the fire retardancy requirements to be safe for children’s nightwear required under UK law

So once you’ve decided what fabric you’d like, you need to make sure you have all the supplies!

Sewing your pyjama bottoms

Important Notes:

1cm / ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice.
For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
We have used an overlocker to finish the seams & prevent fraying, but you can refer to this post if you do not have an overlocker for alternative seam finishing methods.
RST = Right Sides Together.
WST = Wrong Sides Together.
Read through the instructions fully before starting.

Cutting Your fabrics & notions

Cut out your prepared paper pattern, including the seam allowances.

You may wish to transfer the paper pattern to manilla template card for easier tracing or if you think you will make multiple pairs of pyjamas.

Alternatively trace the final pattern pieces more neatly & boldly on a fresh piece of pattern paper if your original pattern is a little scruffy.

Cutting Out:

From The Flannel Fabric Cut:

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser fronts from your prepared pattern

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser backs from your prepared pattern

1 x Length of elastic that fits your waist measurement

Sewing together the pyjama bottoms

Place one front leg & one back leg RST . Pin down the long outer edge & sew. Overlock/ seam finish as desired (check out our post here for more info on seam finishing without an overlocker).

2. Then, with RST, pin down the lower inner leg, not including the crotch & sew this together. Overlock/finish as desired.

You should now have two legs sewn at the side seams

3. Line up the trousers along the crotch RST. Match the centre seams and pin in place all along the crotch seam.

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4. Sew along the crotch seam, and overlock/finish as desired.

5. Press up the hem allowance first 0.5cm, then 1.5cm

6. Hem by hand or by machine using a straight stitch. Repeat for both legs.

7. Press the waistband casing over by 0.5cm, then 2.5cm

8. Pin and stitch in place, leaving a 5cm gap to insert your elastic.

9. Insert your elastic, guiding it using the safety pin secured to one end.

10. Zig zag stitch the two ends of the elastic together, and slip this joined end into the elastic casing.

11. Sew the remainder of the casing channel closed, being careful not to catch the elastic.

12. If you want to add a decorative bow, cut a length of ribbon approximately 60/70cm long. Fold over the ends and stitch in place.

13. Mark the midpoint. Pin this to the centre front seam on your waistband. Stitch in place.

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms Step 13 - Mark the midpoint

14. Tie in a bow!

And you’re finished, well done!

If you make a pair of trousers please let us know if the comments!

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Create Your Own Pyjama Sewing Pattern: Part 1

by Kellie Rose | Dec 1, 2021 | My Makes

We all have that perfect pair of pyjama bottoms – just the right combination of comfiness, cosiness & enough room to account for a mini tea & biscuit feast on an evening! You could try to find a sewing pattern to recreate them, or you can follow our tutorial to create your own pyjama sewing pattern to exactly replicate your favourite PJs!

And the best part is this tutorial can be used to make any size pyjama bottoms. Sewing these is straight forward and definitely possible for a beginner…

Create your own pyjama sewing pattern — Pin for later!

This is a two part tutorial

This post will take you through how to create your pyjama sewing pattern
The second post in this series will take your through the best pyjama fabric choices & a tutorial on how to sew the pyjama bottoms up

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Skill level : Beginner

Approximate sewing time to draft sewing pattern for pyjama bottoms AND sew your pyjama bottoms : A long afternoon

To draft your pyjama bottom sewing pattern you will need

Swedish Tracing Paper or other Pattern Paper or Pattern Card
French Curve or ruler
A pair of pyjama ‘bottoms’ (this could be shorts or trousers) that fit well, with an elastic waistband.
A sharp pencil.

For fabric requirements & notions requirements are in the next post!

Creating your pyjama bottom pattern

Prepare to trace your pyjama bottoms

1.Turn the pyjama bottoms inside out.

2. Put your hand through the bottom hole of one leg, and take the bottom hole of the other leg, pulling it through so that one leg is inside the other.

3. Flatten and smooth out the trouser legs as much as possible, so that the bottom holes of each leg align.

Tracing the back leg for your pyjama sewing pattern

We’re going to create two pattern pieces for your pyjama bottom pattern – a front leg and a back leg.

4. Lay your pyjama bottoms as flat as possible on the paper, with the back leg of the pyjama bottoms on the paper. Make sure the long side seam is flat on the paper. You will be able to see the inner leg seam.

5. Trace along the bottom and the long side seam up to the waistband, marking the corner of the waistband when you reach it. Roll the fabric away from the long side seam, so that the inner seam is flat to the paper. You need to do this as the back leg is wider than the front leg and you need to get the full width.

6. Now trace along the inner seam. You may need to adjust the seam as you go. As you go up the leg towards the crotch it gets a lot wider, so you might need to roll the fabric and adjust more to make it lie flat to the paper.

7. With the fabric rolled away from the side seam, when you reach the crotch apex only trace a little up. Do not trace any further up to the waistband yet. Watch our video below to help

8. Line up the edge of the waistband with the corner of the waistband you drew earlier. Press down firmly with your fingers to hold it in place.

9. Stretch the waistband out so the fabric is flat against the paper, and not gathered. Hold the centre seam of the waistband in place on the opposite side where you have already marked a corner and trace the edge of the waistband.

10. Release the waistband. Line up the centre seam of your waistband with the line you just traced on the edge of the waistband and make a mark down the centre seam.

11. Line up the crotch of your pyjama bottoms on your traced line and finish tracing the curve from where you initially marked

12. Once you have traced around your pyjamas it is likely that your line will be a little wonky! If you have a French Curve, now’s the time to grab it. You are going to neaten up your drawn lines and smooth out your curves.

One side of the French Curve will be straight, and the other has a variable shaped curve which will fit most curves of any dressmaking pattern. It’s a useful tool to have in your sewing arsenal for pattern alterations – just move the curved edge up and down until you have a curve that best matches your drawn line.

If you don’t have a French Curve – just eye up smoothing out your curves and use your ruler on the straight edges.

Now label this piece ‘Back’ and don’t forget to add seam allowances before use. See the note on seam allowances further down the post

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Tracing the front leg for your pyjama sewing pattern

Now we’re going to create a pattern piece for the front leg using the same method….

13. Turn the pyjama bottoms over and again lay them as flat as possible on the paper, but with the front leg of the pyjama bottoms on the paper. Make sure the long side seam is flat on the paper. Make sure the inner leg seam is hidden under the fabric of the leg.

14. Trace along the bottom and the long side seam up to the waistband.

15. Keeping the fabric in place with your hand, lift the folded fabric edge so that the inner side seam is showing. Trace along the inner side seam, adjusting a few cm at a time until you reach the crotch.

16. As with the back of the leg, line up the waistband with the corner you marked, and stretch the waistband out so the fabric is flat against the paper, and not gathered. Hold the centre seam of the waistband in place on the opposite side and trace down the edge of the waistband.

17. Release the waistband. Line up the centre seam of your waistband with the line you just traced on the edge of the waistband and make a mark down the centre seam.

18. Line up the crotch of your pyjama bottoms on your traced line, and finish tracing the curve from where you initially marked.

19. Label this piece ‘Front’ and don’t forget to add seam allowances before use. See the note on seam allowances further down the post

Creating the waistband

We are creating a casing style waistband – this is where you create a casing and thread the elastic through your casing channel:

You need to measure the width of the elastic, add 0.5cm / ¼” to create a generous casing, and add another 0.5cm / ¼” to fold under. In this case we are using 2cm / ¾” wide elastic. Draw a line parallel to, and 3cm / 1 ¼” from the top waist of your pattern.

Now we want to make the lines you’ve traced a bit clearer and smoother. Use your French curve or ruler to smooth out your traced line. Check out the seam allowance video below for how to use the French Curve.

Adding Seam Allowances To Your Pyjama Bottom Pattern

Measure the seam allowance on your original pyjama bottoms. You can either copy and apply this seam allowance, or use a standard 1cm / ⅜” seam allowance to keep things simple (this is what we did)

You need to apply your seam allowance to the side seams, inner leg seams and crotch curves.

Use your ruler or French Curve for this making little dashes or dots 1cm/ 3/8″ from your smoothed out traced line. Please note: In this video we got carried away adding 3/8″ seam allowance and added that on to the waist when we should have added the waistband (just in case you were wondering why yours was different!)

For the hem, you will need a deeper seam allowance. Decide how wide you would like your hem to be, and add another 0.5cm / ¼” to this measurement. For this sample we used a 1.5cm ⅝” hem, and added 0.5cm / ¼”, which will get folded under to enclose the raw edge. You need to add a line parallel to the hemline, 2cm / ¾” from the bottom leg.

Mark on your pattern pieces the same allowance and hem allowance

Cut around your pattern pieces on the drawn seam allowance line.

You should now have a front and back leg pattern pieces. Well done!

Now it’s time to sew up your pyjama bottoms… See the part 2 of this tutorial here for fabric choices & sewing info

Make your own pyjama bottoms tutorial part 2 — Check out the next post in this series!

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What are Continuous Zips? A Product Guide

by Kellie Rose | Nov 23, 2021 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Project Ideas, Tutorials, Zips

Ever wondered what a continuous zip is?

Does adding a zip pull to zip tape seem daunting?

We’re here to help!

Here at Plush Addict we offer a huuuuge selection of zips for sewing to help your projects achieve the look you dreamt of!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

With zipper tape choices ranging from rainbow to block colour… flat to flowery zip pulls, we’re sure to have something for your next project.

Read on for more info about what a continuous zip is, and why you might want to use one instead of a regular zip

Then… see our tutorial on how to add zip pulls to continuous zip tape… We’ve provided you with a photo tutorial, as well as a video demo at the end…

What is a continuous zip?

Continuous zips differ from others in that the zipper tape is sold by the metre, without zip pulls. This means you are able cut your zip to ANY size you like. It also means you can add TWO zipper pulls, cos… ya know… you have to love that look.

What are the benefits of a continuous zip?

Waste less: As you just use the amount of zip tape you need there is an environmental benefit to continuous zipper tape; with a little planning waste can be kept to a minimum and a length, with enough pulls ordered, can become multiple zips.

Any length: Cutting zip tape to size means you can have REALLY long zips!

Multiple zip pulls: It also means you can add TWO zipper pulls to your tape, giving you a funky zip just like this one

Greater personalisation – you can mix and match the zip tape and zip pulls to your heart’s desire

see our continuous zip range

Looking for info on other zip types? Then check out our Zip Types Guide Post

Photo Tutorial: How To Attach Zipper Pulls to Zipper Tape

How to use continuous zips photo tutorial

You will need:

We used:

Important notes

Some zip tape comes with a pull/ slider, check the item description for details.
When ordering zip pulls check they correspond with the tape size/ brand being purchased.

Method

1. Cut the tape to the required length. Use domestic scissors to cut through the teeth.

How to attach zipper pulls to zipper tape - cut the tape to the required length

2. Pull the bottom 10cm of the zipper teeth apart.

How to attach zipper pulls to zipper tape - pull the bottom 10cm of the zipper teeth apart

3. With the back of the zip pull and back of the tape facing upwards thread 1 end of the tape into the zipper from the top. To make this easier angle the teeth into the pull from the side.

How to attach zipper pulls to zipper tape - thread one end of the tape into the zipper from the top

4. Repeat step 4. on the other side. Both sets of teeth want to sit toward the top of the clasp.

How to attach zipper pulls to zipper tape - Both sets of teeth want to sit toward the top of the clasp

5. Keeping the 2 sides of teeth level with each other, hold the zip pull between one finger/ thumb then draw the 2 sides of the tape down through the pull with the other hand. The zip pull should then begin to move up the tape.

Alternatively, you may find it easier to place the zipper pull between the prongs of a fork (check out the video below!)

draw the 2 sides of the tape down through the pull

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6. Slide the pull toward the top of the tape (without coming off the other end) then pull it back down to check the zip works.

check if the zip works

7. If 2 zip pulls are required, repeat steps 1. To 5. from the other end of the tape.

And you’re done!

Handy Hint

If you find yourself struggling using this method try using a fork to hold the zip pull for you: tuck the bar of the zip between the central teeth (not the clasp where the teeth need to go).

…And if your fork won’t stay still; hold it steady with a blob of blue-tack.

Video Tutorial: How To Attach Zipper Pulls to Zipper Tape

Check out our video on how to attach zipper pulls to continuous zipper tape

Want to learn how to sew a zip in?

Find our tutorial on the blog where you can learn how to sew a cushion with piping and a zip or why not try making this reading cushion?

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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Calico fabric: What exactly is it?

by Kellie Rose | Nov 6, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide

Welcome to your ultimate resource for everything calico! Whether you’re a beginner dabbling with stitches or a seasoned sewist looking to up your fabric game, this guide is here to demystify the humble yet mighty calico fabric. Why settle for confusing or half-baked articles when you can dive into a detailed, entertaining, and absolutely packed guide? Let’s get you sewing smarter, not harder.

What You’ll Discover:

The history of calico fabric (it’s more exciting than it sounds, promise).
Why sewists swear by calico for beginners and pros alike.
Surprising uses for calico – hint: it’s not just for mock-ups.
How to choose the right calico fabric for your projects.
Practical tips for working with calico (no more frayed edges or wasted fabric!).

Just a heads up! Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. That means we may earn a small commission - at no extra cost to you - if you make a purchase through them. It’s a little way you can support us and help keep all this awesome content free. Thanks for supporting us! Please read our full disclaimer here

What Is Calico Fabric, and Why Should You Care?

Calico fabric is the unsung hero of the sewing world. Made from unbleached and often undyed cotton, it’s sturdy, versatile, and eco-friendly. Think of it as the dependable friend who’s always there when you need them—no frills, no drama, just pure reliability.

Historically, calico originated in Calicut (modern-day Kozhikode) in India around the 11th century. Traders were so captivated by its durability and charm that they couldn’t stop exporting it to Europe. Fast forward to today, and calico is a staple in sewing rooms worldwide. It’s your go-to fabric for testing patterns, crafting, and even creating stunning finished products. Talk about a glow-up!

The Ultimate Guide to Calico Fabric Everything You Need to Know

The Benefits of Calico Fabric

1: Versatility That’s Hard to Beat

Calico is like the Swiss Army knife of fabrics. Need a fabric for quilting? Check. Looking for a material for practice runs? Double-check. Want something for eco-conscious bags? Triple-check. Its natural texture makes it adaptable for countless projects, from practical to decorative.

2: Affordable Yet Durable

For those of us watching our wallets (and who isn’t?), calico is a budget-friendly choice. But don’t mistake “cheap” for “flimsy”—this fabric can take a beating, whether it’s heavy-duty sewing or everyday use.

3: Eco-Friendly and Sustainable

In a world grappling with environmental concerns, calico stands tall. Its production process is relatively low-impact, especially if you opt for organic options. Plus, its biodegradable nature means you’re leaving less of a footprint. Saving the planet and creating beautiful things? Win-win.

Calico Fabric: Types and Their Best Uses

Not all calico is created equal. Let’s break down the types so you know exactly what you’re working with.

Standard Calico

Texture: Crisp and a little coarse.
Best For: Pattern testing, tote bags, and lining material.
Example Use: A beginner trying their hand at a simple dress pattern can test fit and form without worrying about ruining expensive fabric.

Soft Calico

Texture: Slightly smoother, with a finer weave.
Best For: Clothing and home décor items.
Analogy Opportunity: Think of soft calico as the “business casual” of fabrics—just dressy enough for special occasions but still comfy for everyday use.

Fire Retardant Calico

Texture: Treated with chemicals to resist flames.
Best For: Theatre backdrops, stage props, and upholstery.
Case Study: In 2015, a community theatre production used fire-retardant calico for all their set designs, saving money and meeting safety standards without compromising aesthetics.

Looking to expand your fabric knowledge?

Check out our Fabric Guides for tips on working with all types of fabric

Explore Fabric Guides

How to Work with Calico Fabric

Pre-Washing: A Step You Can’t Skip

Calico tends to shrink after its first wash. Toss it in with a mild detergent and let it air dry before you start sewing. Trust me, future you will thank you for avoiding that heart-sinking “why-doesn’t-this-fit” moment.

Cutting and Sewing

Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to avoid fraying.
Set your sewing machine to a medium stitch length for best results.
Press seams with an iron to keep everything crisp and professional-looking.

Finishing Touches

Consider using pinking shears or a zig-zag stitch to prevent the edges from fraying. Alternatively, serging the edges works wonders if you’ve got the equipment.

Creative Uses for Calico

1: Mock-Ups (Toiles)

If you’re testing a pattern, calico is your best friend. Its stiffness helps highlight any design flaws, so you can make adjustments before cutting into your pricier fabric.

2: Home Décor

From pillow covers to curtains, calico neutral tone makes it a blank canvas for your creativity. Paint it, dye it, stamp it—go wild!

3: Arts and Crafts

Want to get the kids involved? Calico is perfect for painting projects, custom bags, and more. Plus, it’s sturdy enough to handle enthusiastic little hands.

4: Eco-Friendly Bags

Say goodbye to single-use plastics and hello to chic calico totes. A quick sew and you’ve got yourself a reusable bag that’s both stylish and sustainable.

How to Choose the Right Calico for Your Project

When shopping for calico, consider:

Weight: Lightweight calico is great for crafting, while heavyweight calico works better for upholstery.
Finish: Unbleached calico has a rustic charm, while bleached calico offers a cleaner, more polished look.
Purpose: Match the fabric’s properties to your project needs (e.g., fire retardant for safety-critical applications).

Want More Sewing Know-How?

Explore Our Haberdashery Guides

A Few Fun Facts About Calico

Did you know the first ever printed calico in England dates back to 1630? In the 1630s, the East India Company began importing intricately hand-painted and block-printed cotton textiles from India to England. These vibrant fabrics were revolutionary, introducing Europeans to colourful, lightweight cotton textiles previously unknown in Western markets.
In the 18th century, calico became so popular in France that a temporary ban was placed on its importation. Apparently, fabric addiction was real even back then.
Mahatma Gandhi promoted spinning calico fabric as a symbol of self-reliance during India’s independence movement. So, every time you sew with calico, you’re participating in a piece of history.

Sewing Bot 2

Common Calico Problems and How to Solve Them

Fraying

Solution: Use pinking shears or overlock stitches for clean edges.

Stiffness

Solution: Wash it with a fabric softener or give it a vinegar soak.

Staining

Solution: Stick to mild detergents and avoid bleach, which can damage the fibres.

Sewing Bot 2

Calico fabric is a dream come true for sewists of all skill levels. Whether you’re testing patterns, sewing eco-friendly bags, or creating one-of-a-kind décor, calico offers versatility, durability, and sustainability. By choosing this fabric, you’re not just sewing—you’re making a statement about creativity, resourcefulness, and a love for the craft.

Your Calico Fabric Questions Answered

Calico fabric is a versatile and eco-friendly choice for many sewing projects. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned sewist, understanding its properties can enhance your crafting experience. Dive into our FAQs to learn more about this remarkable fabric.

What is calico fabric made of?

Calico is crafted from unbleached, undyed cotton, offering a natural and straightforward textile option.

Can I dye calico fabric?

Yes, calico’s neutral base is ideal for dyeing, allowing you to create vibrant, personalized colors.

Is calico suitable for clothing?

Absolutely! It’s perfect for lightweight garments like summer dresses and aprons, providing comfort and breathability.

Can beginners sew with calico?

Definitely! It’s affordable, easy to work with, and forgiving of mistakes.

Does calico shrink when washed?

Yes, pre-washing is a must to avoid size issues later.

How do I prevent calico from fraying?

To stop fraying, use pinking shears, a zig-zag stitch, or a serger for clean, durable edges.

Where can I buy calico fabric?

You can find calico at most fabric stores, as well as a wide selection from online retailers.

Is calico eco-friendly?

Yes, especially when you choose organic options. Calico is biodegradable and produced sustainably, making it an eco-conscious choice.

What’s the difference between calico and muslin?

Calico is heavier and coarser than muslin, which is finer and softer.

Can calico be used for quilting?

Yes! It’s a popular choice for quilt backings and test blocks.

So there you have it—everything you need to know about the humble yet mighty calico fabric. Whether you’re crafting a reusable bag, testing a pattern, or sewing your next masterpiece, calico has your back. Affordable, versatile, and environmentally friendly, it’s the unsung hero of the sewing world. Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice. Grab some calico, fire up your sewing machine, and let your creativity take centre stage. Happy sewing!

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