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How To: Sew A Piped Cushion With A Zip

How To: Sew A Piped Cushion With A Zip

Do you agree that adding piping to your cushions elevates the look? If you’ve wondered how to sew piped cushions then we’re here to help!

Not only that, we’re going to walk you through how to sew a cushion with piping AND a zip! We’ve used woven interfacing to stabilise this cushion to make it so much easier

What You Will Need:

45cm square quilting cotton fabric

45x48cm quilting cotton for cushion back

0.5m Fusible interlining. Woven interlining gives best result

51cm Closed ended dress zip

2m Piping

Thread

If you are new to the wonders of Woven Interfacing then check out our full guide here

*Important notes*

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1:

Cut out the following using the measurements above:

1 Cushion front and interlining the same size

1 Cushion back and interlining the same size

Step 2:

Apply the fusible interlining to the wrong side of the front and back cushion pieces following the manufacturers instructions.

Step 3:

Measure and mark a line 11.5cm from the shortest edge of the back piece.

Step 4:

Cut along the line to for the zip opening.

Step 5:

Tidy the 2 raw edges of the zip opening using an overlocker or zig zag stitch.

Step 6:

Clip or pin the 2 sides of the zip opening right sides together.

Step 7:

Baste along the zip opening (it’s important to use a large length stitch for easy stitch removal later) Use a 1.5cm seam allowance and contrasting thread.

Step 8:

Once stitched, Press the seam open.

Step 9:

Align the zipper teeth along the seam line.Position the zip pull side down zip bar at the bottom of the project, pull overhanging the top.

Step 10:

Tape or baste the zip in place.

Step 11:

Starting at the end nearest the zip pull, begin sewing using a 2.5 length straight stitch and a zipper foot. Backstitch at the start then sew down to the bottom of the zip. If the zip has a metal bar be careful near the bottom.

Step 12:

Stop sewing just below the bottom bar. Turn and sew across the bottom carefully. Backstitch for added strength.

Step 13:

Turn and sew along the other side of the zip teeth to the top and backstitch

Step 14:

Turn the cushion back over and unpick the basting stitches using a seam ripper. Remove all loose threads (a lint roller can help with this) then test the zip.

Step 15:

Fold the cushion front panel in half to find the bottom centre. Mark it with a pin.

Step 16:

On the right side of the cushion panel, pin the piping in place from the centre mark leaving a 5cm tail:

  • With the piping cord inwards, align the raw edges of the piping tape with the raw edge of the cushion front & pin in place.
  • Clip up to the piping stitch line in the piping tape to ease the piping around the corners.
  • Keep pinning until the pin mark is reached again. Don’t cut the tail end.

Step 17:

Baste the piping in place 8cm from the centre bottom mark. Stop sewing 8cm from the centre bottom leaving a 16cm gap. When sewing, use a zipper foot and sew close to the piping cord.

Step 18:

To join the piping take the tail from the right, move the left to one side. Position the piping tail along the bottom edge overlapping the centre bottom pin.

Step 19:

Align the crease of a spare piece of piping (or the other tail end) along the left of the pin. The spare piping should be at 90 degrees to the tape being attached.

Step 20:

Mark the piping to be attached along the left side of the tape from step 19.

Cut along the marking.

Step 21:

Repeat steps 18 to 20 for the left side, marking and cutting the tape right of the pin. The ends will form a small overlap

Step 22:

Unpick the 2 ends of the piping to the seamline from step 17.

Step 23:

Trim the ends of the cord, NOT the piping casing, to the pin mark.

Step 24:

Open out the ends of the piping casing. Line them up right sides facing at 90 degrees to each other in an L shape and pin.

Step 25:

Draw a line from the recessed casing corner on the left, to the recessed corner on the right. A triangle shape should form between the 2 outer edges and the drawn line.

Step 26:

Sew along the drawn line with a stitch length of 2.5, backstitching start and end.

Step 27:

Cut off the corner to leave a 5mm seam allowance and press the seam open. Tuck in and align the cord ends then finish basting the piping in place.

Step 28:

Align the cushion front and back rights sides together. Vertically pin the opening end of the zip then unzip it by 10cm.

Step 29:

Clip or pin the 4 sides of the cushion pieces together.

Step 30:

Sew the cushion front and back together using a zipper foot. Sew inside or along the basted piping seam to achieve a snug fit and hide the basting stitches Carefully backstitch over the 2 tape ends for strength.

Step 31:

Clip the corners and turn the cushion out the right way.

Step 32:

For a polished finish, press the completed cushion cover.

Voila! You’re all done! We hope you feel proud of your accomplishment and will enjoy your new cushion.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

A Fabric Guide: Felt Fabric

A Fabric Guide: Felt Fabric

Why in the world would you need a guide on felt fabric? Well, chances are, you’ve had your hands on felt before—remember the magic of Fuzzy Felt? Those were the days, right? Creating scenes with Fuzzy Felt was practically a childhood rite of passage.

Felt isn’t just any fabric; it’s the cool kid on the block, coming in a mishmash of shapes, sizes, and qualities. So, let’s break it down: how to pick the right felt for your project and dish out 11 game-changing sewing tips for felt fabrics.

Felt is that laid-back friend who doesn’t need to be woven or knitted to hang together. It’s made from fibers chilling out together, getting tangled when needled, or just lounging in some heat.

True felt is like a cosmopolitan at a party, made from anything—wool, fur, mohair, cotton, rayon/viscose, or other synthetic fibers. Making felt is like crafting a fine cocktail: pound those fibers, compress them, shrink them, then add a splash of moisture, a dash of temperature change, pressure, and finally, rough them up a bit. Talk about a process!

Felt Fabric Guide Sample Project: What’s Felt Good For?

Depending on the felt, it can either be your go-to for crafty shenanigans or the MVP for sturdier projects.

Retail stores usually flaunt two types: acrylic (the life of the party for crafts, Christmas ornaments, appliqués) and wool felt (the durable one, perfect for soft toys that’ll see a lot of action, not to mention chic bags, hats, and sneaky garment details).

Fun Felt Facts (That Are Actually Fun)
  1. Felt is the Houdini of fabrics—it doesn’t unravel.
  2. Sewing with felt is as stable as your bestie.
  3. Don’t you dare dry clean felt; it’s more sensitive than your ex.
  4. Felt can get a bit clingy, bobbling and pilling with too much attention.
  5. Stretched felt is like a bad haircut; there’s no coming back.
  6. Steam? Felt can’t even.

Top Tips for Sewing with Felt (Because We’re All About That Life)

  1. Let felt do its thing in the sewing machine and feed naturally through; don’t be pushy.
  2. Dry cleaning felt is a no-go zone.
  3. Be cool when pressing & use little or no moisture when pressing. If you must, use a pressing cloth.
  4. Hand wash felt like it’s a delicate treasure in cold water & a mild soap, then let it air dry.
  5. DO NOT  wring or twist felt as it will misshapen.
  6. Cut with precision—rotary cutters for the win, and keep your fabric scissors safe.
  7. Thread choice? Polyester or cotton will have your back.
  8. Needle and stitch length? Start with an 80/12 and aim for 2.5mm – 3.0mm.
  9. Presser foot: Use a standard presser foot
  10. Press those seams open, no need to finish—felt doesn’t play by those rules.
  11. Always sew a test seam.

Real Talk on Felted Fabrics

Felted fabrics like boiled wool and melton? They’re the posers of the felt world. True felt is all about those raw fibers, while felted fabrics are just playing dress-up after a shrink and full session.

DIY: Be the Maker of Your Own Wool Felt Destiny

Can’t find 100% wool felt? Make your own. Raid your closet for old wool blankets or jumpers, then give them a spa day in hot water and a tumble dryer. Check out this tutorial for the nitty-gritty and then brag about it on social media.

Did this guide help you? If it did I’d appreciate it if you’d leave a comment or a ❤️ on this post to help other people find my work! And if you’d like to hear more from me I’d love it if you would subscribe below… thanks so much!

A Quick Tip For Cutting Out Slippery Fabrics

A Quick Tip For Cutting Out Slippery Fabrics

Despairing this morning when I realised Little Plush had zero leggings that fitted properly (how do they grow sooo fast?!) I decided it would be quicker to sew some up than actually get to the shops. If you’ve not tried sewing leggings – don’t be scared – they are SO easy and are super quick to boot – win win. (more…)

How To Make A Zippered Money Apron

How To Make A Zippered Money Apron

As I’ve previously mentioned we’re going on the road which of course means there’s been a ton of things to think about and organise, one of which is what would we do  with money on the day. If you follow me on Instagram then you will have seen me whip up some of these aprons a few weeks ago and I’m really please with how they’ve turned out. I had a few criteria, I wanted them to have a zip, I wanted a pocket for my phone and I wanted to make them from denim so they were super durable and wouldn’t need any kind of interfacing and most importantly so the Plush Boys would be happy to wear them. I didn’t want any kind of seam at the bottom of the apron to eliminate bulk and save myself a step. You could equally use 2 smaller pieces of fabric for the aprons and sew at the bottom but for some reason I was quite set on not having a bottom seam (maybe I am worried all of my money might fall out!) These aprons would be perfect for you to use at a craft fair if you have any coming up and will keep all your pennies safe and secure. (more…)