Autumn is definitely here! And so are pricey energy bills, so there’s no surprise many of you are sewing up hot water bottle covers to help keep you keep toasty in bed whilst saving energy by avoiding putting the heating on. We’ve had lots of people get in touch to ask what is best wadding for a hot water bottle cover so I made this quick video to talk you through some options…
WHAT’S THE BEST WADDING FOR A HOT WATER BOTTLE COVER?
If you found yourself here because you’re making a hot water bottle cover then you’ll need a pattern so hop on over and grab yourshere! Our gift to you to help you out on those chilly nights… You can grab your free pattern & tutorial to make your own hot water bottle cover overhere
Thank you for supporting ouronline shopwith your sewing shopping… It means the world to us & enables us to keep putting out FREE content like this for you to make & create❤️
If you are interested in the full details of the waddings I mention in the video then you can check them out over on our website :
If you have any fabric or product-related questions please don’t hesitate to get to leave a comment! We love hearing from you and your questions give me ideas for helpful content we can create for you…
Welcome to post number 4 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to an annoying problem – how to enlarge a collar that is too tight… without any sewing! We’re going to be talking about how to use use a collar expander in this quick product guide.
We wanted to bring these little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!
These nifty little extenders are NO SEW and a great little temporary fix that can even be switched between garments.
With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus all sorts of different ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that we already own.
A shocking 300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK. according to Wrap, the waste charity, this is up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint. And small things like this can really add up.
Being able to adjust the size of a collar that’s snug can help give a shirt a longer life. These collar expanders can also be used on skirt or trouser waistbands too!
Expanders aren’t permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched between different shirts – just make sure you take them out before your shirt goes in the wash!
The collar expanders come in a variety of sizes and finishes…. make sure you select the best match for your garment, although it’s unlikely you will see it if you’re wearing a tie, you do need to make sure the collar expander will fit through your garment’s existing buttonhole
These plastic collar extenders will increase the neck size of a shirt by half a collar size and do not stretch.
Take the white disc in your fingers and feed the loop through the buttonhole.
Loop the band over the existing button on the collar.
Alternatively you can start by looping the loop around the existing button and then feeding the white disc through the buttonhole.
5. This is what the collar extenders look like when used correctly.
6. The larger collar extenders can also be used for waistbands. You need to match the size of the disc on the Expanders as closely as possible to the original button.
And that’s it! It really couldn’t be more simple, could it?
Check out Hemline’s video for a demo of the metal variety, which are stretchy, rather than fixed like this one
Thank you for supporting ouronline shopwith your sewing shopping… It means the world to us & enables us to keep putting out FREE content like this for you to make & create❤️
Linking Collar or Waist Expanders Together
Should you need greater ease at the waistband or collar, the expanders can be looped together to create a larger stretch like this.
So you can see how easy it is to prolong the life of your garment if it’s become a bit snug.
Fold Over Elastic(or ‘FOE’ for short) is a thin, lightweight, flat elastic which has a crease down the centre of its length. The crease makes it easy to fold in half along the length, encasing the seam edge of your pattern piece.
Sometimes fold over elastic has a matte side & a shiny side – the shiny side is the ‘right’ side and the matte side is the ‘wrong’ side.
Boring Legal Bit:If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewedhere
What is Fold Over Elastic Used for?
Anywhere you need a stretchy binding in a funky colour or print really!
Some popular project ideas for fold over elastic are:
Legs, waistbands and armholes on lingerie, underwear & swimwear
Edge finishes on shorts, vests and other undergarments
Edge finishes on sportswear/activewear
Cloth nappies
Edge finishes on expandable pouches and pockets on bags.
Simple knotted hair ties
Headbands
Face Masks
It can be a nice way to add contrast accents or fun prints to your underwear, sportswear or knit/jersey fabric projects, whilst finishing the raw edges of your seams easily.
It is usually used to finish armholes, leg holes, waistbands and necklines on garments that need a lot of recovery, and that stretch to stay close to the body with movement, like underwear and other undergarments like vests, tights and leggings.
Fold over elastic can also be useful in bag making a lot in bag making too for pockets that would benefit from being taut to the bag like these
Fold Over Elastic can be sewn on a regular sewing machine, so no need to be wrestling with an overlocker or any fancy feet or accessories!
Fold Over Elastic has a similar function tobias bindingas it completely finishes a raw edge, but fold over elastic can stretch & recover so it keeps the edge close to the body, or it provides a taut edge for pockets on bags etc.
Usually, the narrower the Fold Over Elastic, the more stretch it has, and the wider it is, the less it stretches. You can usually interchange different widths of Fold Over Elastic in your projects, but make sure you double-check you have the right length as differences in stretch means you will require different lengths, and account for the width in your seam allowances.
Preparing and Cutting Fold Over Elastic
Many patterns will call for you to cut your elastic to a specific length, but if no instructions are given, there is an easy way to figure out what length to cut your fold over elastic (or any elastic!) to.
Begin by measuring the lengths of the leg openings, waistband, or other pattern piece you are applying the elastic to.
Check the stretch of your elastic, if it’s really stretchy, you can get away with the elastic being a little shorter. If it’s quite hard to stretch, you will need the elastic to be a little longer.
The general rule is that elastic must be shorter than the length of the edge to which it is being applied to. Deduct 10% from the length of the edge, and this will give you your elastic length. You can also adjust this percentage up or down depending on the stretchiness of your elastic.
e.g : 50cm is the length of the leg opening. 50-5cm =45cm.
45cm is the length of your elastic.
Adjusting your pattern to use Fold Over Elastic
Using Fold Over Elastic on the edge of your garment means that the edge is finished and enclosed at the width it is cut, so no fabric is removed due to a seam allowance, or folding under and hemming. If you want to use Fold Over Elastic on a project that requires a different finish (like regular elastic or picot trim elastic types), you will need to trim away the excess fabric before using the Elastic. Simply take your pattern piece and trim off the seam allowance width on the edges you want to apply the elastic to.
If your pattern needs you to use Fold Over Elastic but you don’t have any to hand, and want to use a different finish on the edge, add the seam allowance or hem desired to the edges where the elastic or your other trim will be applied.
Needle– Ajersey,stretchorballpoint needleare the best choices, as these needles slide between the fibres rather than piercing them. You might be ok with auniversal needleif that’s all you have – just make sure you test first.
Thread– Try to match the thread you use with the fibre that makes up the elastic. For most types of Fold Over Elastic a strong, polyester thread would work best, and would also help create strong stitches for any stretch or stress on the item you make.All-purpose Polyester threadis a good choice.
Stitch Type– Use either a medium zig zag or a 3 step zig-zag stitch. Set your machine to 2 wide with a stitch length of 2.5 to start then test. This is a good setting to start but stitch lengths/ widths will vary from project to project, so test first to see what works for you.
Sewing –Stretch the elastic a little when sewing to evenly distribute across the unfinished edge.
Sewing –Try to keep a slow steady pace whilst sewing, and avoid pulling the elastic or the fabric through the machine more than you need to. This will help you avoid gathers or puckers as you won’t stretch the fabric whilst sewing.
Sewing –Sew a sample swatch using a square of your final fabric and a length of Fold Over Elastic to help achieve the best tension. Playing around on your machine with a sample means you won’t spend time unpicking your final project if the tension is off. The best tension will vary significantly between different fabrics and elastics, even of the same composition or type.
This method is perfect for beginners as it secures the elastic and fabric in place before fully attaching the Fold Over Elastic. This means there is less chance of the elastic or fabric slipping out of place.
The disadvantage of this method however, is that you can see the initial line of stitching from the wrong side of the garment once complete.
Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.
2. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.
This stitch line will only be visible from the wrong side of your finished garment, but secures the elastic in place on the back side of the fabric.
Carefully trim away the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place.
Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch.
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Method 2 : The 1-step method
This method creates the perfect enclosed edge, with a single line of stitching so it’s neater BUT it requires a little more patience and more pins.
Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic.
Line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place.
To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.
2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.
Method 3: The 1 step method (with a little help!)
This is the same method as above, but with a little additional help that does not show on the final garment.
Apply an adhesive, such asQuilters Tape, Wundawebor a regularglue pen(do not use runny glue or PVA) along the edge of the WS of the fabric. If the adhesive is wider than you FOE you can just trim it (orclean your ironafter if you get in to trouble here!)
Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic & line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Press in place so the adhesive sticks to the back of the fabric and the Fold Over Elastic. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.
Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.
Don’t worry about the garment edge being stiff, as both of these adhesives will dissolve after the first wash.
This is the same method as method 1, but with a basting stitch that can be removed easily.
Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place if required. Hand stitch/baste in place by hand, using long, fairly loose stitches. Only secure with a knot at one end – this allows for easier removal.
2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
3. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.
4. Flip over the elastic, and gently pull the basting stitch out of the fabric and elastic. If it is stuck, gently use a seam ripper or small pair of scissors to remove it.
Sewing Fold Over Elastic in the round
Sometimes you won’t be able to apply the Fold Over Elastic to a flat edge, where the seam is sewn after to join the two pieces. You will need to apply the Fold Over Elastic in the round on some patterns, on armholes, necklines and even some waistlines.
To do this, you need to sew together the ends of the Fold Over Elastic before you apply it to your garment.
There are two main methods;
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Method 1 – the straight join
Simply sew across the ends of the Fold Over Elastic, once cut to the desired length, then pin and sew it to the rounded edge. You can use any of the above methods to apply it in one or two steps, but we recommend trimming away the excess fabric if using the two step method.
Method 2 – the mitred join
A mitred or bias join is where the two ends of the Fold Over Elastic cross at a 90 degree angle instead of aligning as above. This allows you to ease the Fold Over Elastic into the round a little easier as there is ease on the bias as well as the stretch. You cross over the ends of the Fold Over Elastic at a 90 degree angle, then sew from point to point where the top end crosses the bottom end. Trim excess bulk from the seam and then apply as above.
We hope you found this product guide helpful. Drop us a message with any comments or questions you have!
Welcome to post number 2 in our Care & Repair Series! Today we’re offering a solution to a common problem – how to really quickly and easily extend a waistband… without any sewing! We’ll highlight this little wonder product and run you through why you might need them and how to use these waistband extenders.
Let’s be real. The pandemic has meant that many of us have put on some extra pounds and clothes might have become a little snug!
Or perhaps you’re in the early stages of pregnancy and could do with an extra bit of room before buying some maternity clothes?
And let’s not forget – some days we’re just bigger than others… This can be due to our monthly cycles, or perhaps eating certain foods can make you bloat.
You might need some extra comfort post-surgery, or just after a jolly good meal! Or perhaps something has shrunk in the wash (that old chestnut…!)
Our bodies can even fluctuate in size from day to day so a quick temporary fix can help ease discomfort.
We wanted to bring this little wonder products to your attention – who knew they were even a thing?!
And as these nifty little extenders are a NO SEW temporary fix it means they can even be switched between garments to extend their life.
With this series of Care & Repair blogs we really want to bring into focus ways in which we can all reuse, repurpose, repair and rejuvenate the clothes that are already in our wardrobes.
300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill every year in the UK, making up 5% of the UK’s carbon and water footprint, according to Wrap, the waste charity. There’s never been a more important tome to make do and mend.
Being able to easily adjust the size of waistbands can help give them an extra lease of life and also improve their comfort by adding a little extra room. The wasit band extenders generally give you and extra will extend the waistline by approximately 2.5cm- 5cm on your waist band and are suitable for trousers, jeans or skirts.
No need to replace perfectly good garments that haven’t worn out; this is better for our wallets and for the planet – win win!
Extenders are not permanent fixtures to your garments so they can easily be switched out as required. Just make sure you remove them before laundering!
The waist extenders come in a variety of options…. make sure you select the best match for your garment.
You can also link multiple extenders together to achieve the level of fit you require – read to the end of this post to see this in action…
How to use waist band extenders
Select the Waist Band Extender product which best matches the fastening and colour of your garment. There are button, hooks and jean button products to choose from
Waistband Expander
2. Thread the existing fastening through one of the holes on the extender piece
3. Thread the fastening on the extender through the garment hole
Voila! Extra comfort at the waist in a jiffy!
Check out Hemline’s video here to see how the hook product works
Ever heard of manilla pattern card and wondered what it is, and how it’s used in the sewing industry?
This special card is used extensively by industry professionals, pattern cutters, dressmakers & couture houses alike. It is specifically manufactured for making dressmaking pattern pieces and pattern cutting blocks more durable.
But why leave this amazing product for the professionals to benefit from when the home sewist can find so many uses for it?!
If you have a “Tried & Tested” dressmaking pattern you might want to consider investing in some Manila pattern card to preserve the life of your perfect pattern pieces, as well as making them easier for you to trace around.
If you are pattern cutting at home or tracing standard blocks, using this card means they can your pattern pieces be used over and again as a starting point for all basic garments.
Although we are focussing on dressmaking patterns here, this versatile card can be used for any of your sewing patterns… Think bag patterns, pouch patterns, bib patterns toy patterns… In fact, ANY pattern that you find yourself using time and time again would benefit from being traced on to this card.
In this guide we’ll not only give you the low down about this Pro-Product, but we’ll also walk you through two ways you can trace off and preserve one of your beloved patterns on to this useful card.
What is Manilla Pattern Making Card?
Used in garment making and pattern cutting, this card is thick & weighty enough to lay flat when cutting patterns. No pins are needed and minimal pattern weights are required, so it saves time in the long run.
Even though it’s durable, this card is also thin & lightweight enough to cut, fold, roll and store easily at home.
It is made by gluing 2 sheets of manilla card together once manufactured. This gives the card a smooth, firm and hard wearing surface and a clean tracing edge on pattern pieces & blocks.
What are the benefits of using pattern template card?
Tracing patterns on to manilla card will preserve the longevity of your sewing patterns that can get easily damaged through repeated use
Save time when tracing or cutting patterns as pins are not required
You get a sharp edge on your pattern piece to trace around making it easier with a rotary cutter or fabric pen
How to preserve a dressmaking pattern
Boring Legal Bit:If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewedhere
This method is particularly useful for preserving basic core pattern blocks, that will be traced around many times
1) Cut out your pattern piece on to pattern tracing paper, including any marks, dots and notches. Swedish Tracing Paper is ideal to use here
2) Lay the pattern piece flat on top of the card, using pattern weights. It needs to be completely flat so you may want to press it before proceeding.
3) Trace around all edges and markings of your pattern piece, using a long ruler or french curve to ensure you are creating accurate lines.
5) Remove the pattern piece, and cut around your new card pattern. Transfer any markings, such as notches and dots, using an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches.
Have you seen our Swedish Tracing Paper Guide? It’s pattern paper you can sew! Check outthis postfor more info
6) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.
Or you can trace around them to quickly create markings for your basic block on paper, which can then be adapted to make a new pattern design.
Use a hole punch to create a hole in the pattern piece, and you can store them on thread, string or a wire hook to hang them on a rail.
Method2: use Glue
In this method you glue your pattern piece to the card and then cut round the edge. All of your pattern markings will already be visible for the original pattern piece
1) Using a glue stick (ideally a fairly ‘dry’ glue that isn’t too wet and won’t cause your pattern to wrinkle) or a spray adhesive stick your paper pattern to the pattern card.
You can either cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet, or do it piece by piece. You will get a neater result sticking the pattern down as a full sheet.
2) Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots. Use an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches.
3) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.
And you’re done!
We hope your found this product guide and tutorial on how to preserve a pattern on manilla card helpful
