How To Use Fold Over Elastic

How To Use Fold Over Elastic

Have you heard about fold over elastic? Ever wondered what this product is, where it can be used and how to apply fold over elastic?

You’re in the right place! In this product guide we’re going to shine a light on all things fold over elastic so grab a cuppa and read on!

Fold Over Elastic

In this Fold Over Elastic product guide we will be covering:

  • What Is Fold Over Elastic
  • What Is Fold Over Elastic Used for?
  • How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

What is Fold Over Elastic?

Fold Over Elastic (or ‘FOE’ for short) is a thin, lightweight, flat elastic which has a crease down the centre of its length. The crease makes it easy to fold in half along the length, encasing the seam edge of your pattern piece.

Fold over elastic or FOE - thin lightweight flat elastic with crease down its length

 

Sometimes fold over elastic has a matte side & a shiny side – the shiny side is the ‘right’ side and the matte side is the ‘wrong’ side.

Fold Over Elastic comes in a wide variety of colours & patterns – we have a great selection of printed options and almost every colour you can imagine!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

What is Fold Over Elastic Used for?

Anywhere you need a stretchy binding in a funky colour or print really!

Some popular project ideas for fold over elastic are:

  • Legs, waistbands and armholes on lingerie, underwear & swimwear
  • Edge finishes on shorts, vests and other undergarments
  • Edge finishes on sportswear/activewear
  • Cloth nappies
  • Edge finishes on expandable pouches and pockets on bags.
  • Simple knotted hair ties
  • Headbands
  • Face Masks

It can be a nice way to add contrast accents or fun prints to your underwear, sportswear or knit/jersey fabric projects, whilst finishing the raw edges of your seams easily.

It is usually used to finish armholes, leg holes, waistbands and necklines on garments that need a lot of recovery, and that stretch to stay close to the body with movement, like underwear and other undergarments like vests, tights and leggings.

Fold over elastic can also be useful in bag making a lot in bag making too for pockets that would benefit from being taut to the bag like these

 

Uses of fold over elastic - bag making

From Lovelucie.org

from Treasurie.com

Fold Over Elastic can be sewn on a regular sewing machine, so no need to be wrestling with an overlocker or any fancy feet or accessories!

Fold Over Elastic has a similar function to bias binding as it completely finishes a raw edge, but fold over elastic can stretch & recover so it keeps the edge close to the body, or it provides a taut edge for pockets on bags etc.

Usually, the narrower the Fold Over Elastic, the more stretch it has, and the wider it is, the less it stretches. You can usually interchange different widths of Fold Over Elastic in your projects, but make sure you double-check you have the right length as differences in stretch means you will require different lengths, and account for the width in your seam allowances.

Preparing and Cutting Fold Over Elastic

Many patterns will call for you to cut your elastic to a specific length, but if no instructions are given, there is an easy way to figure out what length to cut your fold over elastic (or any elastic!) to.

  • Begin by measuring the lengths of the leg openings, waistband, or other pattern piece you are applying the elastic to.
  • Check the stretch of your elastic, if it’s really stretchy, you can get away with the elastic being a little shorter. If it’s quite hard to stretch, you will need the elastic to be a little longer.
  • The general rule is that elastic must be shorter than the length of the edge to which it is being applied to. Deduct 10% from the length of the edge, and this will give you your elastic length. You can also adjust this percentage up or down depending on the stretchiness of your elastic.

e.g : 50cm is the length of the leg opening. 50-5cm =45cm. 

45cm is the length of your elastic.

Adjusting your pattern to use Fold Over Elastic

 

Using Fold Over Elastic on the edge of your garment means that the edge is finished and enclosed at the width it is cut, so no fabric is removed due to a seam allowance, or folding under and hemming. If you want to use Fold Over Elastic on a project that requires a different finish (like regular elastic or picot trim elastic types), you will need to trim away the excess fabric before using the Elastic. Simply take your pattern piece and trim off the seam allowance width on the edges you want to apply the elastic to.

If your pattern needs you to use Fold Over Elastic but you don’t have any to hand, and want to use a different finish on the edge, add the seam allowance or hem desired to the edges where the elastic or your other trim will be applied.


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Sewing and Handling Tips for Fold Over Elastic

  • Needle – A jersey, stretch or ballpoint needle are the best choices, as these needles slide between the fibres rather than piercing them. You might be ok with a universal needle if that’s all you have – just make sure you test first.
  • Thread – Try to match the thread you use with the fibre that makes up the elastic. For most types of Fold Over Elastic a strong, polyester thread would work best, and would also help create strong stitches for any stretch or stress on the item you make. All-purpose Polyester thread is a good choice.
  • Stitch Type – Use either a medium zig zag or a 3 step zig-zag stitch. Set your machine to 2 wide with a stitch length of 2.5 to start then test. This is a good setting to start but stitch lengths/ widths will vary from project to project, so test first to see what works for you.
  • Sewing – Stretch the elastic a little when sewing to evenly distribute across the unfinished edge.
  • Sewing – Try to keep a slow steady pace whilst sewing, and avoid pulling the elastic or the fabric through the machine more than you need to. This will help you avoid gathers or puckers as you won’t stretch the fabric whilst sewing.
  • Sewing – Sew a sample swatch using a square of your final fabric and a length of Fold Over Elastic to help achieve the best tension. Playing around on your machine with a sample means you won’t spend time unpicking your final project if the tension is off. The best tension will vary significantly between different fabrics and elastics, even of the same composition or type.

Have you read our Ultimate Guide To Sewing Needles post yet?

How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

Method 1 : The 2-step method

This method is perfect for beginners as it secures the elastic and fabric in place before fully attaching the Fold Over Elastic. This means there is less chance of the elastic or fabric slipping out of place.

The disadvantage of this method however, is that you can see the initial line of stitching from the wrong side of the garment once complete. 

  1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine. 
fold over elastic method 1 step 1

 

2. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

This stitch line will only be visible from the wrong side of your finished garment, but secures the elastic in place on the back side of the fabric.

fold over elastic method 1 step 2

 

  1. Carefully trim away the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
  2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place. 
fold over elastic method 1 step 4

 

  1. Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch.
fold over elastic method 1 step 5

 

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Method 2 : The 1-step method

This method creates the perfect enclosed edge, with a single line of stitching so it’s neater BUT it requires a little more patience and more pins.

  1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic.

Line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place.

To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine. 

2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

fold over elastic method 2 step 2

 

  1. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic. 
fold over elastic method 2 step 3

Method 3: The 1 step method (with a little help!)

This is the same method as above, but with a little additional help that does not show on the final garment.

  1. Apply an adhesive, such as Quilters Tape,  Wundaweb or a regular glue pen (do not use runny glue or PVA) along the edge of the WS of the fabric. If the adhesive is wider than you FOE you can just trim it (or clean your iron after if you get in to trouble here!)
  2. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic & line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Press in place so the adhesive sticks to the back of the fabric and the Fold Over Elastic. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine. 
  3. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
  4. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic. 

Don’t worry about the garment edge being stiff, as both of these adhesives will dissolve after the first wash.

Method 4: The 2 step method (with removable basting stitch)

This is the same method as method 1, but with a basting stitch that can be removed easily.

  1. Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place if required. Hand stitch/baste in place by hand, using long, fairly loose stitches. Only secure with a knot at one end – this allows for easier removal.
Fold over elastic hand baste method 1
How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 2

2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

 

How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 3
How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 4

3. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic. 

4. Flip over the elastic, and gently pull the basting stitch out of the fabric and elastic. If it is stuck, gently use a seam ripper or small pair of scissors to remove it.

Sewing Fold Over Elastic in the round

Sometimes you won’t be able to apply the Fold Over Elastic to a flat edge, where the seam is sewn after to join the two pieces. You will need to apply the Fold Over Elastic in the round on some patterns, on armholes, necklines and even some waistlines. 

To do this, you need to sew together the ends of the Fold Over Elastic before you apply it to your garment. 

There are two main methods;

 

Method 1 – the straight join

Simply sew across the ends of the Fold Over Elastic, once cut to the desired length, then pin and sew it to the rounded edge. You can use any of the above methods to apply it in one or two steps, but we recommend trimming away the excess fabric if using the two step method. 

Method 2 – the mitred join

A mitred or bias join is where the two ends of the Fold Over Elastic cross at a 90 degree angle instead of aligning as above. This allows you to ease the Fold Over Elastic into the round a little easier as there is ease on the bias as well as the stretch. You cross over the ends of the Fold Over Elastic at a 90 degree angle, then sew from point to point where the top end crosses the bottom end. Trim excess bulk from the seam and then apply as above.

 

We hope you found this product guide helpful. Drop us a message with any comments or questions you have!

 


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How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

Have you ever wondered if you can repair bra hooks when they get mangled in the wash? Or how you can save a bra that’s perfectly fine, but needs its bra clasp replacing? Keep reading and we’ll give you instructions on how you can quickly & easily complete a bra hook repair.

In this post you’ll find a full colour tutorial on how you can replace a bra back – it’s really not that tricky either. Yay!

This is the first post in our new Care & Repair Series…. we hope you find the series useful

How to repair bra hooks: A tutorial


(more…)

Make A Quick and Easy Valentine’s Decoration

Make A Quick and Easy Valentine’s Decoration

Do you want to make a quick and easy Valentine’s decoration?

You’re in luck! This is a super simple project you can whip up in a flash and is perfect for spreading the love this Valentine’s Day & we think the heart garland will look great in your home.

Read on for step-by-step instructions on how to make this quick and easy Valentine’s Day felt garland. You only need handful of a few basic supplies!

 

Make a quick and easy valentine's decoration

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Love is in the air! And if you’re running out of time to make your home feel more aligned to love then this super simple Valentine’s day garland might be just the ticket

 

For This Quick and Easy Valentine’s Decoration You Will Need:

2 x 30cm squares of felt (we used white and red)

2m of 50mm Giant pom poms (we used Raspberry)

4 m Wool

Sewing thread

30cm ribbon

A Ruler

Pencil

Sewing needle

Sewing machine (or hand sewing)

Sewing pins or clips

New to working with felt fabric? Check out our Felt Fabric Guide for info and 11 sewing tips!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Making the felt hearts

(complete each step on one felt square at a time)

Step 1:

On the felt square draw lines the length of the square every 2.5cm. This will create 12 drawn stripes.

Step 2:

With the stripes running from side to side, fold the square in half as though closing a book matching the stripes. Pin or clip together the long edge.

Step 3:

Sew along the folded edge, 5mm from the edge.

Sew 5mm from the folded edge

Step 4:

Remove the clips from the side not sewn & open the felt like a book. Folding the felt back on itself, bring the two open edges together. The sewn seam should be on the inside – this will make a heart shape. Do not squash!

Valentines decoration tutorial 2

Step 5:

Check the stripes line up again. Pin or clip the 2 layers together and sew.


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Step 6:

Holding the 2 layers of fabric firmly together cut along the drawn lines through both layers of felt. This will form 12 hearts per felt square.

Valentines decoration tutorial sewing tutorial

Threading the garland

Step 1:

Place the threaded needle through the centre of a pom pom and guide it along the wool. Stop 20cm before the end.

Step 2:

Thread the needle through the outer layer of a heart approx. 7.5cm from the bottom & central to the width of the heart.

Felt heart sewing tutorial

 

Step 3:

Ease the heart along the wool, stopping at the pom pom. Spread out the felt layers and a heart shape will form. Spend a little time shaping the heart. Repeat steps 3 to 7 alternating red and white hearts until all the hearts and pom poms are used up.

Step 4:

Remove the needle from the end of the wool and the garland is ready to hang.

Make a quick and easy Valentine's day decoration

All done! This project is super easy and fun making it perfect to do with a partner, friend or even a little one!

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and it brings you some joy making this quick and easy Valentine’s Decoration!


Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials!

What is Manilla Pattern Card?

What is Manilla Pattern Card?

Ever heard of manilla pattern card and wondered what it is, and how it’s used in the sewing industry?

This special card is used extensively by industry professionals, pattern cutters, dressmakers & couture houses alike. It is specifically manufactured for making dressmaking pattern pieces and pattern cutting blocks more durable.

But why leave this amazing product for the professionals to benefit from when the home sewist can find so many uses for it?!

If you have a “Tried & Tested” dressmaking pattern you might want to consider investing in some Manila pattern card to preserve the life of your perfect pattern pieces, as well as making them easier for you to trace around.

If you are pattern cutting at home or tracing standard blocks, using this card means they can your pattern pieces be used over and again as a starting point for all basic garments.

Although we are focussing on dressmaking patterns here, this versatile card can be used for any of your sewing patterns… Think bag patterns, pouch patterns, bib patterns toy patterns… In fact, ANY pattern that you find yourself using time and time again would benefit from being traced on to this card.

In this guide we’ll not only give you the low down about this Pro-Product, but we’ll also walk you through two ways you can trace off and preserve one of your beloved patterns on to this useful card.

What is Manilla Pattern Making Card?

Used in garment making and pattern cutting, this card is thick & weighty enough to lay flat when cutting patterns. No pins are needed and minimal pattern weights are required, so it saves time in the long run.

Even though it’s durable, this card is also thin & lightweight enough to cut, fold, roll and store easily at home.

It is made by gluing 2 sheets of manilla card together once manufactured. This gives the card a smooth, firm and hard wearing surface and a clean tracing edge on pattern pieces & blocks.

What are the benefits of using pattern template card?

    • Tracing patterns on to manilla card will preserve the longevity of your sewing patterns that can get easily damaged through repeated use

    • Save time when tracing or cutting patterns as pins are not required

    • You get a sharp edge on your pattern piece to trace around making it easier with a rotary cutter or fabric pen

How to preserve a dressmaking pattern

How to preserve a dressmaking pattern

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

You Will Need:

New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post

How to Transfer a Pattern On To Pattern Card

Method 1: Use Pattern Weights

 

This method is particularly useful for preserving basic core pattern blocks, that will be traced around many times

1) Cut out your pattern piece on to pattern tracing paper, including any marks, dots and notches. Swedish Tracing Paper is ideal to use here

2) Lay the pattern piece flat on top of the card, using pattern weights. It needs to be completely flat so you may want to press it before proceeding.

3) Trace around all edges and markings of your pattern piece, using a long ruler or french curve to ensure you are creating accurate lines.

5) Remove the pattern piece, and cut around your new card pattern. Transfer any markings, such as notches and dots, using an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

Have you seen our Swedish Tracing Paper Guide? It’s pattern paper you can sew! Check out this post for more info

6) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

Or you can trace around them to quickly create markings for your basic block on paper, which can then be adapted to make a new pattern design.

Use a hole punch to create a hole in the pattern piece, and you can store them on thread, string or a wire hook to hang them on a rail.

Method 2: use Glue

 

In this method you glue your pattern piece to the card and then cut round the edge. All of your pattern markings will already be visible for the original pattern piece

1) Using a glue stick (ideally a fairly ‘dry’ glue that isn’t too wet and won’t cause your pattern to wrinkle) or a spray adhesive stick your paper pattern to the pattern card.

You can either cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet, or do it piece by piece. You will get a neater result sticking the pattern down as a full sheet. 

Cut out and stick down the entire pattern sheet

2) Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots. Use an awl to create holes for dots or things like dart points, and snips or a pattern notcher for notches. 

Cut out the pattern pieces from your card and transfer any markings, such as notches and dots.

3) Your card pattern pieces can now be used with pattern weights and a rotary cutter to directly cut out your fabric.

And you’re done!

We hope your found this product guide and tutorial on how to preserve a pattern on manilla card helpful


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What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?

What is Swedish Tracing Paper and How Do You Use It?

Swedish Tracing Paper is a type of dressmaking pattern tracing paper that is fairly translucent, drapeable and best of all – it’s pattern paper that is sewable! This makes it an incredible choice for making muslins or toiles whilst dressmaking.

In this guide we’re going to talk you through the product, as well as offer a tutorial on how to use this amazing dressmaking pattern paper & how using it can save you both time AND fabric!

What is Swedish Tracing Paper?

 

Unlike conventional pattern drafting paper that can tear or crumple easily, Swedish tracing paper can be used to

  • Trace dressmaking patterns
  • Alter patterns
  • Sew pattern pieces traced on to Swedish Tracing Paper together to make a muslin & get an idea of fit
  • Easily mark pattern alterations on to

It’s super useful and will save you time and fabric! You could easily skip making a muslin or toile from Calico fabric and use Swedish Tracing Paper instead.

New to dressmaking? Why not check out our Beginner’s Guide to Reading Dressmaking Patterns Post

What is Swedish Tracing Paper made from?

Swedish tracing paper is made from eco-friendly abaca fibres, making it compostable & environmentally friendly. The tightly packed, jumbled fibres make it more tear-resistant than regular pattern paper yet it’s still translucent enough to see through for tracing . 

You can sew Swedish tracing paper in the same way you would sew regular ‘muslin’ fabrics using a universal needle and thread.

You can baste your traced pattern pieces together with a long stitch on your sewing machine. Once sewn you can easily mark any fit alterations on your pattern pieces in pencil. After that you can unpick the seams to adjust and retrace the pattern pieces!

 

What is Swedish Tracing Paper

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

How to use Swedish Tracing Paper to trace a pattern

You Will Need:

Make it even easier with…

1. First, lay the pattern pieces you want to trace on a flat surface.

You may wish to dry iron them first so they lay completely flat for the most accurate trace.

Place your Swedish Tracing Paper on top.

You do not need to use a light box or a window to trace through as Swedish Tracing Paper is translucent enough to see even fairly fine lines through. 

2. You can use pattern weights or pins to hold the tracing paper over the pattern pieces as it can have a tendency to curl away slightly.

If you find your tracing paper gets a little crumpled or creased, iron it on a silk or cool setting and a pressing cloth. 

3. To trace off a master copy of any pattern simply trace over your desired sizes, markings & labels on your pattern pieces.

Swedish tracing paper is easy to mark with pencil, pen or even chalk, but pencil is easiest to remark and remove if you make a mistake.

4. Next, cut around the edge of your pattern with paper scissors and mark with your awl all the markings (eg circle markings for bust points) & a pattern notcher for the notches, if you have one.

5. Either use your traced pattern straight away, or sew together using a basting stitch.

Once basted you can then try on your pattern for size!

Mark any adjustments you need to make & alter the pattern piece as required.

Retrace the pattern piece to try again.  

6. You can use the pattern pieces you create from Swedish tracing paper as you would normal paper pattern pieces

Then, simply pin or use pattern weights when cutting out, but they are much more durable in use. For those of us who find the perfect pattern we want to make a time & time again – no more pin marked and destroyed paper pattern pieces!

Sewing and Handling Tips

 

  • Needle – Universal machine needles work well for running a simple tacking stitch
  • Thread – A polyester thread works best for creating muslins, as it does not snap easily and is smooth for easy removal.
  • Sewing – Use a long, basting stitch length.

 

We hope you found this product guide helpful…. Do let us know what you thought in the comments – I’d love to hear from you!

How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

How To Make Your Own Pyjamas: Part 2

Make your own Pyjama Bottoms Tutorial Part 2 Banner

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Hello Seam-Stars! Thanks for joining me again for the second post in our “Make your own Pyjama Bottoms” series

Yesterday’s post gave you instructions on how to make your pyjama bottom pattern. If you’ve not done that yet – you need to hop over and make your pattern pieces – otherwise this post won’t make any sense at all!

Don’t be daunted… there are videos and everything!

In this post we’re going to talk about the fabrics you can use to make your own pyjama bottoms, as well as a sewing tutorial on how to sew them up once you have created your pattern

 

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

Supplies you will need:

 

Sewing Kit You Will Need:

Choosing fabric to make pyjama bottoms

 

You can use a number of different fabrics to make PJs… In our sewing tutorial we’ve used flannel fabric – and for good reason… It’s a perfect fabric choice! But not the only one…

Firstly, think about the fabric weight you’d like – you can both use lightweight or slightly heavier weight fabrics when making pyjamas – the season will determine the best choice for your garment.

We would definitely recommend natural, breathable fabrics over manmade fabrics for PJS. The exception here is manmade fleece which would be a good choice in very cold weather.

 

Choosing fabric to make pyjamas
Here are our top picks for fabrics suitable for pyjamas

 

  1. Flannel fabric: We LOVE flannel fabric for making pyjamas… It would be our first choice. It’s soft, warm, cosy, an easy sew & breathable – perfect for PJs! If you’re not really sure what flannel fabric is then check out our Fabric Guide To Flannel for the full low down
  2. Quilting cotton: There’s a mind boggling choice of funky designs available in quilting cotton so you can make a garment that’s really bespoke & individual. It’s easy & stable to sew, as well as being breathable. The only downer might be the drape with some quilt cottons – some brands can be a little stiff.
  3. Jersey – Really comfy for PJ bottoms as they stretch when you do… if you know what I mean 😉 Natural fibre jersey is the best choice. Stretch fabric does require a little special handling and a stretch or ballpoint needle is required.
  4. Cotton lawn : Cotton lawn would make a great fabric choice for PJs – it’s lighter weight than regular quilting cotton & better suited for summer PJs. Soft, stable, better drape & breathable. Read our Guide To Cotton Lawn for more info about this fave fabric.
  5. Viscose: if you’re after something that has loads of drape & will result in a floaty pair of PJs then viscose is a good choice BUT viscose is rather slippery to sew. If you’re a beginner Seam-Star you would be best off trying one of the other fabric choices first to save swear words. Read our viscose tips and you can decide if it’s for you…
  6. Fleece: The season has to be right for fleece fabric pyjamas. Most (but not all) fleece is made from polyester and if you wear fleece in bed when it’s too warm you’re going to end up “glowing” in your new bottoms! Read all about fleece fabric here

DisclaimerA note on sleepwear for children – We don’t advise making children’s nightwear, unless you source specially treated, fire resistant textiles. Many fabrics do not meet the fire retardancy requirements to be safe for children’s nightwear required under UK law

So once you’ve decided what fabric you’d like, you need to make sure you have all the supplies!

Sewing your pyjama bottoms

Important Notes:

  • 1cm /  ⅜” seam allowance throughout, unless directed.
  • Prepare your fabrics as per manufacturer’s care advice.
  • For steps using machine sewing, straight stitch, backstitching at the start & end using stitch length 2.5 unless otherwise stated.
  • We have used an overlocker to finish the seams & prevent fraying, but you can refer to this post if you do not have an overlocker for alternative seam finishing methods.
  • RST = Right Sides Together.
  • WST = Wrong Sides Together.
  • Read through the instructions fully before starting.

Cutting Your fabrics & notions

Cut out your prepared paper pattern, including the seam allowances.

You may wish to transfer the paper pattern to manilla template card for easier tracing or if you think you will make multiple pairs of pyjamas.

Alternatively trace the final pattern pieces more neatly & boldly on a fresh piece of pattern paper if your original pattern is a little scruffy.

Cutting Out:

From The Flannel Fabric Cut: 

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser fronts from your prepared pattern

1 x Mirrored Pair of trouser backs from your prepared pattern

1 x Length of elastic that fits your waist measurement

Sewing together the pyjama bottoms

  1. Place one front leg & one back leg RST . Pin down the long outer edge & sew. Overlock/ seam finish as desired (check out our post here for more info on seam finishing without an overlocker).
Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

2. Then, with RST, pin down the lower inner leg, not including the crotch & sew this together. Overlock/finish as desired.

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

You should now have two legs sewn at the side seams

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms

3. Line up the trousers along the crotch RST. Match the centre seams and pin in place all along the crotch seam.

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4. Sew along the crotch seam, and overlock/finish as desired.

5. Press up the hem allowance first 0.5cm, then 1.5cm

Press up the hem allowance

6. Hem by hand or by machine using a straight stitch. Repeat for both legs.

7. Press the waistband casing over by 0.5cm, then 2.5cm

Press the waistband casing over by 0.5cm then 2.5cm

 

8. Pin and stitch in place, leaving a 5cm gap to insert your elastic.

9. Insert your elastic, guiding it using the safety pin secured to one end.

Insert your elastic

 

10. Zig zag stitch the two ends of the elastic together, and slip this joined end into the elastic casing.

11. Sew the remainder of the casing channel closed, being careful not to catch the elastic.

12. If you want to add a decorative bow, cut a length of ribbon approximately 60/70cm long. Fold over the ends and stitch in place.

13. Mark the midpoint. Pin this to the centre front seam on your waistband. Stitch in place.

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms Step 13 - Mark the midpoint

14. Tie in a bow!

 

Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms Step 14 - Tie in a bow

And you’re finished, well done!

If you make a pair of trousers please let us know if the comments!


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Make Your Own Pyjama Bottoms Pin