What is Fusible Woven Interfacing and How To Use It

by Kellie Rose | Mar 19, 2021 | Fabric Guides, Fabric Information Guide, Interfacing and Interlining, Product Guides, Tutorials

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

You have probably noticed our slight obsession with fusible woven interfacing, we use it in lots of our tutorial projects. But it’s easy to see why: check out the ‘spring’ in the fabrics in the photo above – the fabric with interlining sits higher and rolls into a smoother curve.

In this guide, we’re going to talk you through the benefits of woven interfacing and why we love it SO much, give you some project inspiration and walk you through the correct way to apply woven interlining to your fabrics.

What is Fusible Woven Interfacing?

Fusible woven interfacing is actually a “normal” piece of fabric with warp & weft threads that are woven together in the traditional way. A layer of adhesive glue is applied to one side which will adhere to other fabric once an iron is applied.

Don’t know your warp from your weft? Check out our Beginner’s Guide to Fabric Basic Post

Woven interfacing (or interlining) is a great way to give your projects a little more structure, making fabrics easier to work with and it’s super simple to apply. Medium weights are great for quilting cottons in projects like cushions; they will sit better but still feel “squishably” soft and it can help non-padded little bags and pencil cases hold their shape.

Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.

The benefits of using woven interfacing

Elevates quilt cotton weight fabric to a canvas weight fabric
Negates the need for a lining in some projects – saves you money & time!
The interlining fabric is made of natural cotton fibres rather than polyester (plastic) so it’s more eco-friendly
It’s breathable as it’s a natural fibre
It adds structure
It adds a luxury feel to your project
Machine washable up to 60 degrees
Helps reduce the need for ironing on some projects as it retains shape
Works with light to medium weight fabrics (the fabric must withstand being ironed at heat setting 3)
Gives fabrics a heavier feel
Reduces drape
Excellent for adding body to quilt cottons to be used in bag making or home dec projects

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In-house at Plush Addict we LOVE woven interfacing for bag making, zipper pouches & cushion covers. It gives a really professional finish to your projects.

Using this interfacing for cushion covers can negate the need for a lining so it saves fabric and makes it easier – especially if you are adding a zipper! It’s also great to use for external pockets – again no lining is required!

Check out this easy reading cushion tutorial to see what we mean

Project ideas for using Woven Interfacing

Projects we’ve used this amazing product in are:

15 Minute Upcycled Fabric Tray Tutorial

How to: Make An Easy Reading Cushion Tutorial

15 Minute Upcycled Fabric Sew A Make-Up Bag: Free Pattern and Tutorial

5 Minute Key Fob Tutorial

blog-banner-tutorial_-toy-storage-basket-and-play-mat-tutorial

Toy Storage Basket and Play Mat Sewing Tutorial

copy-of-social-facebook_twitter-silk-roads-bedding

Free DIY Toddler/Cot Bed Duvet Cover Tutorial

Christmas Bow Cushion Tutorial

A note on using woven interfacing in dressmaking projects

The general rule of thumb regarding using any kind of interfacing in dressmaking is that the interfacing should not be heavier than your fashion fabric. Woven interfacing is great when sewing coats, shirts etc, but it as it does reduce the drape of your fashion fabric it’s not best suited for times you wish your fabric to have a good drape.

How to apply fusible woven interfacing

You will need:

Fusible woven interfacing
Medium to lightweight fabric (quilting cottons are ideal)

We used:

Important notes

Pre-wash your fabrics (not the interfacing)
Test interlining on a 2″ test square of the fabric to check suitability

Method

1. Cut your fabric: Fabrics can be cut to size/ shape before or after applying interfacing.

2. Smooth out the interlining adhesive side up (it feels slightly rough). Lay the fabric on top right side up with the grain lines aligned.

3. Cut the interfacing to the same size as the piece of fabric.

4. Place the fabric right side down on an ironing board.

5. Smooth the interfacing on top of the fabric, coated side down. Trim any interlining that exceeds the size of the fabric to prevent damage to the ironing surface, or lay on some scrap calico/ fabric

6. Cover with a smooth surfaced cloth; a tea towel or spare cotton are ideal.

7. Lightly dampen the cover using the iron’s spray setting.

8. Adjust the iron to heat setting 3 – cotton, no steam.

9. Starting at one corner work the iron across the cover to lightly adhere the materials together, smoothing out any lumps or ridges as the iron moves across.

10. Lift the cover and check for any bumps. The fabric and interfacing may need peeling apart a little. Recover and lightly press.

11. Once the interfacing is smooth, dampen the cover again.

12. Press, spending 12 seconds on each area to achieve good adhesion.

13. Place the coated fabric somewhere flat to cool fully and set the adhesive.

And you’re done!

(Grab a cheeky 10% discount off your next Fusible Woven Interfacing purchase with WOVEN10 One time use per customer.)

Want to try woven interning in the wild? Here are some interlining projects you could try:

How to sew a piped cushion

We hope you found this tutorial useful!

Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂

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Upcycled Denim Bag Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | Mar 16, 2021 | Denim, My Makes, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

This post will be updated soon, please check back shortly

Canvas Gardening Apron Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | Feb 27, 2021 | Canvas, Project Ideas, Tutorials

Gardening can be a muddy business so let’s bring a splash of colour to the potting shed with this apron.

This sturdy companion, with a trio of generously sized pockets and easy release belt, will keep tools on hand and provide a safe space for harvested goodies.

We’ve also added some complementary accessories with wrist straps; they are the work of moments and a super handy for those most used tools.

Get comfortable sewing with canvas and learn how to sew mitred corners by making this project.

If you would like some tips on sewing canvas fabric then check out our Guide To Canvas Fabric over here

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Seam-Star

You Will Need:

For the apron:

Apron: 50cm square Cotton canvas
Pocket: 53x29cm Cotton canvas
Thread
Belt: 1 metre 38mm Polypropylene webbing
Buckle: 40mm Delrin buckle

Per wrist strap:

1 Keyring fob/ split ring
40cm 25mm Polypropylene webbing

We Used:

Apron:

Wrist strap:

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 1: Cut your fabrics

Cut out the following using the measurements above:

1 apron piece

1 pocket piece*

For fabrics with a directional pattern, please note that the 29cm measurement will run top to bottom on the finished apron.

* For colour blocked pockets: cut 2 side pocket pieces 15.5x29cm and a middle pocket piece 26x29cm. Join using a 1cm seam allowance.

Add the Ribbon Detail

Step 1: Make marks on the central pocket piece 10cm and 15cm from the bottom right corner working along the bottom edge (26cm) and up the side (29cm).

Draw diagonal lines joining the 10cm and 15cm points

Pin the wider ribbon along the 15cm line and the narrower along the 10cm line.

Sew the ribbon in place then trim the ends so they align with the edge of the pocket piece.

Step 2: Assemble the pocket

Align one of the side pocket pieces with one side of the central pocket piece and pin.

Repeat with the other side pocket piece then sew them both with a 1cm seam allowance.

Tidy the seam allowance; zig zag stitch or overlocking are ideal.

Mitre the corners

The following steps apply to the bottom 2 corners (3 sides) of the apron piece and all 4 corners of the pocket piece:

Step 3: With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side and press.

Step 4: Fold the raw edges under to the crease and press forming a 1cm border.

Step 5: Starting at one corner open out the 2cm hem on both sides, keeping the 1cm creases folded.

Step 6: Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the napkin.

Step 7: Finger press along the crease.

Step 8: Unfold the corner and mark out the fold line.

Step 9: Fold the corner in half bringing the 2 right sides together.

Step 10: Pin and sew along the marked line.

Step 11: Trim the seam allowance to 3mm and clip the end.

Step 12: Turn out the corner, use a turner to shape the point.

Step 13: On the apron, press then sew all the borders with a 1cm seam allowance, on the pocket only sew the top border.

Step 14: Sew the apron

Fold over to the back and press the top 1cm of fabric on the apron piece.

Step 15: Fold over another 4.5cm and press.

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Step 16: Sew a line of stitching along the bottom edge to form the belt casing.

Step 17: Add the pocket

On the pocket piece, press pairs of 1cm wide concertina folds 10cm from each short edge of the pocket piece.

Step 18: Fold the apron and pocket pieces in half and hand press along the creases.

Step 19: Measure and mark a line 4cm up from the bottom of the apron.

Step 20: Align the bottom of pocket piece with the 4cm line matching up the 2 central creases.

Step 21: Position and pin the concertina folds so the centre of them is 13.5cm from the outer edge of the apron.

Step 22: Sew 2 lines of stitching, 5mm apart, along the centre of the concertina folds.

Step 23: Position and pin the edge of the side pockets 3.5cm from the edge of the apron.

Step 24: Sew 2 lines of stitching,1cm apart, along the edge of the side pockets.

Step 25: Sew 2 lines of stitching, 1cm apart, along the bottom edge of the pocket piece. Ensuring the folds are sewn in place.

Step 26: Finishing touches

Thread the webbing through the belt casing by folding the webbing lengthways.

Step 27: Release the Delrin buckle and add a piece to each end of the webbing. Secure the female end with 2 lines of stitching.

Step 28: The wrist strap

Cut and seal a 40cm length of 25mm webbing.

Step 29: Align the 2 ends and fold the webbing in half.

Step 30: Insert the ends into the fob clasp and press with keyring pliers.

And tadaaah! All finished 🙂

Well done seam-star!

Want to follow along with printed instructions instead? We’ve got you covered!

Click the button below to download this step-by-step printable tutorial.

DOWNLOAD PRINTABLE

Don’t forget to share your finished makes with us – tag us @PlushAddict as we LOVE seeing your projects!

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials.

A Fabric Guide: Canvas

by Kellie Rose | Feb 26, 2021 | Canvas, Fabric Guides, Product Guides, Tutorials

Do you have questions about canvas fabric? Is it Canvas, Canevas or Cannapaceus?

We can just about pronounce cannapaceus without getting confuddled!

For ease (and mental overload) let’s stick with canvas.

So What Is Canvas Fabric?

Canvas is a durable cotton fabric with a tight, plain weave and a 2 ply yarn.

It sometimes feels a little rough to touch because of the fibrous parts of the cotton, linen, flax or hemp plants that are used to form the yarn and the resulting thread isn’t usually combed.

We recommend giving your hands a good moisture after you’re done sewing if your project is heavy on canvas fabric!

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

Grab 10% OFF on Canvas fabric with our discount code!

CANVAS-SAVING-10

Use the code above at checkout for 10% off.

A Little History Of Canvas Fabric

While the earliest known evidence of canvas comes from ancient India around 1500 B.C. The name came later when production spread to Europe in the eighth century.

The word ‘canvas’ is from the old French canevas, which may have roots in the Latin ‘cannapaceus’, meaning “made of hemp”. (did you skip over cannapaceus reading this in your head?!)

Originally popular with sailmakers due to its natural resistance to water; popularity grew in the 16th century when painters found it to be a more versatile surface than wood and plaster (frescoes). Canvas was a cheaper and readily available alternative!

Denim has a similar feel to canvas, though the 2 can be identified by the weave; denim has a twill weave, resulting in quite different properties. Sometimes referred to as ‘duck’, though duck has a tighter weave and slightly heavier feel.

What Is Canvas Used For?

Canvas has many uses in the modern world thanks to how versatile it is! Canvas is a sturdy fabric with little drape so its best suited for projects that need structure.

Canvas gardening apron

Canvas makes a great gardening apron

When planning sewing projects canvas is ideal for:

Upholstery
Seat covers
Window dressing
Bag making
Tote bags
Fabric baskets
Laptop Cases
Aprons
Jackets/ coats
Interlining and lining
Footstools & Pouffes

How To Sew Canvas:

Wondering what needle you need for sewing canvas? Or stitch length? Check out our top tips on sewing canvas :

Thread: Sew all or upholstery
Needle size: 100/16 HJ or 110/18 HJ
Stitch length: 3mm
Presser foot: Standard
Seam finish: Press open and overlock where needed. Flat fell is also a good seam for canvas makes to make your project even more robust
No need to pre wash if project will be dry cleaned
Pre wash canvas to soften it
No need for interfacing – canvas is sturdy enough on it’s own

Canvas bag

Canvas Bag

The manufacturing process uses a lot of chemicals which is a shame as it gives canvas a higher environmental impact, although there are some organic & PVC free options available. It’s still a tricky one for environmentally friendly seam-stars.

That said – taking its environmental impact into account, canvas projects with longevity are a more conscientious choice for the fabric than fast fashion items.

Fun Canvas Facts:

Canvas can be blended with other fibres, it’s not always 100% cotton.
Wet canvas fibres swell, making it naturally resistant to water.
In the 13th century canvas was added to shields, it is believed this was for strength as well as making the surface paintable.
Artists’ canvas are stretched cotton/linen canvas coated in primer (gesso).
A popular footwear brand are iconic for their use of canvas in shoes.
It’s even used for martial arts outfits!

We Hope you found this fabric guide helpful and it gives you some guidance on how to use canvas fabric!

Hop over to the website if you’re in need of some versatile canvas fabric or pin this guide for later

Are there any other fabrics you’d like to see guides for? Let us know in the comments 🙂

Follow Plush Addict on social media and keep an eye out for more tutorials. Please tag us @PlushAddict on your fave social media channel… we’d love to see your makes!

How To: Make A Dribble Bib – Free Pattern And Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | Jan 27, 2021 | Bamboo towelling, Tutorials

One of the most popular posts on my blog has consistently been The Best Fabrics for Dribble Bibs & I've been planning on publishing a bib pattern & tutorial for a while now to compliment that post... In these bibs I chose to use a cotton outer and a bamboo towelling & bamboo velour as backing […]

This post will be updated soon, please check back shortly

15 Minute Napkin With Mitered Corners

by Kellie Rose | Dec 3, 2020 | My Makes, Quilt Fabric, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Here’s how to make a 15 minute napkin with mitered corners. We’re continuing out theme of helping you create a more sustainable Christmas… Fabric napkins are a fabulous step into sustainability & will make your Christmas table look amazing!

With some clever folding, a coordinating runner & some homemade Christmas crackers you will create an incredible focal point for your Christmas feast.

Follow this tutorial & learn how to stitch a mitred corner in just 15 minutes!

And if you just wanna learn how to fold your napkins in to some fancy Christmas trees then scoot down to the bottom of the tutorial for the lowdown…

Check out the Christmas Tree Fold

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

We have also published a tutorial on how to make Reusable Christmas Crackers – check that out here

Make some reusable Christmas crackers!

Want a printable copy of this tutorial? No problem! Request it below & a copy will be sent direct to your in-box

Send ME a printable version

Reusable Christmas Napkin Tutorial

Skill Level: Beginner

To make ONE reusable napkin you will need:

1 x 49cm square of quilting cotton (we used fabrics from the Makower Joy collection)

Co-ordinating thread

Important notes:

1.5 cm seam allowance throughout, unless directed.

For steps using machine sewing, always backstitch at the start & end unless otherwise stated.

Pre-wash your fabrics

1. Cut your fabric

Reusable Christmas Napkin Tutorial Step 1

Cut out a 49cm square of your chosen fabric

2. Press the edges

With the fabric facing wrong side up, turn over 2cm of fabric along each side & press.

Fold the raw edges under to the crease & press again forming a 1cm border around the napkin.

Sewing a mitered corners fabric napkin step 2

3. Mitre The Corners

Sewing mitred corners table napkins step 3

Starting at one corner, open out the 2cm hem on both sides.

Fold over the corner, the creases will have formed a small square. Align the 2 sides of the small square with the two 2cm creases on the underside of the napkin. Finger press along the fold.