Free Peg Bag Pattern & Sewing Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | May 30, 2022 | Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Our "Free Peg Bag Pattern & Sewing Tutorial" provides a detailed guide to crafting a practical and stylish peg bag. Designed for confident beginners, this project takes approximately an hour to complete and results in a 30cm x 30cm bag (excluding the coat hanger). The tutorial includes a free downloadable pattern, a list of required materials—such as 40cm of cotton fabric for both the exterior and lining, 1m of 25mm bias binding, and an optional ODIF Odicoat fabric coating gel for water resistance—and step-by-step instructions. By following this guide, you can create a functional accessory to keep your clothespins organized, making laundry tasks more efficient and enjoyable.

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How to repair a trouser pocket: Care & Repair Series #3

by Kellie Rose | May 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Welcome to post number 3 in our Care & Repair Series! Hand up if you love a pocket?! 🙋‍♀️ Pockets are a complete joy to dressmakers everywhere… but what if your pocket wears out? In this post we’re going to walk you through how to repair a pocket. This method can be used for trousers or skirts.

You can also use this method to repair a pocket in a shop bought garment if the pockets are too small for your needs. The joys of sewing, eh?!

Read on to learn how to repair a pocket… it’s easier than you think. We’ve even got a no sew option for you…

facec-trouser-pocket-replacement-pinterest-pin-1000-c397-1500

Pockets are great for keeping all kinds of useful stuff… from your phone, to loose change, even the occasional biscuit! Because pockets are so well used, they come under huge amounts of wear & tear.

Pocket bags are usually made from a thinner fabric than the outer trousers or skirt and so holes can be commonplace. And instead of outing a garment and sending it to landfill just because your keys are falling through a pocket hole you can learn to replace the pockets instead. It’s a win for the planet!

Soap box alert! When it comes to pockets in girls’ and women’s clothing. As a general rule of thumb, female fashions have sported pockets that are for purely fashion reasons rather than practical ones.

This certainly annoys my daughter who feels the need to fill her pockets with stones and twigs at every given opportunity. So here I am repairing a hole in her jeans pocket but also extending the pocket bags for her.

In this post we’re going to walk you though

How to replace a pocket bag using sewing
How to replace a pocket without sewing
Create larger pocket bags for your garments

Tutorial: How To Replace A Trouser Pocket

Skill level required: Beginner Friendly

Some important notes about replacement pocket products

Replacement pockets come as whole pockets. You can cut them down to the size you require or use them to replace the whole pocket if needed.
We are concentrating on trouser pockets here but the same method, and replacement pockets, can be used to repair pockets in trousers, skirts, jeans, dresses, jackets and more. Just check the pocket sizes against your garment as each one differs.
In this post we are using two different products, a sew-in version and an iron-on version. It is up to you to choose which is the most suitable for your needs.
The sew in pockets are trickier to use and require some sewing knowledge but they will last a very long time.
The iron on pockets are far simpler to use and don’t require any sewing at all but the repair may not last as long as sewn in pockets.
These pockets are are suitable to replace cotton, nylon, or polyester pockets.

You Will Need:

How to replace a pocket : The Sew In Method

Identify where the hole is in your pocket.

- Draw a line in a washable fabric pen just above the damage.
- If the pocket flap is stitched into the side seam, cut along this edge 1cm.
Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

Trim the damaged part of the pocket away along the line you have drawn.

To mark the new pocket:

Lay the replacement pocket underneath the original pocket, lining up the edges.
Make sure the folded edge is lined up with the folded edge of the original pocket and the seamed edge with the side seam.
Allow for as much additional pocket bag as you wish to add.
Pin the two pockets together
Using the fabric marker, trace the edge of the original pocket onto the replacement pocket.

Turn the raw edges outwards and line them up so that the new pocket and original line up.

Stitch along the circumference to join the two pockets together using a 1cm seam allowance.
Finish the raw edges in your preferred way, either pinking, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, or overlocker, to prevent fraying.
Press the seam

Top stitch the side edge back to the side seam of the trousers to finish your mending project.

If you would like to repair your pocket by hand sewing then check out Hemline’s video here

How to replace a pocket : The Iron On Method

Start in the same way as you did with the sew in pocket.

Mark a line above where the damage is and cut along this line.
If your pocket is sewn into the side seam, cut along this edge approx. 1.5cm.

Insert the bottom edge of the pocket into the replacement pocket, making sure the adhesive tape covers the pocket fabric.

Pin it in place.
Using a hot iron and a damp cloth press the adhesive tape pressing firmly

Repeat the pressing on both sides of the pocket making sure to heat all of the tape.

Leave the pocket to cool for 10-20 minutes before moving it, allowing the adhesive to bond properly.

Your pocket repair is complete!

You can also check out Hemline’s video on how to use this product here

We hope you found that helpful! Do let us know how you get on if you repair a pocket

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Washable & Reusable Bin Liner Sewing Tutorial

by Kellie Rose | May 11, 2022 | My Makes, Project Ideas, PUL Projects, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

This post will be updated soon, please check back shortly

How To Use Fold Over Elastic

by Kellie Rose | May 3, 2022 | Haberdashery, Haberdashery Guides, Product Guides, Tutorials

Have you heard about fold over elastic? Ever wondered what this product is, where it can be used and how to apply fold over elastic?

You’re in the right place! In this product guide we’re going to shine a light on all things fold over elastic so grab a cuppa and read on!

In this Fold Over Elastic product guide we will be covering:

What Is Fold Over Elastic
What Is Fold Over Elastic Used for?
How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

What is Fold Over Elastic?

Fold Over Elastic (or ‘FOE’ for short) is a thin, lightweight, flat elastic which has a crease down the centre of its length. The crease makes it easy to fold in half along the length, encasing the seam edge of your pattern piece.

Fold over elastic or FOE - thin lightweight flat elastic with crease down its length

Sometimes fold over elastic has a matte side & a shiny side – the shiny side is the ‘right’ side and the matte side is the ‘wrong’ side.

Fold Over Elastic comes in a wide variety of colours & patterns – we have a great selection of printed options and almost every colour you can imagine!

CHECK OUT OUR FOLD OVER ELASTIC RANGE

Boring Legal Bit: If you follow any tutorial or guidance found in this post, or on this blog, you agree to be bound by our disclaimer which can be viewed here

What is Fold Over Elastic Used for?

Anywhere you need a stretchy binding in a funky colour or print really!

Some popular project ideas for fold over elastic are:

Legs, waistbands and armholes on lingerie, underwear & swimwear
Edge finishes on shorts, vests and other undergarments
Edge finishes on sportswear/activewear
Cloth nappies
Edge finishes on expandable pouches and pockets on bags.
Simple knotted hair ties
Headbands
Face Masks

It can be a nice way to add contrast accents or fun prints to your underwear, sportswear or knit/jersey fabric projects, whilst finishing the raw edges of your seams easily.

It is usually used to finish armholes, leg holes, waistbands and necklines on garments that need a lot of recovery, and that stretch to stay close to the body with movement, like underwear and other undergarments like vests, tights and leggings.

Fold over elastic can also be useful in bag making a lot in bag making too for pockets that would benefit from being taut to the bag like these

Uses of fold over elastic - bag making

From Lovelucie.org

from Treasurie.com

READ OUR 11 TIPS FOR SEWING MESH FABRIC

Fold Over Elastic can be sewn on a regular sewing machine, so no need to be wrestling with an overlocker or any fancy feet or accessories!

Fold Over Elastic has a similar function to bias binding as it completely finishes a raw edge, but fold over elastic can stretch & recover so it keeps the edge close to the body, or it provides a taut edge for pockets on bags etc.

Usually, the narrower the Fold Over Elastic, the more stretch it has, and the wider it is, the less it stretches. You can usually interchange different widths of Fold Over Elastic in your projects, but make sure you double-check you have the right length as differences in stretch means you will require different lengths, and account for the width in your seam allowances.

Preparing and Cutting Fold Over Elastic

Many patterns will call for you to cut your elastic to a specific length, but if no instructions are given, there is an easy way to figure out what length to cut your fold over elastic (or any elastic!) to.

Begin by measuring the lengths of the leg openings, waistband, or other pattern piece you are applying the elastic to.
Check the stretch of your elastic, if it’s really stretchy, you can get away with the elastic being a little shorter. If it’s quite hard to stretch, you will need the elastic to be a little longer.
The general rule is that elastic must be shorter than the length of the edge to which it is being applied to. Deduct 10% from the length of the edge, and this will give you your elastic length. You can also adjust this percentage up or down depending on the stretchiness of your elastic.

e.g : 50cm is the length of the leg opening. 50-5cm =45cm.

45cm is the length of your elastic.

Adjusting your pattern to use Fold Over Elastic

Using Fold Over Elastic on the edge of your garment means that the edge is finished and enclosed at the width it is cut, so no fabric is removed due to a seam allowance, or folding under and hemming. If you want to use Fold Over Elastic on a project that requires a different finish (like regular elastic or picot trim elastic types), you will need to trim away the excess fabric before using the Elastic. Simply take your pattern piece and trim off the seam allowance width on the edges you want to apply the elastic to.

If your pattern needs you to use Fold Over Elastic but you don’t have any to hand, and want to use a different finish on the edge, add the seam allowance or hem desired to the edges where the elastic or your other trim will be applied.

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Sewing and Handling Tips for Fold Over Elastic

Needle – A jersey, stretch or ballpoint needle are the best choices, as these needles slide between the fibres rather than piercing them. You might be ok with a universal needle if that’s all you have – just make sure you test first.
Thread – Try to match the thread you use with the fibre that makes up the elastic. For most types of Fold Over Elastic a strong, polyester thread would work best, and would also help create strong stitches for any stretch or stress on the item you make. All-purpose Polyester thread is a good choice.
Stitch Type – Use either a medium zig zag or a 3 step zig-zag stitch. Set your machine to 2 wide with a stitch length of 2.5 to start then test. This is a good setting to start but stitch lengths/ widths will vary from project to project, so test first to see what works for you.
Sewing – Stretch the elastic a little when sewing to evenly distribute across the unfinished edge.
Sewing – Try to keep a slow steady pace whilst sewing, and avoid pulling the elastic or the fabric through the machine more than you need to. This will help you avoid gathers or puckers as you won’t stretch the fabric whilst sewing.
Sewing – Sew a sample swatch using a square of your final fabric and a length of Fold Over Elastic to help achieve the best tension. Playing around on your machine with a sample means you won’t spend time unpicking your final project if the tension is off. The best tension will vary significantly between different fabrics and elastics, even of the same composition or type.

Have you read our Ultimate Guide To Sewing Needles post yet?

How to Sew Fold Over Elastic

Method 1 : The 2-step method

This method is perfect for beginners as it secures the elastic and fabric in place before fully attaching the Fold Over Elastic. This means there is less chance of the elastic or fabric slipping out of place.

The disadvantage of this method however, is that you can see the initial line of stitching from the wrong side of the garment once complete.

Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.

2. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

This stitch line will only be visible from the wrong side of your finished garment, but secures the elastic in place on the back side of the fabric.

fold over elastic method 1 step 2

Carefully trim away the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place.

Stitch in place using a zig zag stitch.

Method 2 : The 1-step method

This method creates the perfect enclosed edge, with a single line of stitching so it’s neater BUT it requires a little more patience and more pins.

Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic.

Line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place.

To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.

2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

Method 3: The 1 step method (with a little help!)

This is the same method as above, but with a little additional help that does not show on the final garment.

Apply an adhesive, such as Quilters Tape, Wundaweb or a regular glue pen (do not use runny glue or PVA) along the edge of the WS of the fabric. If the adhesive is wider than you FOE you can just trim it (or clean your iron after if you get in to trouble here!)
Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic & line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Press in place so the adhesive sticks to the back of the fabric and the Fold Over Elastic. Pin in place. To prevent gathering, it is best to have a few cm of elastic overhanging at each end to cleanly feed the fabric layers through the machine.
Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.
Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

Don’t worry about the garment edge being stiff, as both of these adhesives will dissolve after the first wash.

Method 4: The 2 step method (with removable basting stitch)

This is the same method as method 1, but with a basting stitch that can be removed easily.

Place your fabric WS (wrong sides) together with your Fold Over Elastic and line up the raw edge of your fabric with the centre crease line. Pin in place if required. Hand stitch/baste in place by hand, using long, fairly loose stitches. Only secure with a knot at one end – this allows for easier removal.

How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 2

2. Fold over the top section of the Fold Over Elastic, pin in place, sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers of Fold Over Elastic.

How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 3

How to attach fold over elastic: Hand Baste Method 4

3. Stitch in place, using a narrow zig-zag stitch length and width of 2mm. If you would rather use a three-step zig-zag, use a width of 3.5 mm to 4 mm and a length of 1 mm to 1.5 mm. – you may want to adjust this based on your individual machine tension, fabric composition and elastic.

4. Flip over the elastic, and gently pull the basting stitch out of the fabric and elastic. If it is stuck, gently use a seam ripper or small pair of scissors to remove it.

Sewing Fold Over Elastic in the round

Sometimes you won’t be able to apply the Fold Over Elastic to a flat edge, where the seam is sewn after to join the two pieces. You will need to apply the Fold Over Elastic in the round on some patterns, on armholes, necklines and even some waistlines.

To do this, you need to sew together the ends of the Fold Over Elastic before you apply it to your garment.

There are two main methods;

Method 1 – the straight join

Simply sew across the ends of the Fold Over Elastic, once cut to the desired length, then pin and sew it to the rounded edge. You can use any of the above methods to apply it in one or two steps, but we recommend trimming away the excess fabric if using the two step method.

fold over elastic straight join method 1

Method 2 – the mitred join

A mitred or bias join is where the two ends of the Fold Over Elastic cross at a 90 degree angle instead of aligning as above. This allows you to ease the Fold Over Elastic into the round a little easier as there is ease on the bias as well as the stretch. You cross over the ends of the Fold Over Elastic at a 90 degree angle, then sew from point to point where the top end crosses the bottom end. Trim excess bulk from the seam and then apply as above.

We hope you found this product guide helpful. Drop us a message with any comments or questions you have!

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Free Tea Cosy Pattern

by Kellie Rose | Mar 23, 2022 | My Makes, Project Ideas, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

clip small V shaped notches in the seam allowance

This post will be updated soon, please check back shortly

How to Repair Bra Hooks: Care & Repair Series #1:

by Kellie Rose | Mar 19, 2022 | Care and Repair, Product Guides, Sustainable Sewing, Tutorials

Have you ever wondered if you can repair bra hooks when they get mangled in the wash? Or how you can save a bra that’s perfectly fine, but needs its bra clasp replacing? Keep reading and we’ll give you instructions on how you can quickly & easily complete a bra hook repair.

In this post you’ll find a full colour tutorial on how you can replace a bra back – it’s really not that tricky either. Yay!

This is the first post in our new Care & Repair Series…. we hope you find the series useful

There’s never been a more important time to look after our belongings and Make Do And Mend

Being able to repair our clothes rather than just replace them is one of the biggest things we can do to contribute to saving our planet right now, and we know so many of our readers are eco-conscience Seam-Stars 💚

We’ll be publishing a series of helpful Care & Repair tutorials this year which will not only benefit your pocket, but also the planet.

We’ll be covering topics such as replacing pockets, mending and patching, replacing zips and more!

But if you’re already a mending whizz and you have some clothes to repair you can check out our really comprehensive care and repair range of products over on the website

Back to the bras!

Bras are a garment that every woman owns & wears almost all the time. This means your bras can suffer a great deal of wear and tear. One of the most common things to break over time on a bra are the fastening hooks.

By repairing your bra hooks on the bras that you already own you can save money AND help reduce waste sent to landfill!

Read on for info on how to replace your damaged bra hooks rather than have to fork out for another expensive bra!

Check our full range of Care & Repair products here

How To Repair Bra Hooks: A Sewing Tutorial

Skill level: Beginner
Approximate sewing time: It’s a super quick fix!

Tips To Consider When Replacing Your Bra Clasp

Make sure to match your replacement hooks with the original hooks in number and size as best you can
Even if only one side of your bra fastening is damaged, make sure you replace both so that the hooks and eyes match up.
The Bra Back replacements come in various different options, 19mm (1 hook), 28mm (2 hooks), 38mm (2 hooks), and 50mm (3 hooks) widths in black, white, and nude. Check out the full range here and select one that matches the bra to be repaired
To select the correct size for your bra, measure the width of the current hook and eye parts of your bra and select the width closest to it.
It is always best to go a little wider than too narrow, unless it means you will be sewing through a hook or eye.
Colour wise, select the colour that best fits the bra. If your bra is a different colour than what is on offer, I suggest selecting the colour which is closest to patterns in the bra, or if it is plain then opt for black if it is a dark colour and white if a pale one

You Will Need:

1 Hemline Replacement Bra Back. We used Hemline Bra Back Replacement: 50mm: Nude

Sewing Equipment You Will Need:

Small embroidery scissors or a Curved Tailors Awl
Tape Measure or ruler
Pins
Stitch ripper
Basic Sewing Kit

How to repair bra hooks

1. Remove the original hooks and eyes on both sides of the bra back.
- You will need to use a Stitch ripper or very fine embroidery scissors to undo the original stitching.
- Be careful not to damage the bra fabric itself.

Repair Bra Hooks Step 1 - remove original hooks

1.2. Take the hook portion of the kit and position it on the right side of the bra back (as you look at it).

– Fold it around the raw end so that the hooks are on the inside of the back and are laying along the edge.
– Pin in place through all layers. If your replacement hook tape is slightly wider than the back of the bra you may wish to hem the edges and turn it through to create a pocket for the bra back instead.
– Here, the hooks are slightly narrower than the bra back. I will show you how to rectify this in a moment.

3. Change the presser foot on your machine to a zipper foot as this will enable you to stitch without the hooks getting in the way of the foot.
1. – Stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to hold them in place.
2. Increase your stitch length to 3-3.5 – don’t worry if the stitches are a little messy.
3. – You may need to use the point of your embroidery scissors or a Curved Tailors Awl to help feed the fabric through your machine as the bra is so small it may not catch on all of the feed dogs. The fabric seams can also be quite bulky.
4. – Be careful not to keep your scissors away from the needle!

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4. Now the hook part is secure, remove the pin.

Repair Bra Hooks Step 3 and Step 4 - Stitch a line of straight stitch

5. Keeping the zipper foot on your machine, select a narrow zig zag stitch. Here, I have changed the stitch width to 2.5mm and stitch length to 0.5mm.
- – Run a line of zigzag stitching along the line of straight stitch and the edge of the hook tape.
- – The satin stitch will cover up the straight stitch

Repair Bra Hooks Step 5 - Run a line of zigzag stitching

1.6. If the back of your bra is slightly wider han the hook tape as with my bra pictured, push the ends of the bra inside the fold of the hook tape with a needle or stitch ripper.

– Use the same zigzag stitch along the edges of the bra back, catching the bra back fabric into the hook tape, and neatening the edges.

1.7. To replace the eye side of the bra fastening you have a couple of choices, depending on your skill level and how you would like to finish the bra repair.

The eye part of the bra fastening comes attached to elastic. If you prefer not to have this elastic you can unpick the zigzag seam holding it as indicated by the point of my scissors in the image below.
If you choose to do this you would attach the eye part to the bra in exactly the same way as with the hooks, only with the eyes facing the right side of the left bra back.

8. You may wish to keep the elastic in. This is a bonus, especially if the original hooks and eyes were damaged due to the bra fitting too tightly.
- – By using the elastic, you are creating more ease in the bra back for a more comfortable fit and also protecting the new hooks and eyes from resulting in similar damage.
- – If you are keeping the elastic in you will need to trim it down to the length that you will need. Add 2cm on to your desired length.

9. Place the left side bra back right side down and lay the raw edge of the elastic over the top, also face down, overlapping by 1cm. Pin in place.

Lay the raw edge of the elastic over the top, 1 cm overlap.

10. Change your machine presser foot back to your universal foot and stitch a line of straight stitch through all layers to secure the eye elastic to the bra back.

1.11. Lay the bra back right side facing down and fold the eye piece back on itself, towards the body of the bra.

Next fold it back on itself again to the outside of the bra, enclosing the raw edges inside the rolled seam. Pin in place.

12. Sew a line of stitching down each long edge of the rolled fabric to create a sort of fell seam.
- – This will be very bulky and challenging to push under the machine foot so you may wish to use the point of your embroidery scissors again, or a Curved Tailors Awl to assist it through, again, being very careful!

Repairing Bra Hooks Step 12 - Create a sort of fell seam

13. Now, fix the hooks and eyes together and your bra repair is complete

Bra Hook Repair step 13 - Fix the hooks and eyes together

And you’re finished, well done!

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